Sun 26 Oct- after breakfast we departed by bus at 8:30 am. We stopped by Spilamberto, a town famous for balsamico (balsamic vinegar, but not the grocery store kind). The museum showed the process of making traditional balsamico, culminating in a minimum 25-year aged product that sells for hundreds of dollars per pint. It's a real chemical process, starting from the 4 kinds of grapes used, the cooking process, the different kinds of wood used in the set of barrels as the liquid ages. The 12-year aged product was offered to us for tasting, about 2-3 ml on a spoon. It did not smell at all like vinegar and tasted and looked more like a somewhat tart brown gravy.
For lunch we went to the San Pellegrino Restaurant and had: the local red sparkling wine; gnocchi puff pastry flash fried in oil so it puffs up like a balloon; home-made hand-crafted tortellini in chicken broth; mashed potato and turkey with balsamico gravy & stewed onion; assorted pastries and espresso or grappa for dessert.
We crossed the Rubicon River, made famous when Julius Caesar crossed it with his legions and led to his downfall at the Ides of March.
We left Italy and entered the oldest republic, the Republic of San Marino, then climbed Mt. Titano to the town San Marino at an altitude of 2200 feet. We checked into the Grand Hotel San Marino; our room was large and comfortable with a great view of the surrounding countryside. We took a walk around the town, admiring the view of the countryside and becoming acquainted with the landmarks of San Marino.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Sat 25 Oct- a working and relaxing day; dinner at Lido Restaurant
Sat 25 Oct- after breakfast, it was still a foggy cool 16-17 C day, so we decided to stay at the hotel. We had decided to skip the optional tour, but were considering visiting another garden near Venice. Instead, Kiyomi worked while Stan continued reading. In the afternoon it warmed up a bit and the sky cleared, so we took a walk for cappuccino and small (200 ml) beer; the cost was E 5.20.
Back at the hotel, we enjoyed the thermal pools again.
For dinner we decided to return to the Lido to try another pasta dish; some of them served to other customers looked delicious. We tried 1/2 liter house white wine, a mixed salad, a dish of grilled vegetables (zucchini and eggplant), spaghetti with clams and gamberetti & vongole (shrimp & clam) pizza. We were again pleased by the quality, quantity and price.
Since we move to San Marino tomorrow, we spent time packing because wake-up is 6:30 am.
Back at the hotel, we enjoyed the thermal pools again.
For dinner we decided to return to the Lido to try another pasta dish; some of them served to other customers looked delicious. We tried 1/2 liter house white wine, a mixed salad, a dish of grilled vegetables (zucchini and eggplant), spaghetti with clams and gamberetti & vongole (shrimp & clam) pizza. We were again pleased by the quality, quantity and price.
Since we move to San Marino tomorrow, we spent time packing because wake-up is 6:30 am.
Fri 24 Oct- Villa Barbarigo, Valsanzibio
Fri 24 Oct- after the buffet breakfast we took a walk to pick up the ironing (E5 for two shirts), then walked through a park with walks lined by gingko trees starting to change to gold. It reminds us again summer is over, but the weather is still pleasant, 15 C with sunny blue sky. Back at the Helvetia, Kiyomi worked and Stan, having finished 'Weep No More, My Lady', started reading 'The Pillow Book of Lady Wisteria' (in feudal Japan, passion and secrets lead to murder...) by Laura Joh Rowland, apparently the latest mystery to be solved by Sano Ichiro and his wife Reiko.
In the afternoon we visited a nearby garden at Villa Barbarigo near Valsanzibio (http://www.valsanzibiogiardino.it). It was built in 1669 with a symbolic meaning to the path expressed in fountains, ponds, gates, sculptures, a maze, an island and plants. It was restored to original plan over the last 80 years by the current owners. It was well worth the trip and admission; we spent two hours wandering around the trails and paths, admiring the beauty and serenity of the garden.
We enjoyed the thermal pools again after returning to the Helvetia.
For dinner we went to the nearby Lido Restaurant, and were pleasantly surprised by the quality, quantity and price. We had 1/2 liter house white wine, a mixed salad (lettuce, tomato and shredded carrot), a dish of grilled vegetables (zucchini and eggplant), an order of linguini 'Lido' style (squid, tomato sauce and mushrooms), and a quattro stagnione pizza; total bill was E 26, reasonable compared to other restaurants considering the high quality.
