Monday, November 10, 2008

Mon 10 Nov- one last PT/INR adventure and shopping Barcelona

Mon 10 Nov- after breakfast of coffee, bananas and artichoke hearts, we left to find a place for Stan's PT/INR test. The local pharmacy referred me to a nearby hotel, the Hospital Clinic of Barcelona. Looking at the map, it wasn't far, so we walked there in about 20 minutes. We asked at the info desk, and were directed down the hall, but apparently passed the room and ended up where we got sent several different places. Finally, after asking several nurses and doctors, we were directed to the correct room, where we spent a few minutes with paperwork (very little, just date of birth, address, age, name, etc.). Then the test was very quick, a finger prick and the answer within minutes. Cost was E 21, about $30.
Then we were ready for lunch. We found a Tapas Bar restaurant, apparently a chain with several other locations including Mexico, and decided on a couple of draft beers and the seafood special 'Mariners Menu', consisting of: toast with garlic and tomato spread (similar to yesterdays, but already prepared - we preferred yesterday's); fried calamari; grilled cuttlefish with lettuce, tomato and carrot salad; garlic shrimp (shrimp and garlic cooked in olive oil; and steamed mussels; for a total cost of E 48.50.
After lunch it was off to La Rambla for last-minute shopping. Kiyomi found a Lottusse shop, apparently in business since 1877 that had very nice leather goods, so that's what we got. Gifts for the kids and a new belt for Stan. Kiyomi stopped by several other shops, investigating price and quality versus Italy and France. She decided leather is good in Spain and Italy; clothes and cashmere garments in Italy.
Back at the hotel we started preparing for our cruise home tomorrow.

Sun 09 Nov- a tour of Barcelona

Sun 09 Nov- a tour of Barcelona
Sun 09 Nov- after coffee, artichokes, tomatoes, banana and orange for breakfast, we set out to explore Barcelona, intending to go to the Montjuic to look at the gardens. Partway there we saw the open-top tourist bus that makes a circuit of Barcelona, going past all the important landmarks on the way. We decided to do it, for E 21 each. So we went around the Montjuic, then past the port and statue of Columbus. We got off the bus at La Rambla, the interesting pedestrian walkway that is lined with shops and performers. We got back on the bus at Placa Catalunya, which then took us past the (still unfinished) Sagrada Familia cathedral, and up to Park Guell, where we got off.
We had lunch at a local restaurant, Casa Manzanares, that turned out to be quite delicious, a pleasant surprise: 1/2 liter house rose wine, E 2.60; toast with garlic and tomato - you rub the garlic and tomato on the toast, then add some olive oil, and get a delicious appetizer, E 5; a calamari planch (tapas) - delicious squid, E 3.80; anchovy tapas E 3; pimientos padron tapas, E 3.50; Mediterranean pizza E 6.90; green mixed salad E 3.25; and 2 espressos after the meal, E 2.50; all that food for E 30.55.
We waddled up to the Park Guell to walk off some of the calories, enjoying the sunny cool 17-18 C day, with nice views of Barcelona and some of Gaudi's designs in the park.
We got back on the bus, which then went past the sport stadium and down the Avinguda Diagonal, lined with shops, banks and other businesses, and finally back to the hotel. We checked the Internet in preparation for two weeks with limited access, then read our books.

