Fri 27 Jun- after just coffee for breakfast, continue planning and reservations. After finishing, go for lunch at Restaurante Marinela: grilled squid, E17; giant shrimp, E13; 2 local beer, E5.50; bread, E1.40; total, E39.48 (assorted taxes are added to the base amount). The squid was not the steak Kiyomi expected, it was smaller pieces, but fresh and tasty, cooked in olive oil with garlic; the shrimp were langoustine, served whole in the shell, with legs and head - messy to eat but quite good.
We decided to take a walk to the top of Monte Urgall for some great views of San Sebastian, and our quota of exercise. It was a very pleasant walk, the trail was smooth and not very steep, circled around the mountain several times, giving views of the ocean, city, and Pyrenees in the distance.
Stopped by the mercado for wine (Vega de Cega rosada Valdepenas, E0.99), artichoke hearts, canonigos greens, tuna, and some chocolate.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Thu 26 Jun- research and reserve France
Thu 26 Jun- after coffee and sweet rolls, continue making reservations thru 1 Aug, when we pick up the Viking Paris to Prague cruise.
Had lunch again at the Maria Christina's Saigon restaurant: 2 beers, 'anguila a la parrille' (eel like the Japanese unagi), E18.50; 'arroz salteanada' (fried rice), 5.50; 'buey Szechuan' (Szechuan Beef), E12.50; 'verduras orientales salteadas' (fried oriental vegetables), E7; total E57.
After lunch continued research and reservations.
Had lunch again at the Maria Christina's Saigon restaurant: 2 beers, 'anguila a la parrille' (eel like the Japanese unagi), E18.50; 'arroz salteanada' (fried rice), 5.50; 'buey Szechuan' (Szechuan Beef), E12.50; 'verduras orientales salteadas' (fried oriental vegetables), E7; total E57.
After lunch continued research and reservations.
Wed 25 June- Hotel Monte Igeldo and restaurant Mercure
Wed 25 June- after coffer and sweet rolls, we continued researching and reserving hotels in France. We will stay at a lot of chateaux in the countryside, avoiding cities with their traffic, parking and noise issues. We'll hope for a nearby restaurant and grocery shop (and pastry shop, too).
We took a long walk, first on the promenade along the beach, stopping by the garden/park at Palacio Miramar. There were lots of pretty flowers, especially hydrangea, and a nice view of the bay, city, mountains and Isla Santa Clara. We continued our walk to the funicular at Monte Igeldo, rode it to the top. There were more great views. We checked out Hotel Monte Igeldo and its restaurant Mercure, and decided to celebrate Kiyomi's 56th birthday here: draft beers; grilled vegetables with garlic; and angler fish. This was our first time for angler fish; it was served deboned except for the backbone and the huge mouth gaping open wide. It was quite good, fresh and tender and went well with the beer and vegetables. Afterward we took the funicular back down and walked back on the beach, barefoot.
After a rest at the hotel, we went for our beer and pintxos (tapas) to Beti-Jai: 3 tapas and 2 draft beer was E10; and then to Bar Aralar where we had 3 pintxos and 1 beer for E6.50. On the way back to the hotel we got pastry for tomorrow.
We took a long walk, first on the promenade along the beach, stopping by the garden/park at Palacio Miramar. There were lots of pretty flowers, especially hydrangea, and a nice view of the bay, city, mountains and Isla Santa Clara. We continued our walk to the funicular at Monte Igeldo, rode it to the top. There were more great views. We checked out Hotel Monte Igeldo and its restaurant Mercure, and decided to celebrate Kiyomi's 56th birthday here: draft beers; grilled vegetables with garlic; and angler fish. This was our first time for angler fish; it was served deboned except for the backbone and the huge mouth gaping open wide. It was quite good, fresh and tender and went well with the beer and vegetables. Afterward we took the funicular back down and walked back on the beach, barefoot.
After a rest at the hotel, we went for our beer and pintxos (tapas) to Beti-Jai: 3 tapas and 2 draft beer was E10; and then to Bar Aralar where we had 3 pintxos and 1 beer for E6.50. On the way back to the hotel we got pastry for tomorrow.
Tue 24 Jun- Monte Urgull, pintxos, txu-txu train
Tue 24 Jun- after coffee and sweet rolls for breakfast, we took a morning walk around the base of Monte Urgull. There were nice views of the city, Isla Santa Clara, Monte Igeldo and the ocean.
We had lunch again at the hotel's Saigon restaurant: spinach salad with sesame; 2 beers; Thai noodles with seafood; sauteed soy bean noodles with vegetables.
Decided to take the txu-txu (choo-choo) train/bus (http://www.txu-txu.com/) for E4.50 each. It was more as a diversion than a need to be taken around, because we plan to walk the course later. On the way back, we stopped by the Mercado for tonight's snack and tomorrow's sweet rolls. Then stopped by a pintxos (tapas) bar and sampled 5 selections and a draft beer: tuna salad, crab & grilled pepper; octopus & cheese; skewer of anchovies and peppers, and one smothered in onion.
We had lunch again at the hotel's Saigon restaurant: spinach salad with sesame; 2 beers; Thai noodles with seafood; sauteed soy bean noodles with vegetables.
Decided to take the txu-txu (choo-choo) train/bus (http://www.txu-txu.com/) for E4.50 each. It was more as a diversion than a need to be taken around, because we plan to walk the course later. On the way back, we stopped by the Mercado for tonight's snack and tomorrow's sweet rolls. Then stopped by a pintxos (tapas) bar and sampled 5 selections and a draft beer: tuna salad, crab & grilled pepper; octopus & cheese; skewer of anchovies and peppers, and one smothered in onion.
Mon 23 Jun- Hospital visit
Mon 23 Jun- we ordered coffee with hot milk from room service and ate the sweet rolls. It's a satisfying breakfast, and the service was coffee in a silver thermos and milk in fine china, plus two pastries.
Today was another adventure getting the PT/INR test for Stan. The local clinic across from the hotel could not do the test, so we went to Hospital Donostia, San Sebastian's main hospital. Fortunately a bus went right from the hotel to the hospital for E1.20, so we didn't bother driving; and just as well - the parking at the hospital was scarce. We were sent to three different departments before the Urgent Care/Emergency clinic finally agreed to do the test. It was a matter of documentation and paperwork, not ability to do the test. Finally when it was done, they could not figure out how to bill me, so they sent me away with the results! It was only about 3 hours, hotel to hotel, and actually pretty smooth, considering the language differences.
We had lunch at the hotel's Saigon Restaurant (www.cafesaigon.es), and oriental food is their specialty: 2 KELER 18 beers; mixed sushi/sashimi, E18; prawns in green curry, E12; fried oriental vegetables, E7; total E42. It was as good or better than the food we got in old town, and in a very elegant dining room with nice decor and ambience, with just a few other diners.
In the evening, we took a walk to the local mercado, bought pastry for tomorrow and wine for tonight, plus potato chips cooked in olive oil, and artichoke hearts. We walked along the promenade a while, noticing how many people of all ages were out, from little kids to old folk, commenting how different from Portugal, where everyone seemed to disappear in the evening.
Today was another adventure getting the PT/INR test for Stan. The local clinic across from the hotel could not do the test, so we went to Hospital Donostia, San Sebastian's main hospital. Fortunately a bus went right from the hotel to the hospital for E1.20, so we didn't bother driving; and just as well - the parking at the hospital was scarce. We were sent to three different departments before the Urgent Care/Emergency clinic finally agreed to do the test. It was a matter of documentation and paperwork, not ability to do the test. Finally when it was done, they could not figure out how to bill me, so they sent me away with the results! It was only about 3 hours, hotel to hotel, and actually pretty smooth, considering the language differences.
We had lunch at the hotel's Saigon Restaurant (www.cafesaigon.es), and oriental food is their specialty: 2 KELER 18 beers; mixed sushi/sashimi, E18; prawns in green curry, E12; fried oriental vegetables, E7; total E42. It was as good or better than the food we got in old town, and in a very elegant dining room with nice decor and ambience, with just a few other diners.
In the evening, we took a walk to the local mercado, bought pastry for tomorrow and wine for tonight, plus potato chips cooked in olive oil, and artichoke hearts. We walked along the promenade a while, noticing how many people of all ages were out, from little kids to old folk, commenting how different from Portugal, where everyone seemed to disappear in the evening.
Sun 22 Jun- San Sebastian (Donastia to the native Basque speakers) and Hotel Maria Christina
Sun 22 Jun- no buffet today, we were on a different program. With the 'golden age' program, breakfast buffet is included, but today we were on a different program, so we finished the left-over veggies from last night with coffee, and headed to San Sebastian (Donastia to the native Basque speakers) and our Hotel Maria Christina, a Starwood luxury property in the heart of the city, walking distance to all the important places - old town, Monte Urgull, shopping, the theater, right beside the river, a few blocks from the beach promenade, etc. It was Maria Christina's beach-side palace apparently, now a 5-star hotel, very plush. We got a large room with flat-screen TV, king bed, huge bathroom. Although Kiyomi got a good basic rate, the peripheral add-ons mounted up: parking, valet service, Internet, etc. giving a bit of sticker shock. It is a beautiful hotel in a good location. We went to old town for lunch, but found inflated prices and average restaurant fare at the wharf and through the town. The Tapas bars look interesting, though they are called 'pintxos' here. We finally had lunch at 'Restaurante Igueldo': fried squid, E12; grilled sardines, E10; 2 beers for E5.50; 'filete ternas' (minute steak) with fries, E9; total E39. Not bad tasting and the quantity was sufficient, but no bargain price-wise, and the tables and chairs were crowded together outside, smokers mixed on with non-smokers. Back at the hotel we researched France. Went out in the evening for beer (Amstel draft) at a local pub and picked up sweet rolls for tomorrow morning, since this hotel does not include breakfast.