In the afternoon we visited a nearby garden at Villa Barbarigo near Valsanzibio (http://www.valsanzibiogiardino.it). It was built in 1669 with a symbolic meaning to the path expressed in fountains, ponds, gates, sculptures, a maze, an island and plants. It was restored to original plan over the last 80 years by the current owners. It was well worth the trip and admission; we spent two hours wandering around the trails and paths, admiring the beauty and serenity of the garden.
We enjoyed the thermal pools again after returning to the Helvetia.
For dinner we went to the nearby Lido Restaurant, and were pleasantly surprised by the quality, quantity and price. We had 1/2 liter house white wine, a mixed salad (lettuce, tomato and shredded carrot), a dish of grilled vegetables (zucchini and eggplant), an order of linguini 'Lido' style (squid, tomato sauce and mushrooms), and a quattro stagnione pizza; total bill was E 26, reasonable compared to other restaurants considering the high quality.
Thu 23 Oct- Abano, Hotel Helvetia's thermal pool & candlelight dinner
Thu 23 Oct- after breakfast, we decided to take a walk around Abano, have some clothes ironed, buy toothpaste and AA batteries while we walked. There is a nice pedestrian zone next to our Hotel Helvetia, so we walked around it as we took care of our shopping. There are many hotels, since Abano is famous for thermal springs since Roman times. There are many upscale brand-name shops selling jewelry, clothes, souvenirs, shoes - the usual 'old town' businesses.
We had nice draft beer (E 8) at the 'City Bar' cafe as we looked over information from the Tourist Office, deciding whether to visit a garden if it's nice tomorrow. There are several nearby, but only one is open when we will be able to visit.
When we returned to the Helvetia, we decided to try its thermal pools (inside and outside, connected by a swim-through passage). The water was pleasantly warm, so we could stay in for more than an hour without getting too hot or cool.
GCT had arranged a candlelight dinner with music, so at 7:30 pm we went down to enjoy it. They served: Paoni Colli Euganei red wine; aubergine (eggplant) pie with parmesan cheese; risotto with Bassano asparagus; swordfish with croutons, bread and spinach; green apple sherbet to cleanse the palate; glazed leg of pork with honey and potato Mont Blanc (mashed potato); and King tart for dessert. It was a very enjoyable and tasty meal. The pork was brought out through the darkened room in a parade lit by sparklers. The King tart was a cake with fruit embedded and topped with whipped cream.
We had nice draft beer (E 8) at the 'City Bar' cafe as we looked over information from the Tourist Office, deciding whether to visit a garden if it's nice tomorrow. There are several nearby, but only one is open when we will be able to visit.
When we returned to the Helvetia, we decided to try its thermal pools (inside and outside, connected by a swim-through passage). The water was pleasantly warm, so we could stay in for more than an hour without getting too hot or cool.
GCT had arranged a candlelight dinner with music, so at 7:30 pm we went down to enjoy it. They served: Paoni Colli Euganei red wine; aubergine (eggplant) pie with parmesan cheese; risotto with Bassano asparagus; swordfish with croutons, bread and spinach; green apple sherbet to cleanse the palate; glazed leg of pork with honey and potato Mont Blanc (mashed potato); and King tart for dessert. It was a very enjoyable and tasty meal. The pork was brought out through the darkened room in a parade lit by sparklers. The King tart was a cake with fruit embedded and topped with whipped cream.
Wed 22 Oct- Padova and E'Orto Botanico del l'Universita di Padova
Wed 22 Oct- We got up at 6:45 to join the GCT tour of Padova (Padua), home of the second oldest university in Europe. We saw where the first autopsies were performed for would-be doctors. The university's walls were covered with the coats-of-arms of the students who attended. Apparently Galileo taught here for many years; as well as Copernicus and Vesalius. After that, we visited the "E'Orto Botanico del l'Universita di Padova", the botanical garden used by the students of the University of Padua. It had many different plants, all nicely identified with the Latin name and Italian name. It was not a formal type garden, however; it is really a reference work for the students. The walk was pleasant after the hustle and bustle of the city center with the university. We stopped by the open air market and picked up some grapes and tomatoes for snack tonight, since dinner is not included
We had a pizza, beer and cappuccino (E 11) in the 'Caffe Cavour' in the Piazza Cavour near the university, watching the people go about their business until it was time to board the GCT bus back to Abano.