Sat 08 Nov- to Barcelona, Spain; Hotel Torre Catalunya

Sat 08 Nov- after a leisurely cup of American coffee, we checked out of the Hotel Grand Florence and went to the airport. The cab was E25 for the 20 minute ride to the small Florence A. Vespucci airport. We checked our luggage in to the Meridiana Airlines counter, breathing a sigh of relief that there was no extra charge (we were 1 kg over the allowance). Then we went through security with our carry-on bags, expecting them to be weighed, but they just did the inspection without weighing us in. Another sigh of relief.
We were early, so decided to have a light lunch at the airport's MyChef snack bar. Kiyomi had the menu 1 pasta for E 8.80, which included a salad, spaghetti and a soft drink; Stan had a piece of chocolate cake. The spaghetti was made from fresh pasta - we watched the counter personnel make more pasta and put it into microwavable containers for heating. It was actually pretty good; apparently it is difficult to get bad pasta in Italy, because the place would be boycotted. The flight left on time, and arrived in Barcelona on time.
We took a taxi after collecting our checked luggage to the Grand Hotel Torre Catalunya, a modern high-rise hotel next to the Barcelona Sants station (we could have taken the airport bus and arrived just across the street instead of the 40+ euro taxi). Our room on the 14th floor has a beautiful view toward the Mediterranean and Mount Montjuic. We can see the cruise ships in the harbor; we might be able to watch the Regatta arrive on the 11th.
We had dinner in the hotel's <isual Restaurant Panoramic (that's a horizontal V, at first I thought it was a C!), which has a restaurant on the top floor where it has a spectacular view of Barcelona. They have a very interesting menu selection; we had a nice white wine; then a small glass of a seafood puree with anise and gelatin that had a taste more like mild mushrooms; Kiyomi had 'Iberian suckling pig with cooked peach with passion fruit and vanilla oil' that was tender with a crispy skin; Stan had 'Guinea fowl cannelloni with sauce of foie in the truffle perfume, chestnut puree, rocks of herbs bread and a black beer reduction' that was an unexpectedly delicious combination of ingredients; then a plate of interesting petit fours to finish the meal. Total cost was E 67.70; but the ambience, the view, and the interesting cuisine made it worthwhile.

Fri 07 Nov- shopping and our Italian farewell dinner

Fri 07 Nov- we had a cup of coffee in the breakfast area of the Hotel Grand Florence so we could admire the beautiful architecture and decoration/renovation that makes this a 'Luxury Collection' property. It really is a beautiful interior.
Kiyomi wanted to spend our last day shopping, so we walked around the old town area.
We had lunch at a local cafe: 1/2 bottle 'Chianti Colli Senesi' S. Quirico 2006 wine (E 8.50); 'calabra', a toast with artichokes (E 5); spaghetti vongole (E 10); couvert (bread that you get charged for, whether you want it or not); 2 espresso (E 3); total E 37. We continued shopping, stopping in at Hermes, Ferragamo's, Laura Piano, and others. Kiyomi found a nice pair of shoes to match her coat, and a shirt for Stan, and found out it was a good thing she bought her Tanino Crisci coat in Milan, because the store in Florence did not have any left.
In the evening we were invited to a family reunion with Ragnhild's family they were staying with. We went to the Villamagna restaurant in the hills above Florence where we had a variety plate of antipasto (4 kinds of prosciutto and bologna, cheese, toast with chicken liver pate), 2 huge pizzas with 4 different toppings (cheese, prosciutto, meat, zucchini & eggplant); and several different kinds of pasta. Everything was wonderful, and we had a great time communicating in several languages. Kiyomi was speaking in Spanish, Ragnhild and here relatives were speaking Italian and English, Roland sometimes spoke Swedish as well as Italian. Stan was strictly English. It was lots of fun figuring out what the others were saying, and trying to answer. Everyone was so friendly and happy that the atmosphere was so pleasant we didn't want the evening to end. It was definitely a high point of our travels. Meeting with the local people and communicating over a meal is one of the best parts of traveling; that's what we've noticed everywhere we've been.

Thu 06 Nov- Galleria dell 'Accademia and Galleria d'Uffizi

Thu 06 Nov- after our buffet breakfast, we walked past several cathedrals and through a very picturesque part of town to the Galleria dell'Accademia. This is where the 'David' by Michelangelo is on display, and was a 'must-see' for Kiyomi. It is a beautiful work. Other displays at the Accademia were of old religious art - annunciations, adorations of the babe, crucifixions, martyrdom of saints, etc., some of which were quite beautiful and spiritual, some revolting, some forgettable. The room full of plaster casts of older Roman sculptures were much more interesting; lots of very nude male and female gods, goddesses, fauns, nymphs, etc. with very nice proportions. We were surprised that the very strictly Roman Catholic society would allow such a display of nudity, especially in the same gallery as all the religious art.
We then walked back past the duomo and several other churches and cathedrals to the Londra where we checked out and moved to the Hotel Grand Florence, a 5-star Starwood Luxury Collection hotel right on the Arno River. Our room was on the 4th floor and had a great view over the piazza and the river toward the southeast.
We had our lunch at the hotel: bread sticks served with Ornellaia extra virgin oil; sparkling water (carbonated); Stan had chard flan with melting Pecorino cheese; Kiyomi had spaghetti with artichokes and a draft beer. It was quite tasty, but a bit expensive.
After lunch we walked along the river to the to the

