Tue 29 Jul- Chateau of Versailles gardens and grounds

Tue 29 Jul- coffee and chocolate croissant for breakfast, check the Internet for mail, last-minute cruise deals, etc.
We took a short walk next door to the Chateau of Versailles gardens and grounds, and started our visit to the garden. We've been in the chateau before (it's really a palace, well worth a visit), but the gardens were pretty dormant in April. This time the gardens are in bloom with thousands of flowers of all kinds. There are several different garden areas, each with its own design and pattern and mix of flowers and shrubs. Then there are long wide walkways lined with trees, with larger-than-life marble statues every couple of yards with interesting topiary shrubs between them. There are also narrow tree-lined walks so you can walk in the shade any time of day.
We had lunch at the beginning of the Grand Canal, at 'La Petite Venise', an Italian restaurant, so we had linguine with tomato, and 'cavatelli alla norma' (like macaroni with cheese, eggplant and tomato sauce), and a pitcher of red wine for E36.
Then we continued our walk, fed and refreshed. The Grand Canal is huge - it took us several hours to walk around. And since it is + shaped, you have to walk even further, and of course visit the garden at the end of the right side. Many people brought or rented bikes or electric carts, and there are Segways for rent, too. Also many people rented rowboats and were rowing up and down the canal. By the time we finished our walk, we were ready to return to the hotel for a rest. We didn't feel like going out, so we had the foie gras from Manoir Hautegente on wasa crackers and some sparkling Muscat wine.

Mon 28 Jul- PT/INR test; Versailles city, expensive mediocre dinner

Mon 28 Jul- coffee and chocolate croissant for breakfast, check the Internet for mail, last-minute cruise deals, etc. We split a very expensive sandwich and fries, and a E9 ($15) beer at the Westin for a light snack.
Then we checked with the concierge for a nearby test laboratory, and walked to the nearest lab for the PT/INR test that Stan needed. The communication was successful, they knew what was needed, and after a little paperwork and a E11 charge, a 5-minute wait and the blood was drawn. Hopefully the system continues as successfully to deliver the results!
We walked around Versailles, hardly recognizing it from our memories of 15 years ago. It seemed smaller and quieter then. Since it's Monday, many of the shops are closed, but we stopped by for a beer (2 for E7, a much better price, but still not a bargain).
For dinner we had a very expensive service at the Westin: 'exquisite French-inspired cuisine awaits with legendary Chef Gordon Ramsay,　who has recently introduced his first restaurant in France at the legendary Westin Trianon Palace'. So we had one of the least expensive white wines, Chablis 2005 (E28, $44!!); stuffed squid tempura with spicy tomato sauce; 'filet de maigret' with roasted eggplant and vegetables and cucumbre (E29); fine beans (a little plate for E5, that's $7.60 for a few string beans); creme brullee with raspberry sorbet; for a whopping E85. It wouldn't have been so bad if it were a really special meal, but it was just average. Would have been good for maybe E20; but a disappointment for E85. To top it off, they seated us where the hot bright sun was shining in our faces. Needless to say, no tip was left (and they'll not see us again).

Sun 27 Jul- Val de Marne Rose Garden, Versailles, Westin Trianon Palace

http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)

Sun 27 Jul- after breakfast and checking out, we went the city L'Hay les Roses to visit the Val de Marne Rose Garden. It is a huge rose garden with row after row of roses of every kind. Although past the peak season, there were still many beautiful blossoms and a wonderful. We admired the garden for an hour or so, then had lunch there: split 1/2 liter of rose wine (what else in a rose garden?), a 'salad of the day' with many various ingredients; and an Italian salad (tomato, mozzarella cheese and lettuce), then finally cafe for a total of E26.
Then on to Versailles and the Westin Trianon Palace, next to the famous chateau. We relaxed for a while, checked the Internet, then went shopping for a picnic dinner, to have in addition to our 'Chateau de Canon Halbi' apple-pear cider (4% alcohol) and our 'Pate de Campagne Le Campagnard' pate (65% gorges de porc', and 35% 'foie de volaille' from Manoir de Hautegente: lettuce, artichoke hearts, tomatoes, cucumber, avocado, wasa crackers for E14. We had an enjoyable picnic in our room.

Sat 26 Jul- Chateau de Courances

Sat 26 Jul- after a nice included breakfast, worked on credit card statements, and checked cruises.
Lunch at the local brasserie: 2 Italian salads, 1/4 liter red wine, nice salad with avocado, ham, tomato, cheese and lettuce.
It was cloudy but warm at 23-24 C, occasional sprinkle, but we decided to go to one of the highlight gardens, Courances at the Chateau de Courances. It was begun in the 16th Century as a "water garden" - there are 14 springs feeding 17 ponds and pools (some quite large) on 190 acres, with wide grassy fairways extending out from the chateau on the sides and rear. There is also a beautiful Anglo-Japanese garden, started around 1914, and very attractive (although according to Kiyomi, not a true Japanese garden, but very nice anyway, especially the clever use of local native plants.)
Returning to the hotel around 6 pm, we took a needed rest after the long walk around the Courances Gardens. Then went out for beer, salmon with green peas (Kiyomi) and dessert 'moelleux chocolat coeur fondant groseille' (Stan).