Sun 22 Jun- San Sebastian (Donastia to the native Basque speakers) and Hotel Maria Christina
Sun 22 Jun- no buffet today, we were on a different program. With the 'golden age' program, breakfast buffet is included, but today we were on a different program, so we finished the left-over veggies from last night with coffee, and headed to San Sebastian (Donastia to the native Basque speakers) and our Hotel Maria Christina, a Starwood luxury property in the heart of the city, walking distance to all the important places - old town, Monte Urgull, shopping, the theater, right beside the river, a few blocks from the beach promenade, etc. It was Maria Christina's beach-side palace apparently, now a 5-star hotel, very plush. We got a large room with flat-screen TV, king bed, huge bathroom. Although Kiyomi got a good basic rate, the peripheral add-ons mounted up: parking, valet service, Internet, etc. giving a bit of sticker shock. It is a beautiful hotel in a good location. We went to old town for lunch, but found inflated prices and average restaurant fare at the wharf and through the town. The Tapas bars look interesting, though they are called 'pintxos' here. We finally had lunch at 'Restaurante Igueldo': fried squid, E12; grilled sardines, E10; 2 beers for E5.50; 'filete ternas' (minute steak) with fries, E9; total E39. Not bad tasting and the quantity was sufficient, but no bargain price-wise, and the tables and chairs were crowded together outside, smokers mixed on with non-smokers. Back at the hotel we researched France. Went out in the evening for beer (Amstel draft) at a local pub and picked up sweet rolls for tomorrow morning, since this hotel does not include breakfast.
Sat 21 Jun- Farmer's Market/flea market
Sat 21 Jun- after the included buffet breakfast, we took a walk to the next town and found an open-air Farmer's Market/flea market with all kinds of goods: food, clothing, jewelry, kitchen goods and gadgets, etc. We got cherries for E3/kg ($2/lb), tomatoes, peppers, avocado, olives for supper at a great price.
It had started as a warm sunny day, but by the afternoon we had a thunderstorm with lightening and rain.
It had started as a warm sunny day, but by the afternoon we had a thunderstorm with lightening and rain.
Fri 20 Jun- Limpias and the 'Parador de Limpias'
Fri 20 Jun- after coffee we departed for Limpias and the 'Parador de Limpias'. On the way we decided to get a seafood dinner on the coast, which became sort of a wild goose chase, because we didn't have any restaurant name or address, just drove down roads near the ocean looking for a likely place. Finally settled for 'Restaurante gelin' in the town of Gajano (not even on my map), but it's near Santander. We each ordered the 'menu of the day' at E11 each: 'alcachofes salteadas con jamon' (artichoke hearts with ham); 'ensalidilla Ruse' (Russian salad); draft beer; 'chuleta a la plancha' (beefsteak with french fries); 'filete de lacha rebozada' (filet of fish); pudim de caco' (coconut pudding); and flan. It was plentiful, tasty, and quite filling. Fortunately one of the waitresses could translate the menu into something we could understand.
Then on to the Parador, apparently a former palace where we got a nice room with a good view of the courtyard.
We took an evening stroll along the river, surprised to see so many fish, apparently a kind of salmon. The town of Limpias is pretty quiet, so we stopped by a minimarket for tonight's veggie snack, then returned to the Parador and started researching again.
Then on to the Parador, apparently a former palace where we got a nice room with a good view of the courtyard.
We took an evening stroll along the river, surprised to see so many fish, apparently a kind of salmon. The town of Limpias is pretty quiet, so we stopped by a minimarket for tonight's veggie snack, then returned to the Parador and started researching again.
Thu 19 Jun- Hotel La Barona, Oviedo
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Thu 19 Jun- we just had coffee and half a croissant for breakfast, it's almost a relief not to have an included buffet, where I feel obliged to stuff myself.
We had a working day, planning our journey through France. Kiyomi has begun researching, and will probably continue for several more days.
We ate lunch at the hotel, and were pleasantly surprised by the 'menu of the day' for E12: a bottle of Rioja Monasterio Viejo red wine; good bread, mixed greens salad with bonito, spaghetti, sirloin steak with gravy and potatoes; turbot with boiled potatoes, 'creme arroz con leche' (rice pudding); and 'mousse de limon' (lemon mousse). We each chose different menu items, and shared with each other. Everything was actually very good, tasty, presented well and cooked skillfully. We didn't expect such good quality from the hotel
Thu 19 Jun- we just had coffee and half a croissant for breakfast, it's almost a relief not to have an included buffet, where I feel obliged to stuff myself.
We had a working day, planning our journey through France. Kiyomi has begun researching, and will probably continue for several more days.
We ate lunch at the hotel, and were pleasantly surprised by the 'menu of the day' for E12: a bottle of Rioja Monasterio Viejo red wine; good bread, mixed greens salad with bonito, spaghetti, sirloin steak with gravy and potatoes; turbot with boiled potatoes, 'creme arroz con leche' (rice pudding); and 'mousse de limon' (lemon mousse). We each chose different menu items, and shared with each other. Everything was actually very good, tasty, presented well and cooked skillfully. We didn't expect such good quality from the hotel
Friday, June 20, 2008
Wed 18 Jun- Pazo de Oca, Oviedo and our Hotel La Borona
Wed 18 Jun- after the buffet breakfast, it was a nice day, so we decided to try to visit Pazo de Oca, which we skipped previously due to rain. The GPS was clueless, no Oca, but we followed the Tourist Office map, and eventually found it after asking a few people for directions. The trip was well worth it. The garden was quite nice and extensive, including very old established plantings, a vineyard, and orchard, and a lake with waterfalls and islands shaped like boats. Apparently it is especially famous for its many camellia bushes, which had finished blooming earlier. The hydrangeas were doing great, and many other plants were blooming, and it was a beautiful warm day. We had the place almost to ourselves, and it was a nice break from driving.
Then on toward Oviedo and our Hotel La Borona. The GPS, set for the fastest route, took us through beautiful countryside, with farms, vineyards, pastures and orchards, forests, rivers, rolling hills and beautiful vistas on narrow country roads. Looking at the map, it was not the route I'd have taken, and was pretty round-about. We stopped at a restaurant along the way and had the 'special of the day': bowl of vegetable soup, mixed green salad, grilled swordfish, and beef roast (like pot roast), potatoes, a bottle of wine, all for about E15. We continued toward Oviedo along the foothills of the Pyrenees, a beautiful drive with lovely views of the countryside.
As usual, the last two kilometers were the hardest, finding the hotel was a challenge. We drove by twice, but didn't recognize it. Fortunately several friendly natives pointed it out to us (yes, we could see it from where we asked for directions), and finally arrived abut 9 pm.
It's a business hotel, in a commercial/industrial area - many car dealers are across the highway, but it's new and modern, the room is quite nice with large window. The wireless internet was slow and intermittent; we had to use the LAN cable downstairs in the lobby. Fortunately, we brought one just in case, and the hotel had several loaners.
Then on toward Oviedo and our Hotel La Borona. The GPS, set for the fastest route, took us through beautiful countryside, with farms, vineyards, pastures and orchards, forests, rivers, rolling hills and beautiful vistas on narrow country roads. Looking at the map, it was not the route I'd have taken, and was pretty round-about. We stopped at a restaurant along the way and had the 'special of the day': bowl of vegetable soup, mixed green salad, grilled swordfish, and beef roast (like pot roast), potatoes, a bottle of wine, all for about E15. We continued toward Oviedo along the foothills of the Pyrenees, a beautiful drive with lovely views of the countryside.
As usual, the last two kilometers were the hardest, finding the hotel was a challenge. We drove by twice, but didn't recognize it. Fortunately several friendly natives pointed it out to us (yes, we could see it from where we asked for directions), and finally arrived abut 9 pm.
It's a business hotel, in a commercial/industrial area - many car dealers are across the highway, but it's new and modern, the room is quite nice with large window. The wireless internet was slow and intermittent; we had to use the LAN cable downstairs in the lobby. Fortunately, we brought one just in case, and the hotel had several loaners.
Tue 17 Jun- 'chocolate con churros'
Tue 17 Jun- the hotel served a very complete buffet breakfast, included with the room, in a very nice dining room with ambience and nice decor. We walked around the old town window shopping and looking at restaurant menus. There is a range from cheap (E8 for the menu of the day) to expensive (seafood gourmet platters E75 and up). Kiyomi decided to try tapas, so we had a set of four 'raciones' at 'El Patio': pork ears (for the experience, but yuck!); spinach & shrimp (not too bad, but the shrimp was old); grilled meat on a skewer (the best of the set, but Kiyomi didn't like the spices used); grilled seafood on a skewer (octopus, shrimp and veggies - not too bad, but the seafood was old); total E13.40, a disappointment after the great tapas we had in other restaurants, and just about what we paid for the great lunch yesterday. To refresh our mouths from the old seafood taste, we had two orders of 'chocolate con churros' for E4.40 at 'O Porton', a delicious cup of thick hot chocolate and freshly cooked churros, a kind of donut, but cylindrical rather than a torus, so no hole - meant for dunking! It was a great chocolate fix.