There was a lecture 'Italian with and without words' lecture given by Lucio. He gave us a history of the Italian language as it evolved from Latin, and gave us tips on proper pronunciation. Then he told us many interesting anecdotes and examples of silent communication by gestures and facial expressions, including some very impolite gestures he warned us NOT to use. Following his lecture, a recent Padova graduate talked about the current affairs in Italy, and how things have changed since becoming an EU member and adopting the Euro.
We went to the nearby 'Cafe Milano' where we had pasta and ravioli, plus draft 'Birra Forst Spa Merano' Pils beer (since 1857, http://www.forst.it), currently and Italian beer, but formerly Austrian when the Austro-Hungarian empire held sway. Anyway, it was quite good, as were the pasta and ravioli.
We found the Internet to be available at the Helvetia, but at E 6 ($10)/hour, rather expensive. It's hard to understand why some hotels charge so much, and some provide it free. We've started using free Internet as a criterion when looking for accommodations.
We had a pizza, beer and cappuccino (E 11) in the 'Caffe Cavour' in the Piazza Cavour near the university, watching the people go about their business until it was time to board the GCT bus back to Abano.
There was a lecture 'Italian with and without words' lecture given by Lucio. He gave us a history of the Italian language as it evolved from Latin, and gave us tips on proper pronunciation. Then he told us many interesting anecdotes and examples of silent communication by gestures and facial expressions, including some very impolite gestures he warned us NOT to use. Following his lecture, a recent Padova graduate talked about the current affairs in Italy, and how things have changed since becoming an EU member and adopting the Euro.
We went to the nearby 'Cafe Milano' where we had pasta and ravioli, plus draft 'Birra Forst Spa Merano' Pils beer (since 1857, http://www.forst.it), currently and Italian beer, but formerly Austrian when the Austro-Hungarian empire held sway. Anyway, it was quite good, as were the pasta and ravioli.
We found the Internet to be available at the Helvetia, but at E 6 ($10)/hour, rather expensive. It's hard to understand why some hotels charge so much, and some provide it free. We've started using free Internet as a criterion when looking for accommodations.
Tue 21 Oct- Sirmione on Lake Garda, Abano and Hotel Helvetia
Tue 21 Oct- after getting up at 6:15, we had a nice buffet breakfast and then departed for Abano. On the way, we stopped by the ancient town of Sirmione, located on a promontory that stick far out into Lake Garda. We had a snack at a little cafe-bar on a side-street of Sirmione on Lake Garda. It was cool and cloudy, but pleasant to walk around.
We ordered a light lunch of a Margherita pizza and two kinds of Lugana wine, a specialty of the region. The wine was very pleasant, not too dry but with a nice taste that complemented the pizza.
Our GCT 'discovery' was 'Pocket Coffee', a few milliliters of espresso in a chocolate shell. When you bite down, the espresso squirts out, then the chocolate combines with the taste to be really good. Stan bought 2 5-packs at the next stop at E 1.70 each. This is a cool-weather product, not available in the summer; and not recommended to be kept in pockets, despite the name.
Shortly after arrival at the Hotel Helvetia, we were taken on an introductory stroll through Abano, famous as a spa ('therme') town.
Dinner started with a fantastic appetizer buffet, which had enough different selections to be the whole meal: all kinds of fish, shellfish, octopus salad, shrimp, scallops, etc.; plus many vegetables including artichoke hearts, green beans, asparagus, spinach, etc; and green salad fixings with different dressings. After filling up on the buffet, we were served seafood risotto, washed down by the mineral water and red wine set on the table; after that, they served fish with boiled potato; and then finally a wonderful custard/vanilla pudding in delicate flaky pastry.
We ordered a light lunch of a Margherita pizza and two kinds of Lugana wine, a specialty of the region. The wine was very pleasant, not too dry but with a nice taste that complemented the pizza.
Our GCT 'discovery' was 'Pocket Coffee', a few milliliters of espresso in a chocolate shell. When you bite down, the espresso squirts out, then the chocolate combines with the taste to be really good. Stan bought 2 5-packs at the next stop at E 1.70 each. This is a cool-weather product, not available in the summer; and not recommended to be kept in pockets, despite the name.
Shortly after arrival at the Hotel Helvetia, we were taken on an introductory stroll through Abano, famous as a spa ('therme') town.