Fri 25 Jul- Vaux le Vicomte, chateau de Fontainebleau

Fri 25 Jul- after a nice included breakfast, we left for one of the highlight gardens, the Vaux le Vicomte, designed by Andre Le Notre as N. Fouquet's estate. He was Lord high treasurer for Louis XIV until Louis got jealous and put Fouquet in prison for life and took his inspiration to build Versailles. We walked the grounds for two and a half hours, at least 3 km, from the chateau around the Grand Canal up the statue of Hercules and then back to have lunch in the Restaurant L'Ecureuil on the chateau's grounds: two perfect salads, just what we wanted, and two cold beers, which really hit the spot, as it was a partly cloudy day and a warm 26-27 C.
After that, we headed to the famous chateau de Fontainebleau, occupied by the kings of France for 800 years, and also by Napoleon. We saw the White Horse Courtyard, the Oval Courtyard, the Fountain Courtyard, walked by the English Garden, and sat in the shade admiring the huge Grand Parterre, the largest in Europe, with 45,000 plants blooming in the encircling flower beds. We didn't have the energy to walk around it, though. The Forest of Fontainbleau seems to surround the chateau and town for miles around; one entrance is just outside our hotel, 7 km from the chateau.
We returned to the hotel for a much-need rest, then went out for a light dinner: beers, a salad for Kiyomi, and a chocolate dessert 'moelleux chocolat coeur fondant groseille' for Stan (YUM!). We're still waiting for the GCT cruise to go on sale, hoping it will be before we leave on the Viking cruise.

Thu 24 Jul- 'L'Hostellerie de La Dague' in Barbizon

Thu 24 Jul- after a nice continental breakfast, we packed and departed for our next hotel. We stopped in Etapes for lunch at the 'Auberge de France'; we had beers and the hors d'ouvres buffet, a nice selection of different foods, lots of seafood choices that were fresh and tasty, and lots of vegetables with the selections.
We continued to our hotel, 'L'Hostellerie de La Dague' in Barbizon, just south of Paris very near Chateau Fontainebleau. We were disappointed in the hotel, for the price we paid we expected much more. There wasn't even an elevator, so luggage became an issue. Still, the location is very good, near the gardens we'll visit, and Barbizon is an arts town, with many galleries and several museums, including Rousseau and Millet, lots of restaurants, hotels, cafes and other shops, and the other end of town begins the Forest of Fontainebleau Chateau.

Wed 23 Jul- 'Les Jardins de la Mansioniere', Chateau Villeray

Wed 23 Jul- after coffee, we left for our next destination. On the way, we stopped by 'Saint Ceneri le Gerei' for lunch at 'Auberge de la Vallee': 2 beers, 'terrine de saumen', and 'terrine St. Jacques' (a seafood/shellfish terrine).
We visited a nearby garden, 'Les Jardins de la Mansioniere', which had about 12 sections with different themes appealing to the imagination, and many resting spots where you could enjoy the smell of the flowers, the hum of the insects, the chirping of the birds and the rustling of the wind in the trees. It was pleasant walking around the quiet garden, which we had almost to ourselves.
Then we continued to the Chateau Villeray, in a cute little village. There were lots of horses and riders at the chateau, apparently it is also a riding academy. We took a walk on several trails through the extensive property, enjoying the warm 27 C sunny weather.
We had dinner at the chateau in the dining terrace beside the river that powered the old mill. We had the small gourmet course: 'casssolette d'escargots, caviar d'aubergine et son beurre d'ail'; 'barette grillee, ses frites a l'ancienne et puree de petit pois'; 'tartare de bar et saumon fume accompagne d'une terrine de jeune legumes et son chutney de tomate'; 'poisson du jour, pommes de vapeur et pois gourmet'; strawberry shortcake with vanilla ice cream; apple crumble. It was very enjoyable beside the stream with the setting sun and warm evening; and the food was delicious, and they also served the little hors d'ouvres before and between courses.

Tue 22 Jul- Chateau Vendeuvre, 'Parc et Jardins du Chateau de Canon'

Tue 22 Jul- after just coffee for breakfast, we left for the Chateau Vendeuvre [http://www.vendeuvre.com] which was unknown to the GPS but well indicated by signs. On the way had lunch in 'Saint Pierre sur Dives' at a restaurant recommended by the GPS, 'Les Agriculteurs': 2 specials, a giant salad for Kiyomi and chicken with special sauce and vegetables (we split the dishes half-half) and a half-bottle 'Touraine 2007 Gamay' red wine; then 'creme brullee' and 'Marquise au chocolat noir' for dessert, which we did NOT split.
Continuing to the chateau Vendeuvre on a warm 24C cloudless day, we enjoyed the 'jardin d'eau surprises' (surprise water garden), which turned on a water feature suddenly when it sensed someone nearby. The kids loved it; we followed cautiously after the kids triggered the fountains. We also enjoyed other parts of the large estate, including the swan lake and the formal gardens.
Then we headed for the 'Parc et Jardins du Chateau de Canon', which the GPS knew about, but was frustrated by a blocked road under repair; fortunately, we just went a few blocks around the blocked part, and found the chateau. This is a famous garden containing statues, a Chinese kiosk, a temple, the mirror pond, and Chartreuses (a succession of flower gardens surrounded by walls. It was started in 1775 (a year before the US declaration of independence!). It's a huge property, with well-marked paths to the various features, and with a 'cave' at the end of the route where you can taste cider made from pears and apples.
Returning to Bagnoles de l'Orne, we had a light supper of draft beer, 'salade nicoise' and 'moules frites' which we split. Then we walked around this cute town with its many displays of flowers along the streets, to the thermal spring hotels and spas. The views are very nice, especially across the lake.