Back at the hotel we investigated our future travel alternatives.
Back at the hotel we investigated our future travel alternatives.
Mon 16 Jun- Santiago de Compostela and our Parador 'Hostel des Reis Catolicas', 'Pazo de Monasterio de San Lourenzo
Mon 16 Jun- after breakfast, we left for Santiago de Compostela and our Parador 'Hostel des Reis Catolicas'. The Hostel is a large spread-out structure built by the Catholic monarchy as a resting place for pilgrims. It's in the middle of old town Obradoiro Plaza, and driving in the mainly pedestrian area was worrisome - were we allowed here? were we in the right place? where was our Parador? Everything was resolved satisfactorily, and we checked in.
Our room was nice, but kind of dark. It had wood shutters that excluded all light when closed - great for sleeping. The Hostel gardens are famous, but we didn't find them particularly impressive. The Hostel itself is pretty impressive, it's a 5-star hotel, and is very interesting to walk through. Many tourists visit just to see the Hostel, but stay someplace inexpensive. We looked at the menu and prices, but didn't see anything tempting at those prices. We went to the nearby 'Las Huertas': 'Estrella Galicia' beer; 'Calamares Fritas' (fried squid), E5; 'Ensalada "Las Huerta" (mixed tuna salad), E6; one 'today's special', E7, which included beer, bread, 'Caldo Gallego' (bean & greens vegetable soup), 'Filete de Merluza a la romana' (hake with lettuce & tomato salad), 'Arroz con leche casero' (rice pudding); total E21.87.
The 'menu de dia' (daily special) is a really good value if you can find a place that has a special you like; it's a complete meal, more than enough generous portions, and includes the bread, drink (wine, beer, soda or water), several choices of first course, several choices of second course, several choices of dessert, sometimes coffee, all for a set price.
We visited the garden 'Pazo de Monasterio de San Lourenzo de Trasouto', a very old established garden, famous among garden visitors, but somewhat neglected. It was cloudy, cool with periodic showers, so it wasn't as pleasant as it could have been. There were some huge trees and shrubs, the hydrangeas along the outside stone wall were quite impressive. Inside the monastery is an atrium with very old box shrubs, trimmed by hand scissors, and very high. The chapel was beautiful, with marble statuary and walls, especially when the lights were turned on.
In the evening we were not hungry, so snacked on wine, tawny port, cheese, tomato and chocolate.
Our room was nice, but kind of dark. It had wood shutters that excluded all light when closed - great for sleeping. The Hostel gardens are famous, but we didn't find them particularly impressive. The Hostel itself is pretty impressive, it's a 5-star hotel, and is very interesting to walk through. Many tourists visit just to see the Hostel, but stay someplace inexpensive. We looked at the menu and prices, but didn't see anything tempting at those prices. We went to the nearby 'Las Huertas': 'Estrella Galicia' beer; 'Calamares Fritas' (fried squid), E5; 'Ensalada "Las Huerta" (mixed tuna salad), E6; one 'today's special', E7, which included beer, bread, 'Caldo Gallego' (bean & greens vegetable soup), 'Filete de Merluza a la romana' (hake with lettuce & tomato salad), 'Arroz con leche casero' (rice pudding); total E21.87.
The 'menu de dia' (daily special) is a really good value if you can find a place that has a special you like; it's a complete meal, more than enough generous portions, and includes the bread, drink (wine, beer, soda or water), several choices of first course, several choices of second course, several choices of dessert, sometimes coffee, all for a set price.
We visited the garden 'Pazo de Monasterio de San Lourenzo de Trasouto', a very old established garden, famous among garden visitors, but somewhat neglected. It was cloudy, cool with periodic showers, so it wasn't as pleasant as it could have been. There were some huge trees and shrubs, the hydrangeas along the outside stone wall were quite impressive. Inside the monastery is an atrium with very old box shrubs, trimmed by hand scissors, and very high. The chapel was beautiful, with marble statuary and walls, especially when the lights were turned on.
In the evening we were not hungry, so snacked on wine, tawny port, cheese, tomato and chocolate.
Sun 15 Jun- rainy day, Parador supper
Sun 15 Jun- Woke up to a cool and rainy day. Decided to do Internet work and read - Stan read 'Suzanne's Diary for Nicholas' by James Patterson, a love story/romance, and apparently a 'major CBS event' several years ago. Patterson is better known for his murder mysteries ('Along came a spider', etc.), but the story was non-violent and quite moving.
We had lunch at the Parador so we didn't have to go out in the rain: 2 beers, E4.48, 'Pulpo a Feira' (octopus), E17; 'fritura pescados plaza' (mixed fried 'catch of the day'), E16; 2 pieces of bread, E3.70 (note: refuse the bread and other appetizers when the waiter brings them, and you won't be charged, but they bring it automatically, and if you don't refuse, they nick you big time!); 2 cafe, E3.26; total E48. We should have gone out! The rain and clouds continued, so we stayed in, planning the next month and a half in Spain and France, also checking Croatia.
We had lunch at the Parador so we didn't have to go out in the rain: 2 beers, E4.48, 'Pulpo a Feira' (octopus), E17; 'fritura pescados plaza' (mixed fried 'catch of the day'), E16; 2 pieces of bread, E3.70 (note: refuse the bread and other appetizers when the waiter brings them, and you won't be charged, but they bring it automatically, and if you don't refuse, they nick you big time!); 2 cafe, E3.26; total E48. We should have gone out! The rain and clouds continued, so we stayed in, planning the next month and a half in Spain and France, also checking Croatia.
Sat 14 Jun- 'Parque Quinones de Leon' , Pontevedra and the Parador
Sat 14 Jun- After breakfast, leave for the 'Parque Quinones de Leon' near Vigo. The GPS knew about it, and led us there. It is open to the public, but is part of an estate that looks like a castle. The formal garden was interesting and had many blooming flowers, the rest of the property was a public park, with many large eucalyptus and other trees and shrubs.
Then on to Pontevedra and the Parador de Pontevedra, formerly the palace of the Counts of Maceda, and located in the heart of old town. Fortunately, the GPS led us very close to it, and parking was easy and secure. We could walk everywhere we needed to, through the narrow, winding, cobblestone alleys and roads. We saw the 'Xardins de Vicenti' and Xardins de Colon' (they were not very impressive), and many churches, chapels, convents and monasteries - it's a very religious town.
We had a nice dinner at 'O Cruceiro': 'Gambas al Ajillo' (shrimp cooked on olive oil with garlic), E7; 'Pulpo con Almefas' (octopus with clams in tomato sauce), E11; the local 'Estrella Galicia' beer, E2; for a total of E22. They were good choices, served on sizzling platters, the octopus was tender and fresh, shrimp with garlic was quite good.
Then on to Pontevedra and the Parador de Pontevedra, formerly the palace of the Counts of Maceda, and located in the heart of old town. Fortunately, the GPS led us very close to it, and parking was easy and secure. We could walk everywhere we needed to, through the narrow, winding, cobblestone alleys and roads. We saw the 'Xardins de Vicenti' and Xardins de Colon' (they were not very impressive), and many churches, chapels, convents and monasteries - it's a very religious town.
We had a nice dinner at 'O Cruceiro': 'Gambas al Ajillo' (shrimp cooked on olive oil with garlic), E7; 'Pulpo con Almefas' (octopus with clams in tomato sauce), E11; the local 'Estrella Galicia' beer, E2; for a total of E22. They were good choices, served on sizzling platters, the octopus was tender and fresh, shrimp with garlic was quite good.
Fri 13 Jun- de Sao Martinho de Tibaes', Biscainhos Palace
Fri 13 Jun- after buffet breakfast, we visited the garden 'Mosteiro de Sao Martinho de Tibaes', the Monastery of St. Martin. It was a beautiful large park/garden/vegetable farm/orchard, as part of the monastery grounds. It was quite extensive, with a grand staircase with fountains, many arbors, paths through woods with many different kinds trees and shrubs. It was peaceful and quiet, and there were very nice views of the countryside.
We returned to the Pousada, rested a while, then walked to the Museum & Gardens of the Biscainhos Palace. We toured the museum, and were glad to live in our time rather than back then, but it was impressive to see how they lived and the tools and furniture and tableware they used. The decorations were very nice, all kinds of pictures, carved ceilings, painted ceilings, and very fancy carpentry everywhere.
We had supper at the Pousada: 1/2 bottle 'Quinta de Aveleda' white wine (from the winery we'd visited on the way to Braga); appetizers-pickled octopus, croquettes, marinated fried smelt covered with onions, fruit pieces on toothpick; Sole, Braga style (nicely cooked in olive oil, smothered in onions, over baked potato chips); mixed grilled vegetables with soft sweet rice.
We returned to the Pousada, rested a while, then walked to the Museum & Gardens of the Biscainhos Palace. We toured the museum, and were glad to live in our time rather than back then, but it was impressive to see how they lived and the tools and furniture and tableware they used. The decorations were very nice, all kinds of pictures, carved ceilings, painted ceilings, and very fancy carpentry everywhere.