Wed 05 Nov- Villa Gamberaia

Wed 05 Nov- after our buffet breakfast and learning Obama had won the election, we asked the hotel to print the tickets to the Galleria dell Accademia and Uffizi Galleria that we will visit tomorrow. We had bought advance tickets through the Internet to ensure entry, and to avoid the possibility of long lines (even in this off-season time, the lines at the Uffizi can be quite long).
We met with Roland and Ragnhild and they drove us to the Villa Gamberaia, located on the hillside of Settignano, a suburb of Florence, with extraordinary views of Florence and the surrounding Arno valley. It was built in the early Seventeenth century and been renovated after WWII.
After the garden, Kiyomi and Ragnhild decided to visit Pittarello, a shoe store near Prato in Sesto Fiorentino. We drove to the town and had lunch at the Opera Cafe, a modern snack shop with a piano theme that served good fusili pasta with clam sauce and shrimp curry rice. After lunch the ladies looked at the hundreds of different women's shoes in many styles - boots, heels, pumps, ballet, exercise, etc. while Stan and Roland looked at the men's shoes. Another popular shoe store near Prato we skipped was Scarpe & Scarpe, which apparently also has a huge assortment at reasonable prices.
Back at the Londra's Garden Lounge Restaurant, for dinner we had 'Montecarlo Rosso 2007' red wine; a ham quiche appetizer and welcome champagne; linguine alle vongole veraci' (linguine with clam sauce); 'zuppa di verdure invernali' (winter vegetable soup with carrots, beans, peas, potato and cabbage). It was quite good, cost E 33.

Tue 04 Nov- Vinci: birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci

http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)

Tue 04 Nov- after our buffet breakfast, we met with Roland and Ragnhild for a day in the countryside. They took us to Vinci, the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci.
We had lunch at the Restaurant Leonardo (many shops and other buildings have names related to Leonardo da Vinci, like the Mona Lisa Hotel, etc.) We had 'Sangiovese Toscano in purezza 2007', a wine bottled locally for the restaurant, and the 'menu of the day for tourists and workers': spaghetti with clams (Kiyomi, Roland & Ragnhild); minestrone soup (Stan); grilled meat (Roland and Stan) and salad (Roland and Ragnhild). Afterwards we drove up the road to see the birthplace. It was interesting to see the farmhouse where he was born almost 600 years ago; even more amazing, it is still there, pretty much as it was, after being restored and donated to the town and endowed so visitors can enter free. On the way from the parking lot we admired the view of the Tuscan countryside, with olive trees full of olives ready for harvest. After the visit, we stopped by an olive pressing coop, where local olive growers brought their olives to be pressed for the 'nouvelle' virgin oil, the first pressing of the olives. The oil came out a fluorescent green, quite vivid compared to the later refined product we see in the stores.
In the evening we watched some of the early reporting of the presidential election, and skipped dinner.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Mon 03 Nov- Florence on a rainy day

Mon 03 Nov- after breakfast and a short walk to the tourist office in a light rain and cool 18-19 C temperature, we investigated the possibilities for visiting. Today most of the interesting places are closed, so we'll have to visit from tomorrow.
We had lunch at the Londra's restaurant: 'Buonamico Montecarlo' 2007 white wine; Kiyomi had linguine with clams; Stan had hamburger with fries and pickled veggies. The rain came and went as we were investigating, so we didn't venture out.
In the evening we met with Roland and Ragnhild Edstrom (Roland is a 'cousin' who lives in Sweden, but is visiting Ragnhild's Italian relatives near Florence). It was great to see them again after many years; they are very nice relatives. Roland drove to a town above Florence (using a borrowed Tom-Tom GPS), where we had a lively discussion and catch-up of news, plus dinner: a nice Chianti wine and fizzy water; an antipasto variety plate; Stan had the delicious lasagne while everyone else had a wonderful linguine with fresh mushrooms.
After dinner we took a walk to the viewpoint where we looked down on Florence with a dramatic pattern of foggy and clear view.