Mon 21 Jul- Chateau de Craon, Hotel Le Normandie in Bagnoles-de-L'Orne

Mon 21 Jul- after a nice breakfast, we packed and left for the Chateau de Craon. We arrived before it opened, so we had lunch snack at the Creperie du Chateau just across the street: 'vin de Pays rouge', a 'salade grande' for Kiyomi with all kinds of veggies; and a chocolate crepe for Stan. Then we went back across the road to the chateau, where we found it was a pretty chateau with extensive properties divided into several areas. Although the gardens were not particularly impressive or inspirational, it was nice walking around the quiet grounds on a warm 23 C partly cloudy day.
We continued on to our Hotel Le Normandie in Bagnoles-de-L'Orne, a very nice picturesque town with lots of restaurants and little shops, as well as many hotels and a casino. The hotel has been here many years, and is apparently famous for its 'restaurant gastronomique', which we tried the E 18 menu with beer to drink: we each had a different salad, which we split as usual; one had lettuce with gizzards, ham and smoked salmon; the other had a variety of vegetables like lettuce, beets, avocado, cucumber, etc. Kiyomi bravely decided to try the Tripe Normandy style, which wasn't bad, but we'll probably not try it again. Stan had the heart of beefsteak; both were served with various vegetables and potato. For dessert, we split a Napoleon with 3 liquors and Stan had a selection of the cheese board.

Sun 20 Jul- 'Le Chateau de Montriou', Grez-Neuville

http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)

Sun 20 Jul- we were served a nice continental breakfast, with real fresh orange juice, coffee, croissant, chocolate-filled pastry and sweet pastry, plus toast. It's a 20 C cool, partly cloudy day
We decided to visit the cute little village of Grez-Neuville, which is on the Mayenne river and about 20 minutes drive through the pretty French countryside. We had a snack, Kiyomi had a beer and salad topped with bacon and mushrooms, Stan had a Crepe Regale (chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream) and hot chocolate at the Creperie la Bateliere on the river overlooking the boat launching area. Then we walked around the town admiring the gardens and architecture and commenting on its cleanliness.
We continued to the 'Le Chateau de Montriou', which has eight garden areas, and has been there since the 15th Century. We viewed the chateau and chapel, then walked through the 8 garden areas. The largest tree in the area is here, a giant sequoia planted in 1862 (still a midget compared to the giant sequoias in California). Later in the season, the squash and gourds will be huge; they are just starting now. It was interesting to see the flowers used as a contrast to the green of the vegetables, a good idea to add color to the foodstuffs.
On the way back we took a look at 'Le Moulin' (http://www.maine-anjou-rivieres.com), a historic mill on the Mayenne River in the town Chenille-Change. We decided not to try to rent a boat and navigate the river without a knowledge of where the dams and locks were.
Back at the chateau, we relaxed with a beer, enjoying the day in the country.
We had dinner at the chateau in a very romantic candle-lit dining room, and we were the only ones for dinner: a salad course of terrine on lettuce; a nice rose wine from the area; fish, with fresh string beans and zucchini in tomato sauce (from the garden); a cheese plate with three different cheeses (one was a goat cheese, Stan ate Kiyomi's portion); and a chocolate brownie in vanilla sauce (YUM!).

Sat 19 Jul- Jardins du Chateau du Pin, 'Chateau du Plessis-Anjou'

Sat 19 Jul- pack and depart for our next garden. Cloudy and cool, 20 C. On the way, stop for lunch at Les Arches in one of the small towns on the way for the E10 plat du jour: 'Domaine Dos Geslets St. Nicolas de Boargueil' 2005 red wine (a Loire valley fine wine); buffet entrees, a good selection of meat, cheese, various vegetable salads, etc.; faux filets with green salad; buffet dessert, vanilla cream with meringue and soft coconut chocolate cake; cafe; total E29.
On to the Jardins du Chateau du Pin, famous for the topiary, the weather clearing to partly cloudy and warm 25 C. The chateau was at the end of a road the GPS didn't know about, but signs pointed the way from the nearby town Champtoce-sur-Loire. The chateau was deserted except for two caretakers, who sold us tickets and gave us a map diagram of the gardens, so we had the whole garden to ourselves. The topiary was indeed amazing and huge. The water features used a theme of statuary frogs of different shapes and sizes.
On to our hotel, the 'Chateau du Plessis-Anjou', which the GPS didn't know about, so we went to the nearby town, La Jaille-Yvon and followed the signs to this rustic pretty chateau off a narrow country road, adjacent to a forest. It has lovely gardens of flowers and vegetables. For dinner, our hostess served a lettuce, tomato, cucumber and zucchini salad of fresh-from-the-garden veggies, which was delicious with oil & vinegar dressing, and a local rose wine.