We had supper at the Pousada: 1/2 bottle 'Quinta de Aveleda' white wine (from the winery we'd visited on the way to Braga); appetizers-pickled octopus, croquettes, marinated fried smelt covered with onions, fruit pieces on toothpick; Sole, Braga style (nicely cooked in olive oil, smothered in onions, over baked potato chips); mixed grilled vegetables with soft sweet rice.
Thu 12 Jun- Pousada Sao Vicente, 'Bom Jesus'
Thu 12 Jun- the Pousada Sao Vicente has a very nice dining room for breakfast, and a nice buffet. We visited the famous religious retreat/sanctuary 'Bom Jesus'. It's actually famous for the stairway, the 'Escadaria do Bom Jesus', which we walked down, and then back up. We walked around, had beer at Hotel do Parque, took the tourist train/bus around, then returned to the Pousada to work on the Internet.
We went out for supper to 'Restaurante Inacio: 1/2 bottle 'Vinho Verde da Casa', E4; 'Espetada de Lulus', E12 (skewered squid with other veggies); 'Espetada Mist', E12 (mixed skewered meat-beef, ham, tomato, & peppers); 'Mousse de Manga, E3.20 (mango mousse, made with egg yolk and condensed milk, rich and sweet). The squid with broiled potato and sautéed vegetables, the meat with french fries and nice greens/carrot/cabbage salad. The skewers were presented vertically, in an interesting way and were easier to unskewer the food and eat.
We went out for supper to 'Restaurante Inacio: 1/2 bottle 'Vinho Verde da Casa', E4; 'Espetada de Lulus', E12 (skewered squid with other veggies); 'Espetada Mist', E12 (mixed skewered meat-beef, ham, tomato, & peppers); 'Mousse de Manga, E3.20 (mango mousse, made with egg yolk and condensed milk, rich and sweet). The squid with broiled potato and sautéed vegetables, the meat with french fries and nice greens/carrot/cabbage salad. The skewers were presented vertically, in an interesting way and were easier to unskewer the food and eat.
Wed 11 Jun- 'Quinta da Aveleda', Braga and the Pousada S. Vicente
http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Wed 11 Jun- after our breakfast snack as part of our Club upgrade, we departed Porto, to visit a garden at 'Quinta da Aveleda'. It is a beautiful garden, part of a 300-year old estate that grows grapes and produces fine wines. For the E2 admission, we really got our money's worth. We were amazed at the beauty and the eminence - the garden had a very rustic, old, established feeling, but not neglect or disrepair. It was a pleasure to wander along the paths, admiring the many blooming flowers and the various garden features, such as the goat tower, Swan Lake, Geese Lake, carp pond, tea house, fountains, etc. After wandering around for almost 2 hours, we returned for the wine tasting. They opened a bottle just for us, and gave us a huge plate of soft and hard cheese. We bought a bottle of 'Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde' and a 0.64 kg block of 'Queijo Quinta da Aveleda' (cheese) for only E8.52.
From there we headed for Braga and the Pousada S. Vicente. The Pousada is very modern, with lots of modern art and sculpture. The art is not to our taste, but some of the sculpture was nice. It is quite different from the palaces and castles we have stayed in previously, but very nice.
For dinner we went into town to the 'Restaurante Bem-Me-Quer': beer, 'Prato do Dia - Arroz o Bem-Me-Quer c/ Carne Estufada' E8.50; 'Linguado Grelhado' E13.45; for a total of E25.20. The sole was delicious, fresh and tender and cooked just right; and the beef was like pot roast, tender and flavorful, served with fried rice with beef & vegetables. It was a very enjoyable meal.
Walking back, we saw the preparations for the festival, decorative lighting everywhere, crowds out even after 9 pm, huge flat-screen TV showing soccer games (apparently Portugal won, judging from the applause and cheers).
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Wed 11 Jun- after our breakfast snack as part of our Club upgrade, we departed Porto, to visit a garden at 'Quinta da Aveleda'. It is a beautiful garden, part of a 300-year old estate that grows grapes and produces fine wines. For the E2 admission, we really got our money's worth. We were amazed at the beauty and the eminence - the garden had a very rustic, old, established feeling, but not neglect or disrepair. It was a pleasure to wander along the paths, admiring the many blooming flowers and the various garden features, such as the goat tower, Swan Lake, Geese Lake, carp pond, tea house, fountains, etc. After wandering around for almost 2 hours, we returned for the wine tasting. They opened a bottle just for us, and gave us a huge plate of soft and hard cheese. We bought a bottle of 'Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde' and a 0.64 kg block of 'Queijo Quinta da Aveleda' (cheese) for only E8.52.
From there we headed for Braga and the Pousada S. Vicente. The Pousada is very modern, with lots of modern art and sculpture. The art is not to our taste, but some of the sculpture was nice. It is quite different from the palaces and castles we have stayed in previously, but very nice.
For dinner we went into town to the 'Restaurante Bem-Me-Quer': beer, 'Prato do Dia - Arroz o Bem-Me-Quer c/ Carne Estufada' E8.50; 'Linguado Grelhado' E13.45; for a total of E25.20. The sole was delicious, fresh and tender and cooked just right; and the beef was like pot roast, tender and flavorful, served with fried rice with beef & vegetables. It was a very enjoyable meal.
Walking back, we saw the preparations for the festival, decorative lighting everywhere, crowds out even after 9 pm, huge flat-screen TV showing soccer games (apparently Portugal won, judging from the applause and cheers).
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Tue 10 Jun- the Se & Vila Nova de Gaia, Taylor Fladgate port wine tasting
Tue 10 Jun- after the included buffet breakfast, we took the Muni from a station near the hotel, back to the Sao Bento station, and walked up to the Se (fortress cathedral) to have a look at its azulejos. They were pretty impressive.
We then walked down to the river front, through the narrow winding cobblestone alleys. From the river front, we walked over to the Ponte de D. Luis I, designed and built by Eiffel (of the Paris tower fame), and walked across to the Vila Nova de Gaia town. It is famous as the place where port wine originated, and many of the original wineries are still in operation. The one we visited, Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman was established in 1692. We tasted several styles: Chip Dry, First Estate, and Vintage. We decided to buy some ruby red Quinta de Terra Feita Vintage 1988, bottled in 1990, and some of the Chip Dry (white) port. It was a generous tasting, so we kind of staggered around the garden, then headed back to the bridge.
Instead of walking up the steep roads or stairs, we took the funicular, which was just down the block from the Muni station, which took us back to near the hotel. On the way back, we picked up some tomatoes and cucumbers to supplement our vegetables.
We then walked down to the river front, through the narrow winding cobblestone alleys. From the river front, we walked over to the Ponte de D. Luis I, designed and built by Eiffel (of the Paris tower fame), and walked across to the Vila Nova de Gaia town. It is famous as the place where port wine originated, and many of the original wineries are still in operation. The one we visited, Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman was established in 1692. We tasted several styles: Chip Dry, First Estate, and Vintage. We decided to buy some ruby red Quinta de Terra Feita Vintage 1988, bottled in 1990, and some of the Chip Dry (white) port. It was a generous tasting, so we kind of staggered around the garden, then headed back to the bridge.
Instead of walking up the steep roads or stairs, we took the funicular, which was just down the block from the Muni station, which took us back to near the hotel. On the way back, we picked up some tomatoes and cucumbers to supplement our vegetables.
Mon 9 Jun- Jardim do Palacio de Cristal & Igreja do Carmo
Mon 9 Jun- Internet access is quite expensive, E5/hour, so we'll probably wait until we reach Braga to do any serious time.
Kiyomi got her hair cut in a local beauty shop, not all the cheap at E40+, and there were some communication problems.
After that we walked into town to visit the 'Jardim do Palacio de Cristal', a large park with several gardens here and there, including a rose garden, aromatic plants garden, etc. It was a decent garden, quiet and well-kept, but not inspirational. There were some very nice views of the city, the river, and Vila Nova de Gaia across the river.
We walked from there into the old town to see the famous azulejos that cover the outside wall of the 'Igreja do Carmo', stopped by a snack shop for beer, wandered around a bit, then went to the Sao Bento train stations to see the immense panels in the entrance.
We decided we'd had enough exercise, so took a taxi back to the hotel for a snack and rest. We decided to take the Viking cruise from Paris to Prague, departing 1 August. So we'll turn in the car on 31 July, and leave for Prague 1 August.
Kiyomi got her hair cut in a local beauty shop, not all the cheap at E40+, and there were some communication problems.
After that we walked into town to visit the 'Jardim do Palacio de Cristal', a large park with several gardens here and there, including a rose garden, aromatic plants garden, etc. It was a decent garden, quiet and well-kept, but not inspirational. There were some very nice views of the city, the river, and Vila Nova de Gaia across the river.
We walked from there into the old town to see the famous azulejos that cover the outside wall of the 'Igreja do Carmo', stopped by a snack shop for beer, wandered around a bit, then went to the Sao Bento train stations to see the immense panels in the entrance.
We decided we'd had enough exercise, so took a taxi back to the hotel for a snack and rest. We decided to take the Viking cruise from Paris to Prague, departing 1 August. So we'll turn in the car on 31 July, and leave for Prague 1 August.