Sun 02 Nov- Florence, American WWII Cemetery, Piazzale Michelangelo, farewell dinner #3

Sun 02 Nov- after breakfast we departed for Florence. On the way, we stopped by the Florence American Cemetery and Memorial site (http://www.abmc.gov/cemeteries/cemeteries/fl.php) to pay respects and remember the lives lost in Italy during the latter part of WWII. More than 5800 are interred here, the ones not returned to the US for burial. We were reminded of our Viking Cruise visit to the American Cemetery in northeast France, where 'Battle of the Bulge' victims of World War I are buried.
On the way to the hotel we stopped at the famous scenic view of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo, and where the bronze copy of Michelangelo's 'David' is located. It is indeed a lovely view, and the sky was clear and blue, the temperature a warm 22-23 C.
Then we checked in to our 'Hotel Londra', and immediately left to visit the 'Giardino di Boboli' located at the 'Palazzo Pitti', a short taxi rides from the hotel. We had a snack at the Caffe on Piaxxa Pitti, just across the street from the Pitti Palace, of beer, spaghetti and salad.
We enjoyed walking around the huge garden/park for several hours, admiring the statues, fountains, views of Florence and the surrounding countryside, and an extensive collection of 18th and 19th Century porcelains. There are some really beautiful patterns; I guess this was the Medici family collection.
After the garden, we walked back to the hotel over the 'Ponte Vecchio' (bridge over the Arno River) famous for the goldsmiths' shops lining both sides, so you can hardly see the river. We continued walking past the 'Galleria Gli Uffzii', the 'Piazza del Duomo', the 'Santa Maria Novella', and many, many shops of all kinds. There were crowds of people out; it was Sunday and a really nice day, so everyone was taking advantage.
For our Farwell Dinner #3 at the hotel we had: red wine Montecarlo 'Il Borghetto' 2006; pasta with a cream sauce flavored with bits of ham; risotto with meat sauce and peas; turkey with gravy and baby boiled carrots; a lettuce with oil & vinegar salad; flan for dessert; a champagne toast following dessert; and a 'discovery' cookie characteristic of the region. We spent a long time saying goodbyes and wishing well to our traveling companions of the last 16 days. Many go back to the USA tomorrow, though some are continuing in Europe for a while longer.

Sat 01 Nov- Montepulciano, farewell dinner #2

Sat 01 Nov- after the buffet breakfast, the sun was shining and the temperature was a comfortable 16-17 C, so we joined the GCT bus trip to a nearby hilltop town Montepulciano about 2000 feet above sea level. Most of the group went, and we again passed through beautiful Tuscan countryside, up to the town. We walked up, up, up to the main piazza, enjoyed the view of the countryside through the clouds that were starting to cover the hilltop. Then walked down, down, down to the bus pickup area. We thought about tasting the famous 'Vino Nobile' local wine, but decided not to. We did stop by several of the interesting shops. After our exercise, we stopped into a small cafe/bar for cappuccino, only E1.50 each, and looked at the Italian version of 'People Magazine'.
Back at the Ambasciatori Hotel, we finished off the fruit, tomatoes and wine for snack. Then Kiyomi had a Shiatsu massage while Stan read and worked on the computer. To Kiyomi's great surprise, the masseuse turned out to be a man; but she said he was very skillful, and was from Opatija, Croatia so they had something to talk about.
For our farewell dinner #2 we had: a fantastic buffet with many different dishes characteristic of the local cuisine; 'Palazzo Bandino Toscana' red wine; spiced [with little peppercorns] meat of the Impruneto; spaghetti with tomato and meat sauce; 'zuppa inglese (trifle)' for dessert.

Fri 31 Oct- Acqua Santa Therme, farewell dinner #1

Fri 31 Oct- Acqua Santa Therme, farewell dinner #1
Fri 31 Oct- after the buffet breakfast, we checked the weather, but it was still chilly and windy, so we stayed in, working and reading. For a light lunch at the hotel we had Gavioli 2007 'Castellaro Chardonnay di Toscana', a local wine; spaghetti with garlic oil, cappuccino and a caramel creme dessert.
After lunch it cleared up and was 15-16 C, so we took a walk past the numerous shops and cafes to the Acqua Santa Therme (spa: http://www.termechianciano.it/in Italian), a large park that was almost deserted, but was very pleasant to stroll through the grounds. There was a large area where people could sit and drink the water, which is reputed to be good for liver and kidney problems. The park was somewhat hibernating for winter, but we could see that it would be very nice in the spring and summer. Walking back, we found a bookstore that had lots of garden books, but unfortunately, all were in Italian.
Dinner was an included trip to 'Il Casale', a local restaurant for the first of three farewell dinners: local red house wine; tostino (toast) with various toppings-chopped tomato, chicken liver pate, olive pesto; delicious minestrone soup; chicken roast and port steak; zucchini and eggplant; a delicious tiramisu for dessert.