Fri 18 Jul- 'Le Chateau de Villandry','Chateau de la Chatonniere'

Fri 18 Jul- we asked for just coffee, but got a nice continental breakfast of coffee, orange juice, sweet rolls, croissants, rolls, butter, jams and honey.
We went to see the garden at 'Le Chateau de Villandry', which is a beautiful, large garden with several themes, including extensive food and medicinal plants, grape arbors, lavender beds, beautiful views of the garden, chateau and countryside. As we finished, it was starting to cloud over, but we decided to try for another garden on the way back to the chateau.
We set course for the gardens of 'Chateau de la Chatonniere'. By the time we arrived, the clouds had thinned, so we could enjoy the several theme gardens: Senses, Intelligence, Sciences, Abundance, Fragrances, Exuberance, Silence, Wonder, and Elegance. Even now in mid=July it was beautiful, but spring would be an ideal time to visit when the wisteria, wild flowers and roses are in full flower. It was a large garden, and we got good exercise walking around in it.
We returned to the chateau ready for our E42 gourmet dinner: 'noisettes de melon et saumon, gelee au citron et gingembre' (melon and salmon in lemon and ginger jelly); 'fond d'artichaut aux langoustines et foie gras emulsion de crustaces a l'estragon' (artichoke heart with langoustines and foie gras in shellfish and tarragon sauce); 'medallion de porc sauce aux epices douces et verrine de legumes de moment' (pork medallion in special sauce with a glass of seasonal vegetables); 'plateau de fromages' (cheese plate); 'dacquoise amande aux fruits rouges' (almond dacquoise with red fruit); Vouvray white wine 2003.

Thu 17 Jul- Chateau Rochecotte

Thu 17 Jul- after coffee, depart and stop for lunch: the E11 plat du jour: green salad with terrine plus veggies; bottle of red house wine; faux filets with fries; baked salmon with sauce; creme brullee, a slice each of apple, pear and cherry tart, 2 cafes.
Continued on to the Chateau Rochecotte, a very nicely decorated upscale typical French chateau, but still in the country at the end of a long winding tree-lined driveway. Our room had very large windows with a nice view of the country. The grounds are pleasant to wander around; they are quite extensive and wooded, with paths, garden areas, arbors, a chapel and many other interesting landscape features.

Wed 16 Jul- Parc Floral d'Apremont,

Wed 16 Jul- after coffee, we headed out, stopping by for a salad lunch with carafe of red wine for E12. We got gas, paying E55 for about 34 liters. We continued to the 'Parc Floral d'Apremont' in the village Apremont sur Allier. This is a rather large garden, with several different theme areas and attractions, including a water cascade flowing down to a lake, three "follies", a Chinese bridge, a Turkish pavilion, and a Belvedere featuring an octagonal building with lovely tiles depicting a trip around the world, ending here. We recognized some of the landmarks that we had visited. The town itself was cute and attractive; the garden architect revised the town to fit his idea, so when seen from the garden, it did not contrast. The summer flowers border was in full bloom, and beautiful with a multitude of colors. It must be even more attractive in spring when the wisteria blooms.
We each had the E27 dinner back at the chateau: terrine (a coarser foie gras) on toast; salmon mousse; salt cod mixed with potato; chicken with carrots; half-bottle rose wine, apricot on cookie with pistachio ice cream; raspberry sherbet over meringue with vanilla ice cream; finally a plate with bite-size chocolate tart, pineapple candy, and a shot glass of coconut milk & liquor. It was all very tasty; only complaint was, Kiyomi said the meringue was too crisp so it was hard to cut and eat. Taste-wise, everything was delicious and nicely artistically presented. We ate outside as the sun was going down, with a nice view of the countryside.

Tue 15 Jul- Jardin d'Orsan, Chateau de Ygrande

Tue 15 Jul- after the included buffet breakfast, we departed and visited the Jardin d'Orsan [http://www.prieuredorsan.com], a lovely garden with all kinds of inspiration and good ideas for Kiyomi, especially using and recycling the garden materials. Also, espalier apple trees and other kinds, topiary, raised beds, arbors, etc.
For lunch we stopped by and had a salad that was a full meal in itself, with 6 or 7 different items, as if served from a salad bar. It would have been the entree to the menu of the day, but we were still full from breakfast.
We continued on to the Chateau de Ygrande [http://www.chateauygrande.com], a more upscale chateau, very picturesque, with horse stables and the practice area for competition riding, a pool, a long driveway lined by huge old trees, and a very nice view of the countryside. The GPS was invaluable for guiding us here.
For dinner, we just had our salad: tomato, avocado, grapes and white Muscat wine.

Mon 14 Jul-Saint Pardoux

Mon 14 Jul- it's Bastille Day, but it's quiet here in the country. After breakfast, we went for a walk through the woods and along the roads, enjoying nature and the cool at 21 C, but sunny weather. We went to Saint Pardoux for lunch at the only cafe open for business, had a nice foie gras sandwich and cafe au lait, then walked the town in under 15 minutes (yes, it's a really small village)
Back at the chateau, we walked around the property, then Kiyomi worked while Stan read his book 'Eagle in the Sky' by Wilbur Smith.
We had dinner at the chateau; the food was plain but plentiful and good: 1/2 liter red house wine; real quiche with lettuce salad; chicken with rice and vegetables; 4 kinds of cheese; apple tart dessert. Not gourmet, but tasty and satisfying.