Sun 8 Jun- Porto, Portugal's second largest city
Sun 8 Jun- after the included buffet breakfast, we departed for Porto, Portugal's second largest city. We're staying at the Porto Sheraton & Spa Hotel, a very new hotel by the same architect as the Lisboa Sheraton. We upgraded to the Club Level on the 11th floor, so now parking is free, we have access to the Club Lounge on the 12th floor, and have a better grade of amenities. This includes a modern coffee maker, complimentary water and port wine.
We decided to watch the French Open men's final, Federer vs. Nadal. Federer seemed to be having a bad day, nothing worked the first set, and he lost the second and third sets to lose the match.
We snacked on the Club Room snacks, all kinds of goodies, plus coffee and other beverages including wine and port from 6:30 - a benefit of the Club level. After coffee and snacks, we went to the big 40-hour festival celebration at park and gardens at the Museum of Contemporary Art, joining half of Porto, it seemed. There were several live music venues, lots of food and Bock Beer (apparently a sponsor). The gardens were not very impressive, nice to walk through, but not much inspiration. We returned to the hotel for "happy hour" and our everning snacks with wine and port.
Porto means port as in seaport, not port wine, but it is famous for the port wine, too, especially in the Vila Nova de Gaia town just across the river.
We decided to watch the French Open men's final, Federer vs. Nadal. Federer seemed to be having a bad day, nothing worked the first set, and he lost the second and third sets to lose the match.
We snacked on the Club Room snacks, all kinds of goodies, plus coffee and other beverages including wine and port from 6:30 - a benefit of the Club level. After coffee and snacks, we went to the big 40-hour festival celebration at park and gardens at the Museum of Contemporary Art, joining half of Porto, it seemed. There were several live music venues, lots of food and Bock Beer (apparently a sponsor). The gardens were not very impressive, nice to walk through, but not much inspiration. We returned to the hotel for "happy hour" and our everning snacks with wine and port.
Porto means port as in seaport, not port wine, but it is famous for the port wine, too, especially in the Vila Nova de Gaia town just across the river.
Sat 7 Jun- Casa da Insua & Jardim da Casa de Santar
Sat 7 Jun- after the included buffet breakfast, we went to visit the garden at 'Casa da Insua'. After a lovely drive through the countryside, we arrived at Insua and found the Casa was being re-done as a hotel, so was not open for visiting. However, the garden was available, and since that's what we came for, we enjoyed walking around it for a while, taking photos and video. Finishing that garden, we headed toward Santar for the 'Jardim da Casa de Santar'. We found the associated 'Adego' (winery), but everything was closed at least until 3 pm. We decided to have a beer (E0.60/each) and walk around until 3, about an hour. It was a very quiet town, very little traffic, and not many people out. We returned to the Casa around 3, but nobody was around, and it didn't look like it would open today. However, the gate was ajar, so we squeezed through and walked around. Nobody else was there, we had it all to ourselves.
The drive back was along the same route, through varied landscape. There were small towns of red-tile roofed houses constructed from white stone or stucco, olive and orange tree orchards, vineyards, pine and eucalyptus forests, some arid almost desert stretches, then a huge lake behind a dam.
After arriving at Bussaco Palace, we took another walk in the forest, capturing the 'Fonte Fria' in afternoon light, through the 'Vale dos Petos', and arriving at the Coimbra gate with its expansive view of the country to the west.
For dinner we drove into Luso to Lourencos, reputedly the best restaurant in town: draft beers at E1.10 each; salads at E1.60 each; 'Bife de Casa' E8.50; 'Cherne Grelhado' E8.50. The Cherne was wonderful, like Chilean Sea Bass, moist, tender and delicious, and came with boiled potatoes and stewed vegetables. The beef with cheese and bacon topping was tasty, but somewhat chewy. It came with french fries, stewed vegetables and rice.
The drive back was along the same route, through varied landscape. There were small towns of red-tile roofed houses constructed from white stone or stucco, olive and orange tree orchards, vineyards, pine and eucalyptus forests, some arid almost desert stretches, then a huge lake behind a dam.
After arriving at Bussaco Palace, we took another walk in the forest, capturing the 'Fonte Fria' in afternoon light, through the 'Vale dos Petos', and arriving at the Coimbra gate with its expansive view of the country to the west.
For dinner we drove into Luso to Lourencos, reputedly the best restaurant in town: draft beers at E1.10 each; salads at E1.60 each; 'Bife de Casa' E8.50; 'Cherne Grelhado' E8.50. The Cherne was wonderful, like Chilean Sea Bass, moist, tender and delicious, and came with boiled potatoes and stewed vegetables. The beef with cheese and bacon topping was tasty, but somewhat chewy. It came with french fries, stewed vegetables and rice.
Fri 6 Jun- Bussaco Forest
Fri 6 Jun- after the included buffet breakfast, we stepped outside and found it was a cool sunny cloudless day. So we went out to the forest and tried to find the features on the map. Although the map had walking courses shown, we could not find the starting points, and followed red painted marks, thinking they were the guide. The map did not seem to correspond to the territory - maybe part of the mystical magical experience? The marks were not the guide so we ended up at the opposite end of the forest from where we thought we were. We got oriented by comparing the GPS map with the paper map, and followed a trail that looked promising. Just as we were about to give up and go back to the hotel, we came to the 'Fonte Fria' (cold water fountain), the major feature of the forest. We took many photos and video, then followed the path to the 'lago' (lake), and then through the 'Vale dos Petos' (valley of ferns).
We returned to the hotel to rest a bit and plan our July travels - Madrid and Barcelona, and/or France? Kiyomi is still researching what sounds most interesting. Our river cruise situation is still unknown, but a Viking Paris-Prague, and then a Prague to Bucharest sounds good.
Still full from last night and this morning, we drove a couple of kilometers into Luso to shop for a light supper for tonight. We got green and red sweet peppers, tomatoes, cucumber, a lemon (for salad dressing), some plums and a bag of potato chips. We have a bottle of port that will nicely complement the salad, so our digestion should have a chance to recover. We saw numerous restaurants in Luso, so tomorrow we plan to try one. The prices are much less, and hopefully the quality will be good.
We returned to the hotel to rest a bit and plan our July travels - Madrid and Barcelona, and/or France? Kiyomi is still researching what sounds most interesting. Our river cruise situation is still unknown, but a Viking Paris-Prague, and then a Prague to Bucharest sounds good.
Still full from last night and this morning, we drove a couple of kilometers into Luso to shop for a light supper for tonight. We got green and red sweet peppers, tomatoes, cucumber, a lemon (for salad dressing), some plums and a bag of potato chips. We have a bottle of port that will nicely complement the salad, so our digestion should have a chance to recover. We saw numerous restaurants in Luso, so tomorrow we plan to try one. The prices are much less, and hopefully the quality will be good.
Thu 5 Jun- Bussaco Palace Hotel and Forest
Thu 5 Jun- after the included buffet breakfast, we found it was abooher cool cloudy day. We departed for the Bussaco Palace Hotel (http://www.almeidahotels.com), situated in the center of the mystical, mythical Forest of Bussaco. Apparently it started as a Carmelite convent in 1628. The hotel is beautiful, it looks like a palace outside and inside. It's old, but stately, not decrepit or rundown, with interesting archetectural features from when it was a royal palace still in place. The tiles are beautiful, and thee are many large tile pictures throughout the hotel, and outside, too. We've taken dozens of photos so far of the interior, with its rich furnishings and interesting architecture, and exterior, including the beautiful garden (especially with the hotel in the background. We walked through the forest, enjoying the silence and the cool fresh air. Although we were looking for some of the features, we were not disappointed in the walk even though we could not find them. We returned, and got dress up for our royal "splurge" dinner: three course special for E35/person plus a half-bottle of the Bussaco Reserve 2002 red wine for E15; scallop au gratin, shrimp and leek confit; salad trolly; puff pastry with suckling pig and Port; grilled wild stone bass, three vegetable puree and aubergine au gratin; roast suckling pig Bairrada style, castle potatoes and fall's salad; and finally the dessert trolly. We got completely enjoyably stuffed, enjoying the royal ambience and the beautiful view of the garden.
Wed 4 Jun-
Wed 4 Jun- it was a cloudy cool day, threatening rain, we we had the buffet breakfast and did some Internet work. It didn't rain, and started clearing, so we decided to visit the Roman ruins in Conimbriga, 25 km from Coimbra. They are reportedly the best Roman ruins in Portugal, perhaps on the Iberian peninsula. The associated museum 'Museu Monografico e Ruinas de Conimbriga' was an excellent introduction to the site, displaying many artifacts recovered from the site, and arranged in order of their use, so similar items were together. We were once again amazed at all the items we think of as modern being used by the Romans 2000 years ago, and more. It was a very rewarding outing, and we appreciated the cool cloudy weather, because there was no shade at the ruins. The GPS didn't seem to know about the ruins as an attraction or city, but fortunately there were plenty of road signs to guide us.
After that, we decided to visit one more site listed on the Coimbra tourist map, the 'Mata do Choupal'. It turned out to be a national forest preserve, and was a really lovely woods/forest along the river. We would have appreciated a little sun here, but it was a quiet, cool walk with hardly anyone else around.