Thu 30 Oct- relaxing in Chianciano

Thu 30 Oct- after buffet breakfast, the sky cleared and the temperature was a pleasant 16-17 C, so we walked around Chianciano, where we got some fresh fruit and tomatoes from a small market. As it started clouding over and a chill wind picked up, we headed back to the hotel to read (Stan continued reading an anthology 'Predators', a gory gruesome collection of horror stories about predators and their victims), Kiyomi did some work and watched tennis on the Eurosport channel. As it started to rain heavily, we were glad to relax in our hotel room, where it was warm and dry.
For lunch and dinner we snacked on the fruit and tomatoes we'd bought earlier.

Wed 29 Oct- Archaeological Etruscan Museum, Val d'Orcia, Radicofani, lunch at an agriturismo farmhouse

Wed 29 Oct- after our buffet breakfast we left on a tour of the Tuscan Val d'Orcia, Orcia Valley. It's the home of the Etruscans, who predated the Romans, and the site of the book 'Under the Tuscan Sun'.
We visited the Archaeological Etruscan Museum "Delle Acque" in Chianciano Therme (http://www.chianciano-terme.info/museoetruscodelleacque/indexe.php) that features Etruscan artifacts dug up in the surrounding area. Apparently they cremated their dead, and put the ashes into a 'canopic', which is usually in the shape of a head or house. The pediment ruins of an Etruscan Temple which dates back to the 2nd century B.C. was the featured display.
Then we continued to Radicofani, driving through typical Tuscany countryside, with roads lined with cypress trees, to the hilltop town, which was enveloped in clouds as we approached. We walked through the town, visiting the church with its unique art.
We had lunch at an agriturismo farmhouse: red house wine, pecorino cheese, various characteristic hors d'ouvres (spicy tomato, sausage, hard boiled egg, chicken liver pate on toast slices); minestrone soup with black cabbage, beans garbanzo beans in a thick delicious stock; homemade pasta with tomato and meat sauce; mixed salad (served after the main course and before dessert, as is customary here); delicious tiramisu for dessert.
Although the sky was cloudy and there was occasional rain, the countryside still had a beauty that was perhaps enhanced by the weather.

Tue 28 Oct- Furlo Gorge, Trasimene Lake, Chianciano

Tue 28 Oct- after the buffet breakfast we departed for Chianciano. On the way we stopped by Furlo Gorge, famous as being a stopping point for Mussolini as he traveled between his home and Rome on the ancient Etruscan, then Roman road known as the Flaminian Way. After a snack of cheese and other goodies, we saw the room in which Mussolini often ate meals as he stopped by; and we heard many anecdotes of the innkeeper's experiences with 'Il Duce' there are many photos and mementos of his better days.
Later Stan had a flashback to his university days when we passed by where the Battle of the Trasimene Lake (217 BCE) took place. It was a major Roman defeat by Hannibal during the Second Punic War. It's amazing how much history is in this area of Italy.
We continued on to Chianciano Therme, a conveniently located town famous for water that is good for the liver and kidneys (http://www.termechianciano.it/index.en.php).
For the included welcome drink and dinner we had: 'Palazzo Bandino' Toscana red wine; a hors d'oeuvres buffet that could have been an entire meal in itself, with all kinds of vegetables, meats, salad fixings, etc.; roast pork loin in curry sauce; mashed potatoes; coffee parfait ice cream.

Mon 27 Oct- San Marino and its castles

Mon 27 Oct- after the buffet breakfast, we decided to take a walk to see the most interesting features of San Marino: the castles above the town that are part of the republic's crest. It was a sunny cool 18-19 C, warm in the sun but cool in the shade with the wind. We walked to the several viewpoints on the way to the castles, enjoying the magnificent view of San Marino (city and republic) and Italy. The walk up to the castles was very pleasant, the air was fresh and cool but not chilly and the views were awesome. We did not go into the castles since they were museums dedicated to weapons of war.
We had a light lunch at a pizzeria: beer, cappuccino, cafe, spaghetti with clams and mixed salad, all for E 21.20. It was more than enough to tide us over to dinner, which is included in our tour.
The afternoon cooled off and got cloudy, so we stayed in the hotel, working and reading.
For our included dinner at the hotel, we had a nice bottle of red wine on the table, pasta with meat sauce, veal with gravy, potatoes and green beans, gelato for dessert. We had a relaxing supper chatting with other members of the tour.