Sun 13 Jul- Chateau de Vauguenige

Sun 13 Jul- after coffee, we bought some foie gras and checked out. It seemed all the restaurants and shops were closed for the holiday weekend along the way to our next stop, but we finally found a brasserie open in Limoges: 1/4 liter house red wine; chicken over lettuce with tomato, potato, egg & olives salad; faux filete with carrots, zucchini and French fries; creme brullee; cafe.
It was cool and cloudy, so we skipped the garden and continued directly to Chateau de Vauguenige, led by the GPS. It is out in the country, the driveway is several hundred feet long, with huge trees on either side, arching over completely. There are horses and goats in the pastures, and fish jumping in the lakes. The nearest village is Saint Pardoux, which doesn't even have a gas station or ATM. It's a very rustic chateau with 5 guest rooms upstairs, sitting rooms and library, kitchen and dining rooms downstairs; surprisingly, the Internet connection worked great. They also feature Gites and guest cottages, equestrian stables and trails, fishing in the lakes, and hot-air ballooning. The host and hostess were friendly and accommodating, our room was quite large and comfortable, with huge windows that let in plenty of light.

Sat 12 Jul- Chateau de Hautefort, Bovetti Chocolate factory

http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)

Sat 12 Jul- cloudy and cool about 19 C. Head to the famous Chateau de Hautefort [http://www.chateutau-hautefort.com], a historical monument with formal gardens. It's an impressive structure, on a hilltop commanding the surrounding countryside. It has nteresting architecture, furnishings and gardens. The gardens were past their peak, and many were being replanted. The topiary was nice, but not so many blooming flowers.
Then have lunch at 'Relais de Gourmets' in Terrasson: 1/4 bottle house rose wine, cafe, cafe au lait, bacon, lettuce & tomato salad, goose gizzard salad (no really, it's good!).
On to the Bovetti Chocolate factory, for the history of cocoa and demonstration of the manufacture of chocolate from the beans, and tasting (YUM!). It was informative, including the news that chocolate does not cause acne, obesity or headaches; it helps prevent cancer, high blood pressure, arteriosclerosis; makes you feel invigorate and good, and more. Although more expensive than what we usually get, we bought some of the interesting flavors.
Then to the 'Les Jardins de l'Imaginaire' for a tour of the famous garden, created by an American, which blends myth, history, geography with plants [http://www.ot-terrasson.com/] (I leave the translation of the website and the following menu to the audience)
Returning to the chateau, we had a delicious gourmet dinner: 1/2 bottle Muscadet Chateau du Coingo de St. Fiacre white; 'Farci de thon rouge et de chair de crabe, coulis de peau de concombre a la menthe fraiche'; 'saudre roti sur citronelle bulbe, aioli de patates douces aux zestes de combawa egreure de riz venere'. In addition, they served plates with several hors d'ouvres before and after the entree and main dish. It was unique and delicious, a very pleasurable and tasty experience.

Fri 11 Jul- Manoir de Hautegente, gourmet lunch

Fri 11 Jul- after a coffee, reluctantly bid goodbye to Chateau Monrecour and headed for Coly on a cloudy cool day 22 C, hoping to find our next hotel, the Manoir de Hautegente nearby. More little country roads, farms, villages, woods, pastures (lots of cows, but haven't seen many goats). Fortunately, as we passed through Coly, we saw the sign to the Manoir and arrived successfully just in time for a gourmet splurge lunch, the Menu Decouverte (E35/each): 1/2 bottle 'Muscadet Chateau du Coings de St. Fiacre' white wine; Patience (a gourmet treat of several little tasty items); 'minestrone arlequin', 'copeaux de boef froid facon thai, pepites de foie gras mi cuit; cubisme de magret de canard laque, lamelles de courgettes grilles, tartare d'aubergine a la ricotta'; 'Eveil des sens'; 'vacherin nouvelle generation: meringue a la verticcale, sorbet fraise, glace vanille, creme legere, coulis a boire'. It was really enjoyable, the duck was a very large steak - I wonder how big the doner duck was.
After lunch we walked around the grounds, taking pictures and admiring the setting. It is in the country, separated from the road by cornfields, trees and a river, and is really quite beautiful. After the huge lunch, we just had tomato and cucumber, plus wine and chocolate for evening meal.

Thu 10 Jul- Daglan, Brives

Thu 10 Jul- after buffet breakfast, it was a warm sunny 29 C, so we decided to take a ride through the French countryside and the famous beautiful villages: Daglan, where we had lunch at the 'Petite Paris': 2 draft beer, E6; 'ravoilis frite de crevettes' (ravioli shrimp), 'mousse de guacamole', 'confiture de tomates epicees et courgettes acidulees', 'la mousse soufflee au chocolate "mi-cuite, mi amere" et glace gigembre', total E27. We walked through the cute, clean, pretty town, visited the post office (computerized).
We then headed for Brlves, another larger clean pretty town, guided by the GPS through back country roads, some one lane where cars had to ease past each other off the road. We walked around, bought some lavender sachet for the suitcases, enjoyed the streets and views (breathtaking), had a beer, walked the tourist circuit admiring the architecture and cleanliness.