Back to the hotel, and out for dinner to our favorite 'Adega Funchal': 1//2 bottle Uniao Beira Alta white wine; 'soupa da dia', a nice vegetable soup (we really miss vegetables here!); 'Sardinhas Assado' (sardines, broiled, with boiled potatos, roasted green pepper and salad) E8; 'Bifinhos de Peru with mushrooms, potato chips and salad (veal fillets) E7.50; 'Delicia da Casa (layer cake with chocolate, whip cream and yellow cake dessert) E2.00. The total was E22, a real bargain for the quality and quantity - the fish was fresh and cooked just right, the veal was tender and in a very tasty sauce, the wine was fine, the dessert was delicious, the service was friendly and helpful.
After that, we decided to visit one more site listed on the Coimbra tourist map, the 'Mata do Choupal'. It turned out to be a national forest preserve, and was a really lovely woods/forest along the river. We would have appreciated a little sun here, but it was a quiet, cool walk with hardly anyone else around.
Back to the hotel, and out for dinner to our favorite 'Adega Funchal': 1//2 bottle Uniao Beira Alta white wine; 'soupa da dia', a nice vegetable soup (we really miss vegetables here!); 'Sardinhas Assado' (sardines, broiled, with boiled potatos, roasted green pepper and salad) E8; 'Bifinhos de Peru with mushrooms, potato chips and salad (veal fillets) E7.50; 'Delicia da Casa (layer cake with chocolate, whip cream and yellow cake dessert) E2.00. The total was E22, a real bargain for the quality and quantity - the fish was fresh and cooked just right, the veal was tender and in a very tasty sauce, the wine was fine, the dessert was delicious, the service was friendly and helpful.
Tue 3 Jun- 'Jardim Botanico' &'Quinta das Lagrimas'
Tue 3 Jun- after the included breakfast, it was a warm sunny day for a change, so we went to the 'Jardim Botanico' at the university, just up the hill from the hotel. We walked around, but most of the area was inaccessible (or we could not find the way in). The part we saw was very nice. Then we walked back through the 'Universidade Coimbra', established in 1537, but only a small portion of the original remains as a tourist attraction - busloads of tourists. Most of the buildings were of recent construction, and some had very interesting carvings in the facade to represent the division - physics equations, chemistry references, etc.
After that we walked across the 'Ponte de Santa Clara' bridge across the 'Rio Mondego' to the 'Quinta das Lagrimas' and its famous fountains, 'Fonte des Amores' and 'Fonte das Laguimas' (Love and Tears, love representing Queen Isabel's grandson's romance with Ines de Castro, and tears representing the murder of Ines later. The legends were new to us, but everyone in Portugal seems to know them - every town has streets named after them. (That Queen Isabel was Columbus's enabler for exploration.) The quinta (mansion or estate) has been around more than 700 years, but the gardens were not that impressive. The mansion was expanded into a 5-star hotel in 1995, and the restaurant is also famous. We had a nice beer in one of the sitting rooms, and it was quite elegant.
We walked back for more window shopping, but Kiyomi found a big book of Gardens in France, which she bought. She'll decide whether to visit French gardens, or Madrid and Barcelona. We picked up the shoes, repaired very nicely for E7, and the watch, repaired for E10. Stan got a much-needed haircut for E7. Then we went to the 'Adega Funchal' restaurant for dinner: 1/2 bottle of the house's regional Alta Beira 'Uniao' red wine E1.75, 'Soupa de Legumes caldo verde' (vegetable soup) E1.20 each; 'Dourado Grelhado no Carvao (grilled grouper) E6; 'Frango a moda do Alcobaca' (checken casserole) E7.5; total E21.80. The food was all excellent, a good value for the money. We picked up some nice port wine on the way back, and returned to the room for bath, a nightcap of port and chocolate.
After that we walked across the 'Ponte de Santa Clara' bridge across the 'Rio Mondego' to the 'Quinta das Lagrimas' and its famous fountains, 'Fonte des Amores' and 'Fonte das Laguimas' (Love and Tears, love representing Queen Isabel's grandson's romance with Ines de Castro, and tears representing the murder of Ines later. The legends were new to us, but everyone in Portugal seems to know them - every town has streets named after them. (That Queen Isabel was Columbus's enabler for exploration.) The quinta (mansion or estate) has been around more than 700 years, but the gardens were not that impressive. The mansion was expanded into a 5-star hotel in 1995, and the restaurant is also famous. We had a nice beer in one of the sitting rooms, and it was quite elegant.
We walked back for more window shopping, but Kiyomi found a big book of Gardens in France, which she bought. She'll decide whether to visit French gardens, or Madrid and Barcelona. We picked up the shoes, repaired very nicely for E7, and the watch, repaired for E10. Stan got a much-needed haircut for E7. Then we went to the 'Adega Funchal' restaurant for dinner: 1/2 bottle of the house's regional Alta Beira 'Uniao' red wine E1.75, 'Soupa de Legumes caldo verde' (vegetable soup) E1.20 each; 'Dourado Grelhado no Carvao (grilled grouper) E6; 'Frango a moda do Alcobaca' (checken casserole) E7.5; total E21.80. The food was all excellent, a good value for the money. We picked up some nice port wine on the way back, and returned to the room for bath, a nightcap of port and chocolate.
Mon 2 Jun- Coimbra at Hotel Astoria
Mon 2 Jun- After a lavish buffet breakfast, we did last-minute Internet checking, then departed for Coimbra, the famouse Portuguese university town.
On the way we stopped by a hospital for Stan's PT/INR test. Once again, a minimum of paperwork, very short wait, and cost was only 0.55 euros - less than $1, and that included faxing the result to the US.
We arrived at the Coimbra Hotel Astoria, checked in and tried to find a parking place. We had to wait in line 15 minutes, then pay E3 for 4 hours between 8 am and 7 pm in the public parking lot across the street.
Kiyomi found a shoe repair shop and a watch repair place, put and we did some window shopping.
We looked around for where to eat and decided we needed more vegetables, so went to the Chinese restaurant 'Esplendoroso': hot and sour soup with shrimp & tofu; shrimp with garlic on an iron plate (sizzling); chow mein with pork; assorted fried vegetables; Super Bock beer. All was very tasty, though more salt/MSG than we are used to, but only about E20 for everything.
On the way we stopped by a hospital for Stan's PT/INR test. Once again, a minimum of paperwork, very short wait, and cost was only 0.55 euros - less than $1, and that included faxing the result to the US.
We arrived at the Coimbra Hotel Astoria, checked in and tried to find a parking place. We had to wait in line 15 minutes, then pay E3 for 4 hours between 8 am and 7 pm in the public parking lot across the street.
Kiyomi found a shoe repair shop and a watch repair place, put and we did some window shopping.
We looked around for where to eat and decided we needed more vegetables, so went to the Chinese restaurant 'Esplendoroso': hot and sour soup with shrimp & tofu; shrimp with garlic on an iron plate (sizzling); chow mein with pork; assorted fried vegetables; Super Bock beer. All was very tasty, though more salt/MSG than we are used to, but only about E20 for everything.
Sun 1 Jun- Westin Campo Real
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Sun 1 Jun- After a lavish buffet breakfast (Westin really does it right!), we got Internet access, so Kiyomi worked on future accomodations and her work, while Stan did the photo upload to smugmug, email, and blog posting. Stan also finished the Dean Koontz "The Key to Midnight", having greatly enjoyed it; and continued the Charles Stross "Accelerando", now in the 2080's when the inner solar system has been deconstructed and made into computronium, inhabited by advanced AI, augmented or instantiated humans, borganisms, and a very different economic model, Economics 2.0, mainly dominated by AI comppanies. It's a mind-boggling view of the future.
We had an early supper at the hotel restaurant at 3 pm: octopus with rice, and squid with black spaghetti (black from the squid's ink). Both were very good, tender, fresh, not chewy and very tasty. The rice with the octopus was delicately flavored, and not the plain white rice expected, but a very nice preparation with bits of octopus mixed in, in addition to the large tentacles. We were so full we waited until the next day's buffet breakfast to eat again.
Sun 1 Jun- After a lavish buffet breakfast (Westin really does it right!), we got Internet access, so Kiyomi worked on future accomodations and her work, while Stan did the photo upload to smugmug, email, and blog posting. Stan also finished the Dean Koontz "The Key to Midnight", having greatly enjoyed it; and continued the Charles Stross "Accelerando", now in the 2080's when the inner solar system has been deconstructed and made into computronium, inhabited by advanced AI, augmented or instantiated humans, borganisms, and a very different economic model, Economics 2.0, mainly dominated by AI comppanies. It's a mind-boggling view of the future.
We had an early supper at the hotel restaurant at 3 pm: octopus with rice, and squid with black spaghetti (black from the squid's ink). Both were very good, tender, fresh, not chewy and very tasty. The rice with the octopus was delicately flavored, and not the plain white rice expected, but a very nice preparation with bits of octopus mixed in, in addition to the large tentacles. We were so full we waited until the next day's buffet breakfast to eat again.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Sat 31 May- Turcifal & the Westin Campo Real
Sat 31 May- after a nice buffet breakfast, we left for Turcifal and the Westin Campo Real, a new (Aug 2007) golf hotel/condo resort. We took a secondary road with a side trip to drive through the ocean town Peniche, a fishing village that has evolved into a larger beach town.
Our condo is quite large, with its fold-out sofa, 4 people could stay comfortably; there's a kitchen with stove, refrigerator and several appliances including espresso maker; flat panel TVs in living room and bedroom; a large terrace with nice view of the golf course and hills; a large bathroom with separate toilet/bidet, sink, shower and bath areas. We found out buffet breakfast is included in the room rate of E135/night. What a bargain! We had the buffet lunch E25/each, and got to get our fill of vegetables, salads and desserts. The Portuguese menus at the restaurants tend to be monotonous and don't include much vegetables or greens.
There is not much "tourist" stuff to do, so we'll catch up on email, Kiyomi will work or watch the French Open, and I'll read my Dean Koontz "The Key to Midnight", pretty good so far, and work on photos. It looks like it might rain as predicted. Fortunately, it was nice while we were driving and walking.
Our condo is quite large, with its fold-out sofa, 4 people could stay comfortably; there's a kitchen with stove, refrigerator and several appliances including espresso maker; flat panel TVs in living room and bedroom; a large terrace with nice view of the golf course and hills; a large bathroom with separate toilet/bidet, sink, shower and bath areas. We found out buffet breakfast is included in the room rate of E135/night. What a bargain! We had the buffet lunch E25/each, and got to get our fill of vegetables, salads and desserts. The Portuguese menus at the restaurants tend to be monotonous and don't include much vegetables or greens.
There is not much "tourist" stuff to do, so we'll catch up on email, Kiyomi will work or watch the French Open, and I'll read my Dean Koontz "The Key to Midnight", pretty good so far, and work on photos. It looks like it might rain as predicted. Fortunately, it was nice while we were driving and walking.
Fri 30 May- Pousada Castelo de Obidos
Fri 30 May- after buffet breakfast, it was off to Pousada Castelo de Obidos, N 39 21.800 W 09 09.437. where we stayed just one night for the experience, since the room rate was E265. On arrival, we followed the signs to a very narrow winding road outside the wall, past narrow gates and construction until we came to the end of the road, the parking lot. Then we went up the rough stone steps, and up some more. There are no elevators here, it's a converted castle. The interior was quite nice and modern, apparently it has been recently renovated, so everything looked pretty new. Our room was nicely furnished, but small.
After checking in, we started "doing the town", because Obidos is a UNESCO World Heritage site (http://www.cm-obidos.pt), and there was lots to see: the castle, churches, walls and gates. We walked around enjoying the walled-in portion, dominated by the Castelo, and went up the steps to the top of the main gate - slippery stones and no hand rail, but a nice view of the city and surrounding countryside, but they'd never get away with it in the US. There were flowers growing and blooming everywhere, from pots, containers, bowls and holes dug in the cobblestones beside the houses.
We decided to have a "splurge" dinner at the pousada, and it was quite good: 1/2 bottle Tinto Periquito 2004; 'Favas a Portuguesa' (fava beans Portuguese style with different sausage varieties) E25; 'Leitao assado a moda da bairrada' (glazed roast suckling pig) E24. Both main dishes were quite good, the pig especially - crisp glaze, juicy meat, very nice flavor and tender. In addition, we got a window seating that had a wonderful view of the countryside. We just relaxed in our room, watching CNN and the French Open.
After checking in, we started "doing the town", because Obidos is a UNESCO World Heritage site (http://www.cm-obidos.pt), and there was lots to see: the castle, churches, walls and gates. We walked around enjoying the walled-in portion, dominated by the Castelo, and went up the steps to the top of the main gate - slippery stones and no hand rail, but a nice view of the city and surrounding countryside, but they'd never get away with it in the US. There were flowers growing and blooming everywhere, from pots, containers, bowls and holes dug in the cobblestones beside the houses.
We decided to have a "splurge" dinner at the pousada, and it was quite good: 1/2 bottle Tinto Periquito 2004; 'Favas a Portuguesa' (fava beans Portuguese style with different sausage varieties) E25; 'Leitao assado a moda da bairrada' (glazed roast suckling pig) E24. Both main dishes were quite good, the pig especially - crisp glaze, juicy meat, very nice flavor and tender. In addition, we got a window seating that had a wonderful view of the countryside. We just relaxed in our room, watching CNN and the French Open.
Thu 29 May Monserrate Park & Pena Palace
Thu 29 May- after the included buffet breakfast, we found yet another cool, cloudy showery day. We bought a E10/each tour ticket for transport and admission to the Monserrate Park, 33 hectares of park, with plants from all over the world. However, it wasn't as impressive or as well laid out as the Quinta da Regaleira. It was a nice hour-long outing, but the palace was undergoing restoration, as well as part of the park, so we couldn't see everything. The palace wasn't our idea of a "palace", the colors and architecture were a little off. We returned to Sintra, and then took the bus #434 for E4/each to the Pena Palace, an XVIII century palace that really did look likd a palace or castle. The architecture and features are quite impressive, and its location at the top of a hill gives a great view of the countryside, but the gardens were not so interesting, and a lot were blocked off for renovation. It seems half of Portugal is undergoing renovation, and the other half is in dire need of it.
For dinner, we went to a recommended 'Restaurante Tulhas', named after the hole in the floor that is an archeological curiosity remaining from when the site was a granary ('tulhas'), maybe 800 or 700 years ago. We had the recommended veal cooked with Madeira wine E8.90; grilled swordfish E8.75, 1/2 bottle of Beira Mar house white wine E2.75. It was an excellent dinner, fresh tasty swordfish and the veal in Madeira wine was quite tasty. For dessert we had carmel custard E2.25, for a total of 22.65, and they gave us a complimentary shot of tawny port in addition.
For dinner, we went to a recommended 'Restaurante Tulhas', named after the hole in the floor that is an archeological curiosity remaining from when the site was a granary ('tulhas'), maybe 800 or 700 years ago. We had the recommended veal cooked with Madeira wine E8.90; grilled swordfish E8.75, 1/2 bottle of Beira Mar house white wine E2.75. It was an excellent dinner, fresh tasty swordfish and the veal in Madeira wine was quite tasty. For dessert we had carmel custard E2.25, for a total of 22.65, and they gave us a complimentary shot of tawny port in addition.
Wed 28 May Quinta da Regaleira
Wed 28 May- after an included buffet breakfast, on a cool, cloudy, showery day we walked up to the Quinta da Regaleira, which was very much better than we had expected. In addition to a fantastic palace/mansion, there is an extensive, fantastic, mythological/cosmological garden. It was incredible, it alone was worth our return to Sintra. We spent several hours wandering the paths, discovering the many features: grottos, lakes, waterfalls, wells, statues, towers, a chapel, secret tunnels, etc.
Returning to Sintra, we had an early evening Indian supper at the Bengal Tandoori: Special of the Day #4 chicken curry; and #5 mixed vegetables; garlic nan with 3 dips; beer; and babinca for dessert. It was delicious, only E20, and a nice change from the Portuguese menu, which we have noticed has the same 5 or 6 entrees, 5 or 6 fish dishes, and 5 or 6 meat dishes. Since we've tried them all several times, we were ready for a change.
Returning to Sintra, we had an early evening Indian supper at the Bengal Tandoori: Special of the Day #4 chicken curry; and #5 mixed vegetables; garlic nan with 3 dips; beer; and babinca for dessert. It was delicious, only E20, and a nice change from the Portuguese menu, which we have noticed has the same 5 or 6 entrees, 5 or 6 fish dishes, and 5 or 6 meat dishes. Since we've tried them all several times, we were ready for a change.
Tue 27 May Garden & Palace of Fronteira, Sintra National Palace
Tue 27 May- after a royal buffet breakfast, reluctantly left the Palace. Another cool (16C) cloudy day - this is really unexpected weather for Portugal in late May! We visited the Garden & Palace of Fronteira. Built in 1670 as a summer hunting lodge, it was extensively upgraded after the 1755 earthquake, when the family relocated there after their Lisbon home was destroyed - and it was a truly first-class upgrade. There is a huge amount of tile work everywhere, inside and outside the house, and a nice garden to complement the tiles made the visit well worthwhile.
Then on to our Hotel Tivoli in Sintra. In 2009, the Tivoli will reopen the former Setais Palace as the Tivoli Palace, and it will be fabulous. Meanwhile, this hotel is very convenient for the town - it's just across the street from just about everything important: the National Palace, the tourist office, the Indian restaurant, the Hockey Caffee, the bus stop to the Pena and Moorish castles, and has convenient parking.
We visited the Palace first, saw many beautiful tiles and interesting architectural features. Unfortunately, the garden was closed to the public two years ago.
For dinner, we returned to the Hockey Caffee, where we had delicious octopus when we were here last (in 2000?). So we had Octopus Lagare E14; grilled sardines E12; 2 beers E6.60; bread, butter & olives E4 for a total E37. It was very good, but not as good as we remembered it - I guess you really can't go back.
Then on to our Hotel Tivoli in Sintra. In 2009, the Tivoli will reopen the former Setais Palace as the Tivoli Palace, and it will be fabulous. Meanwhile, this hotel is very convenient for the town - it's just across the street from just about everything important: the National Palace, the tourist office, the Indian restaurant, the Hockey Caffee, the bus stop to the Pena and Moorish castles, and has convenient parking.
We visited the Palace first, saw many beautiful tiles and interesting architectural features. Unfortunately, the garden was closed to the public two years ago.
For dinner, we returned to the Hockey Caffee, where we had delicious octopus when we were here last (in 2000?). So we had Octopus Lagare E14; grilled sardines E12; 2 beers E6.60; bread, butter & olives E4 for a total E37. It was very good, but not as good as we remembered it - I guess you really can't go back.