Wed 9 Jul- 'Jardins de l'Albarede' near St. Cybranet

Wed 9 Jul- finally a beautiful day! After coffee on the terrace, we went to visit the 'Jardins de l'Albarede' near St. Cybranet. The GPS guided us, and fortunately we saw the garden on the way, just outside St. Cybranet. It is a smaller, more rustic garden, but nice with emphasis on kitchen herbs and food plants; and plants that can grow in the difficult soil and weather conditions of the area (the plants there were doing quite well). There was a nice panorama walk, with a great view of the surrounding countryside.
We had lunch we went to a countryside restaurant 'Auberge des Chateaux', which had a nice view of the chateau: 'salade verte aux noix' (green salad with walnuts); 'salade Provencale' (chef's salad); grilled beefsteak with mushroom sauce and garlic potatoes, a pitcher of white house wine; total E31. It warmed up to 30 C, so we teturned to the chateau and relaxed.
Had a beer and some tomatoes (really good around here) on the terrace and watched a hot-air balloon launch.

Tue 8 Jul- St. Vincent de Cosse, Restaurante Hotel du Chateau in Beynac

Tue 8 Jul- another grey cloudy cool day. After a very good buffet breakfast (but expensive at E14/each) we found the computer could connect to the wi-fi network, with a good strong signal, but IE could not display the pages requested. We've seen this problem before, and it seems to be a DNS issue. So Stan worked on the hotel's computer and Kiyomi worked on the laptop without Internet.
The afternoon warmed up and the sky cleared, so we walked to the nearby village, St. Vincent de Cosse. It really is a tiny town, no gas station, no bank, no post office, just a few B&Bs and some residences (some very nice, some pretty bad)
Kiyomi has some advice for making reservations in Europe. Use www.booking.com, or for more interesting upscale places, in France www.chateauxhotels.com, in Portugal http://www.pousadas.pt/, and in Spain www.paradores.com. Not all the pousadas and paradores are worth the added cost for lodging and meals over the nearby regular hotels, and some are in inconvenient locations; but some are really unique and interesting places to stay (castles, mansions, country estates, monasteries or palaces). Avoid the website www.planigo.com; it has a flaky business model that ofen results in canceled reservations after they have charged your credit card and you receive a confirmation.
For dinner, we went to the Restaurante Hotel du Chateau in Beynac and had a carafe of Bergerac white wine; 'Tourain du Perigord a l'ail' (garlic soup); 'salade de chef avec les ingredients du jour' (chef salad of the day); 'omlette aux truffles de Perigord' (omlet with truffles); 'truite flambee aux amandes' (trout flambeed with almonds), total E66. The garlic soup was quite good and unique, the omlet was delicious and unique, the trout was fresh and tender, and we left quite stuffed.

Mon 7 Jul- 'Les Jardins du Manoir d'Eyrignac', 'Chateau Monrecour'

Mon 7 Jul- after buffet breakfast, packed and departed. The weather had been rainy and it was cool at 17-18 C, but seemed to be clearing up.
We stopped by Sarlat for Stan's PT/INR test, first at the hospital but were told it was done at the Laboratory, a few miles down the road. So we went to the Laboratory, a medical testing lab run by doctors with a professional staff and modern technology. They knew right away what I needed done, quickly filled out the forms with simply name, address, where to send the results, then in to the room, blood drawn, and out to pay the E10 ($16) fee - quick and efficient.
We continued on to 'Les Jardins du Manoir d'Eyrignac', a Michelin 2-star attraction that the GPS knew about. Before entering, we had snack in the cafe: 2 tomato salads, E8 a pot of tea, E2.30 and beer E2.50 for a total of E13. It's a very nice formal garden, lots of fine topiary in several themed areas. Unfortunately, it started to rain when we were about three-fourths through, so we rushed the ending.
We continued on to our next hotel, the 'Chateau Monrecour' in the small town St. Vincent de Cosse. It's a beautiful old chateau, fixed up as a hotel. Very picturesque and pleasant.
We had dinner at nearby 'La Petite Tonnelle' in Beynac: 2 E18 entree ;+ plat specials and E10 red wine 'Chateau de Panisseau' 2005; 'salade d'asperges vertes rofies au magret fume', 'faux filet a la chalotte', 'cuisse de canard confit'; total E46.

Sun 6 Jul- cool and rainy, relax and work

Sun 6 Jul- a cool rainy morning, the breakfast buffet in the Hotel Meysset is not as extensive as in Spain or portugal.
Kiyomi worked on her article, Stan finished R. Matheson 'I Am Legend' book; in paperback exchange got 'See Delphi and Die' by Lindsey Davis.
We had a 'splurge' meal at the hotel, 2 E19 specials and E9 wine: Chateau Laulerie 'Bergerac Rose' 2005; mushroom and walnut entree, sea bream, lamb knuckles with garlic. It sounds plain in English, the French is much more impressive with lots of accented vowels. The food was really very good, very nicely presented, salad had a tasty dressing, sea bream was fresh, tender, cooked just right, and delicious; the lamb was mild and very tender, served with sliced potatoes and nice vegetables.