Mon 26 May Pestana Palace Hotel
Mon 26 May- breakfast of coffee, apple and banana, found another cool, cloudy, rain-showery day outside.We stopped by the El Corte Ingles to get Kiyomi's watch fixed. It was done for free, but didn't last more than 3 days, because the part was wrong. We then continued on to our 34th anniversary "splurge", the Pestana Palace Hotel (http://www.pestana.com), with a (accidental) side trip across the Portuguese Golden Gate bridge. We checked in and explored the garden (another target) and the hotel interior. It's a beautiful, restored palace, 5-star and very plush.
We celebrated with a "splurge" dinner there: sand sole with lobster, sea scallopes, razor fish, ziti, curry and aromatic herbs; semi-sweet white wine; guinea fowl with coconut, corn, manioc & peanuts, chili, pepper and okra for a total of E65. The food was very good, and although it wasn't great, the ambience, fine china, art works all around, and feeling of royalty was great and made up for any shortcoming - we could definitely get used to it!
We celebrated with a "splurge" dinner there: sand sole with lobster, sea scallopes, razor fish, ziti, curry and aromatic herbs; semi-sweet white wine; guinea fowl with coconut, corn, manioc & peanuts, chili, pepper and okra for a total of E65. The food was very good, and although it wasn't great, the ambience, fine china, art works all around, and feeling of royalty was great and made up for any shortcoming - we could definitely get used to it!
Lisbon Botannical Garden of the University, Chiado and Baixa area
Sun 25 May- skipped breakfast, just had tea and sliced apple. Did some more Internet work.
We walked down the Avenida do Liberdade toward the Chiado and Baixa area. On the way, had lunch at the Restaurante Ribadouro: shellfish soup (like lobster bisque with shrimp, crab and other shellfish - salty but good) , the codfish special (grilled, then fileted and choppen, then mixed with shredded potato, cabbage and egg - very nice flavor) E9, tournedos of beef (fillet) with pepper sauce and french fries - really tender and delicious, Imperial draft beer, 2 cafe, total E32.
Continued the walk, stopping by a target garden, the Botannical Garden of the University. It was like a woods with all kinds of different trees, shrubs, etc. all quite mature (old and big).and all labeled with botannic name and origin. Made for a very pleasant, quiet and relaxing walk.
Continued down, stopping by a scenic viewpoint of the city, then arriving in the Chiado area where a department store had a Sephora outlet (where a clerk rudely made me delete the photo I took for Aya). Kiyomi restocked on her cosmetics, paying a whopping E225 without batting an eye. We had draft beer for E1 each from a fast food restaurant. Interestingly, most fast food- and cafe-type places have draft beer available inexpensively, along with the pop, coffee, tea and other beverages. We walked around the Baixa pedestrian area, admired the statues and monuments and all the street vendors, hawking a wide variety of goods, and on our way back up towards the Liberdade, we passed dozens of different restaurants in a two- or three-block strip near the theater, and just off the Liberdade.
We stopped by the Pingo Doce market where we spent E9 for salad, fruit, 3 chocolate bars, a bag of prunes and trail mix.
We walked down the Avenida do Liberdade toward the Chiado and Baixa area. On the way, had lunch at the Restaurante Ribadouro: shellfish soup (like lobster bisque with shrimp, crab and other shellfish - salty but good) , the codfish special (grilled, then fileted and choppen, then mixed with shredded potato, cabbage and egg - very nice flavor) E9, tournedos of beef (fillet) with pepper sauce and french fries - really tender and delicious, Imperial draft beer, 2 cafe, total E32.
Continued the walk, stopping by a target garden, the Botannical Garden of the University. It was like a woods with all kinds of different trees, shrubs, etc. all quite mature (old and big).and all labeled with botannic name and origin. Made for a very pleasant, quiet and relaxing walk.
Continued down, stopping by a scenic viewpoint of the city, then arriving in the Chiado area where a department store had a Sephora outlet (where a clerk rudely made me delete the photo I took for Aya). Kiyomi restocked on her cosmetics, paying a whopping E225 without batting an eye. We had draft beer for E1 each from a fast food restaurant. Interestingly, most fast food- and cafe-type places have draft beer available inexpensively, along with the pop, coffee, tea and other beverages. We walked around the Baixa pedestrian area, admired the statues and monuments and all the street vendors, hawking a wide variety of goods, and on our way back up towards the Liberdade, we passed dozens of different restaurants in a two- or three-block strip near the theater, and just off the Liberdade.
We stopped by the Pingo Doce market where we spent E9 for salad, fruit, 3 chocolate bars, a bag of prunes and trail mix.
Sat 24 May Estufa Fria and Estufa Quente gardens in Edward VII Park
Sat 24 May- after breakfast and packing, we headed for the Sheraton Lisboa in the heart of Lisbon. Being Saturday, we missed the weekday traffic. While awaiting our room, we went to the Estufa Fria and Estufa Quente gardens in the Edward VII Park, a nice walking distance from the hotel. The Fria was a large and interesting garden roofed with slats that gave an interesting pattern when the sun shone, while the Quenta was a greenhouse. We took shelter in the Quenta during one of the showers, and were impressed by the variety and health of the plants, many in full bloom. On the way back from the gardens, we stopped by El Corte Ingles, a chain of large department stores in Spain and Portugal. They carry most well-known international brands of shoes, clothes, cosmetics (including Sephora), watches, etc.
Back at the hotel we bought 24 hours Internet access, and caught up on email and research.
We went out for dinner to Restaurante O Campus, a nearby seafood restaurant: 1/2 bottle red wine E5, boiled fish roe with potato, broccoli and carrots E9.30, Pork Alentejano style (bite-size chunks with french fries, clams and shrimp) E8.80, bread & butter E2.25 for total E25.25. It was a somewhat disappointing meal, the roe was either old or strong, the pork was over-cooked, dry and over-salted. At least the bread and wine were good (sometimes the bread is stale and hard; this was fresh and still warm).
Back at the hotel we bought 24 hours Internet access, and caught up on email and research.
We went out for dinner to Restaurante O Campus, a nearby seafood restaurant: 1/2 bottle red wine E5, boiled fish roe with potato, broccoli and carrots E9.30, Pork Alentejano style (bite-size chunks with french fries, clams and shrimp) E8.80, bread & butter E2.25 for total E25.25. It was a somewhat disappointing meal, the roe was either old or strong, the pork was over-cooked, dry and over-salted. At least the bread and wine were good (sometimes the bread is stale and hard; this was fresh and still warm).
Fri 23 May Parque do Monteiro-Mor in Lumiar & Quinta do Azulejo
Fri 23 May- raining again! after breakfast we decided to visit the Parque do Monteiro-Mor in Lumiar, a few km from Queluz. The GPS took us the shortest way, through winding narrow streets and alleys, but got us to Lumiar eventually. Actually we parked just a few meters from the park to ask directions to it. It's a large park, begun in the 18th century, so the many trees are large and mature, some quite huge. A variety of flowers were blooming, and the many water fetures added interest. It started to rain, so we sheltered under a huge Araucaria Columnaris, which provided a dry area around its base. After the shower, we had a cafe until things cleared up, then continued walking around the garden. It was really nice, cool but not cold, and everything was freshened by the rain, which eventually stopped.
We then went to the 'Quinta do Azulejo', a school that used to be a mansion, which is famous for its tiles. We were amazed at the extent and beauty of the tiles at the school (which was in session), and wandered around taking photos and video in amazement of the beauty, wondering whether the students appreciated the art with which they were surrounded.
We had lunch at the local 'Restaurante Aguia', which had a limited 5-item menu of the day, but we had the 'robalo grelhado' (sea bass) E8.50 and the 'Carne Estufada' E5.50, a bottle of 'Tinto da Talha 2005 Requevale-Alentejanol' red wine E5.90 (a whole bottle of red wine), and 'arroz doce' (rice pudding) E1.50, so the total at E19.40 was a good value, because the fish was deliciously fresh and nicely grilled, and the beef was plentiful and tasty, served with french fries and rice, plus there was a salad served with the sea bass.
We then walked off the wine by going down a street of old deserted mansions, wondering why they would have been deserted and what was going to be done with them. After wandering around a while, we headed back to the car and returned to our pousada in Quelez the fast way by GPS, and it was certainly different from the way we came!
We then went to the 'Quinta do Azulejo', a school that used to be a mansion, which is famous for its tiles. We were amazed at the extent and beauty of the tiles at the school (which was in session), and wandered around taking photos and video in amazement of the beauty, wondering whether the students appreciated the art with which they were surrounded.
We had lunch at the local 'Restaurante Aguia', which had a limited 5-item menu of the day, but we had the 'robalo grelhado' (sea bass) E8.50 and the 'Carne Estufada' E5.50, a bottle of 'Tinto da Talha 2005 Requevale-Alentejanol' red wine E5.90 (a whole bottle of red wine), and 'arroz doce' (rice pudding) E1.50, so the total at E19.40 was a good value, because the fish was deliciously fresh and nicely grilled, and the beef was plentiful and tasty, served with french fries and rice, plus there was a salad served with the sea bass.
We then walked off the wine by going down a street of old deserted mansions, wondering why they would have been deserted and what was going to be done with them. After wandering around a while, we headed back to the car and returned to our pousada in Quelez the fast way by GPS, and it was certainly different from the way we came!
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