Sat 5 Jul- 'Jardines de Cadiot',Hostellerie de Meysset in Sarlat-en-Perigord

http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)

Sat 5 Jul- after coffee and Internet checking, we packed and headed for our next garden, 'Jardines de Cadiot', which turned out to be an extensive group of 10 themed gardens. It was very photogenic, and we took lots of pictures and video, despite it being cloudy and a cool 22 C. Afterwards we stopped by for lunch at 'Le Charmille' where we had 'vins blanc en pichet', E4; menu a 12 Euro: 'Terrine' (a coarse foie gras), 'escalope de poulet a la creme', 'soupe de campagne', 'plat du fromage'; and menu a 14.50 Euro: 'soupe de campagne', 'salade d'avocat aux crevettes' (avocado and shrimp salad), 'poisson du jour' (fish of the day), 'creme brulee'; and two espressos for a total of E35. We continued on our way to the hotel, Hostellerie de Meysset in Sarlat-en-Perigord. on top of a hill overlooking two valleys. It has some very nice views, and the room is good except no bathtub, just shower. We relaxed in the room for the rest of the day, hoping for sunny weather tomorrow.

Fri 4 Jul- Les Jardins de Marqueyssac

Fri 4 Jul- still full from last night, we had just coffee for breakfast. After working on the Internet and reading the news, we headed out, first for lunch at the 'Restaurante Le Pointe de Vue', for a 'Plat du jour' and Perigord salad and draft beer. The Plat was foie gras entree, steak and French Fries main dish, and chocolate ice cream for dessert; the salad was greens, and lots of different kinds of meat, including foie gras, duck, sausage, and others, all for E32; very enjoyable ambience, the view was of the Chateau Montfort on a warm sunny day. We continued to 'Les Jardins de Marqueyssac', the gardens surrounding a very picturesque chateau high on a hill overlooking the French countryside. There was some very interesting topiary work, but mainly a wooded area with several walks that gave great views of the surrounding country. The exercise felt great, the paths were mostly smooth and shaded, and the views were awesome. We stopped by a small town on the way back for vegetables as our evening snack (cucumber, tomatoes, avocado) and pastry for tomorrow's breakfast. The hotel buffet at E18 ($28)/person is a bit steep.

Thu 3 Jul- Domaine de Rochebois, gourmet dinner

Thu 3 Jul- After breakfast of coffee & croissant at a local cafe, we packed and headed for Hotel Domaine de Rochebois, a 4-star hotel in the countryside near Sarlat.
On the way we stopped by Restaurant Les Pres Gaillardou in Gageac, a cute little countryside restaurant for a light lunch, the special salad and trout from the Dordogne, plus the local draft beer, all for E37.50. We'd planned to stop by a garden on the way, but it was a cool 19 C, cloudy and rained while we were having lunch.
Fortunately the GPS got us to the hotel, because the address would have been hard to find otherwise, just Route de Montfort, Vitrac 24200 Sarlat. It is a beautiful setting, overlooking a valley, and you can see the Dordogne river through the trees in the distance. The weather finally cleared and warmed to a comfortable 23-24 C.
We are having a wonderful time in France now, visiting gardens, eating at fancy French restaurants, and staying in the chateaux and interesting hotels.
The change in cuisine from Spain is quite dramatic, tonight's gourmet experiece brought rave reviews from Kiyomi, she loved it. We had the 3-course special for E42/each: tuna sashimi & foie gras entree; turbot (a popular fish) & glazed duck; strawberry surprise with champagne sauce & lemon mousse. In between the main courses, they served little tasty selections, like salmon on cracker, tempura-style oyster, petit-fours featuring cheese, tomato puree, asparagus puree, and other delectable goodies.

Wed 2 Jul- cold remedy Humex

Wed 2 Jul- Kiyomi caught cold, so we took it easy today. It is cloudy and cool, 23 C, and threatening more rain. Stan had the buffet breakfast, Kiyomi only felt like having hot tea. After taking Motrin, she felt better, so we went out for some cold remedy. The local pharmacy gave us some Humex and throat lozenges. Kiyomi reports this was an excellent remedy: instant relief of sinus pressure and pain, unstuff the nose, and no unpleasant side-effects. We had 'cafe au lait' at a local coffee shop, walked around the small but clean and pretty town, then had supper at Cafe/Brasserie Oscar: house red wine; beefsteak with French fries; house special salad; mushroom omlette, total E24.

Tue 1 Jul- Le Bugue, Hotel Royal Vezere

Tue 1 Jul- after a continental breakfast, we packed and headed for Le Bugue, which is actually on the AAA map. It was another leisurely drive through beautiful countryside, past little farms, chateaux, churches, villages, woods, vineyards, etc. The day was clear and sunny, and warmed up to 28-29 C.
We stopped for lunch at a restaurant along the road, 'Brasserie du Parc' and had: 'Stella Artois' draft beer, E2/ea; buffet a volonte, E10.50; 'plat du jour' (today beefsteak with French fries), E8.50; total E24. Kiyomi enjoyed the many different vegetable selections on the buffet, and Stan enjoyed the steak.
We arrived at our Hotel Royal Vezere, and were pleasantly surprised that parking was available right in front, free. The room is well-furnished and nice, it's much better than Kiyomi expected. Our room overlooks the Dordogne River, and we watch it flowing by while we relax.
We had a light supper at the hotel: '1664' draft beer; and we shared a 'salade nicoise' and a 'creme brulee' (YUM!). A thunderstorm passed through as we were eating on the terrace and we had to run inside.

Mon 30 Jun- Parc et Jardin du Chateau de Vayres, Jardins de Sardy

Mon 30 Jun- continental breakfast at the hotel: coffee, orange juice, good selection of tasty fresh bread with butter and jams; canteloupe, yogurt. It is a warm sunny day, 25 C.
We went first to the 'Parc et Jardin du Chateau de Vayres' in Vayres, another small town not on our map; but fortunately the GPS knew about it. We were guided through the beautiful French countryside of the Dordogne Valley - vineyards, chateaux every few kilometers, cute villages one after the other, crossing the Dordogne River several times, through narrow country lanes (had to drive off the road to let another car pass, but there was very little traffic) that went through woods and forests, past orchards and vineyards and little French farmhouses. The Chateau is overlooking the Dordogne River and has lovely gardens that were deserted, and a public park that was quite popular with the locals. We enjoyed the gardens and the chateau exterior, but decided not to go inside.
We then headed to the 'Jardins de Sardy' in Velines. The GPS didn't even know about it, but Veronica drew a map which got us there after we arrived in Velines (the GPS know about it). We had coffee on the terrace overlooking the property, and then we wandered through the garden, taking lots of photos and video. It was very photogenic and many different flowers were in bloom. After we finished the garden, our host took us into the wine-making area where they crush the grapes and age the wine in large stainless steel containers. He gave us a taste of their vintage, a nice Merlot. Interestingly, his dream is to visit Las Vegas someday.
We headed back to Les Remparts where we relaxed in the shade overlooking the valley and hill beyond, enjoying a serene afternoon. It has warmed up to 29-30 C, and the breeze is welcome and refreshing while reading our books until dinnertime at the hotel. We had their menu of the day: Chateau Des Chaperlains white wine; pate a fois gras (this area of France is where the best and most is made); guinea fowl; and creme brulee. It was delicious, and nicely presented in the dining room overlooking the valley.
Due to the time of year, latitude and longitude, the sun doesn't set until after 9:30, and it's still light at 10, so we enjoy a long day.

Sun 29 Jun- France, Hotel Les Remparts in Gensac

Sun 29 Jun- after coffee and pastry for breakfast, we packed and headed for France. The GPS led us to our Hotel Les Remparts in Gensac (www.lesremparts.net ; N44 48.479, E 00 04.334), a town too small to be on our AAA map of France. It's a small town in the Dordogne region, also known as the Perigord, to the northeast of Bordeaux. As we were nearing Bordeaux, we saw more and more vineyards and chateaux. The GPS took us through narrow winding country roads, through a very pretty countryside. The hotel is run by an English couple, Steve and Veronica Parker, since 2005. It has a beautiful view from its location at the edge of town, next to a church and overlooking a beautiful valley to a wooded hill in the distance. It was so peaceful and quiet, and a warm pleasant 28 C with a nice breeze to keep us comfortable.
We had dinner at one of the two restaurants in town, 'Cafe La Paix': Mosbrau Biere d'Alsace, E4; 'Confit de Canard (roast glazed duck), E12; 'Faux Filete' (beefsteak), E12. Very nice food, tasty and well prepared; and the restaurant had the view overlooking the valley.

Sat 28 Jun- Parque Christina Enea, Puente de la Zurriole

http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)

Sat 28 Jun- we had coffee and pastry for breakfast.
For our walk, we crossed the 'Puente de la Zurriole' to the 'Playa de la Zurriola', where we walked along the beach on a pleasant sunny day, about 23-24 C. The beach was already crowded, though it seemed a bit cool to be in a swimsuit, much less swimming. We then walked to the 'Parque Christina Enea', a large wooded public park, with nice grassy areas where people were playing, smooth paths where many were walking, lots of babies in strollers. We walked from the north entrance to the south exit, which was a bridge over a highway and railroad tracks, then down some stairs to the river 'Rio Urumea'. We walked back north along the river walk to the 'Puenta Maria Christina', whose entrances are decorated with huge statues.
We stopped for supper at the 'Bar Amazonas' for two E10 'menu del dia' specials: 1/2 liter white wine; 'escalope con pimienntos', pescado rebozado'; salada mixte', 'espaugetti'; a bowl of good bread (fresh and tasty); 'flan' for dessert; total E20.
We continued our walk back to the hotel, where Stan entered our future destinations into the GPS and Kiyomi worked on her article.
We took an evening stroll to the Old Town for veggies, and a new book for Stan to read: a collection of stories by Richard Matheson, including 'I am Legend', for the whopping price E15. The price in the US is $15.
That evening we heard drums and music, so looked out our hotel window to witness the San Sebastian Gay and Lesbian parade.