Dinner started with a fantastic appetizer buffet, which had enough different selections to be the whole meal: all kinds of fish, shellfish, octopus salad, shrimp, scallops, etc.; plus many vegetables including artichoke hearts, green beans, asparagus, spinach, etc; and green salad fixings with different dressings. After filling up on the buffet, we were served seafood risotto, washed down by the mineral water and red wine set on the table; after that, they served fish with boiled potato; and then finally a wonderful custard/vanilla pudding in delicate flaky pastry.
Mon 20 Oct- Cernobbio, Hotel Regina Olga, Villa d'Este
Mon 20 Oct- we enjoyed the included buffet breakfast at the Villa Serbelloni, the coffee made fresh for us, and the nice selection of items, then took a leisurely walk around the Serbelloni gardens again, then got ready to leave to join our GCT tour group at the Hotel Regina Olga in Cernobbio. We went by limo, a lovely one hour drive along Lake Como, usually several hundred feet above the lake itself, with a beautiful panoramic view of the lake and the towns and mountains on the opposite side.
On arriving at the Regina Olga, we were pleased to be met by our GCT Tour Guide, Lucio, who was expecting us, and assigned us a very nice room with a terrace. After settling in, we went for a walk and came upon Villa d'Este. Our limo driver had recommended it, so we decided to visit: the 'admission' was to have a drink and/or snack at the bar; so we sprang for two E10 ($14) Nastro Azzuro beers, and were glad we did. The garden was quite nice: it was designed to climb up the hill, toward a statue of Hercules, featuring a very long cascade falling from the statue down to the beginning of the path up, which featured very erotic mosaics, bas relief and statues.
We returned to the hotel and enjoyed the welcome champagne drink, white wine and the special dinner prepared for the GCT group: penne pasta with white cheese sauce, loin of veal with herbs and veal with chard and potato, and delicious meneghina sponge cake with cream custard for dessert. We met some of the group who will be our companions for the next 10 days or so.
On arriving at the Regina Olga, we were pleased to be met by our GCT Tour Guide, Lucio, who was expecting us, and assigned us a very nice room with a terrace. After settling in, we went for a walk and came upon Villa d'Este. Our limo driver had recommended it, so we decided to visit: the 'admission' was to have a drink and/or snack at the bar; so we sprang for two E10 ($14) Nastro Azzuro beers, and were glad we did. The garden was quite nice: it was designed to climb up the hill, toward a statue of Hercules, featuring a very long cascade falling from the statue down to the beginning of the path up, which featured very erotic mosaics, bas relief and statues.
We returned to the hotel and enjoyed the welcome champagne drink, white wine and the special dinner prepared for the GCT group: penne pasta with white cheese sauce, loin of veal with herbs and veal with chard and potato, and delicious meneghina sponge cake with cream custard for dessert. We met some of the group who will be our companions for the next 10 days or so.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Sun 19 Oct- the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni
Sun 19 Oct- after breakfast we packed and moved to the 5-star Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, just a few meters north of Hotel Metropole.
After checking in, we wandered through the gardens. They are not very impressive or large, but they were pleasant to view, and we got some nice photos and video. We found the Internet connection was not free, but was pretty reasonable - E10 for 99 hours. It would have been a better deal if we were going to be there several days, rather than just overnight. There were no English language newspapers, surprising for a 3-star, unforgivable for a 5-star hotel. There was a very nice plasma TV in the room the got CNN and CNBC, among others, so that somewhat made up for the lack of newspapers.
Then we had lunch at the restaurant, beer (bottled, unfortunately they don't have draft beer available), a large bottle of water, spaghetti with clams and ravioli with meat stuffing and mushroom sauce. The view from the restaurant was a panorama of Lake Como and the far side of the lake, on a beautiful somewhat hazy day, cool 17-18 C, but the restaurant was glassed-in with floor to ceiling windows. The food was excellent, really good home-made pasta and ravioli; the service and settings were impeccable, as expected for a 5-star restaurant; but the price was E62 (almost $100, good for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but I would not make a habit).
We used the Internet to check transportation and accommodations for Florence and Barcelona, the last stage of our trip before the cruise home. We could go by ferry, a 20-hour trip from Livorno (an hour-and-a-half from Florence), or train (about 24 hours, with a change or two at odd times), or by air (one-and-a-half nonstop via Meridiana).
Luggage is the big issue - we have too much for the allowed air transport, and too much for the train to be convenient. The ferry might be OK, but 20 hours is a long time, and the port is not convenient. We're leaning toward the flight, though we'll have to pay an extra $100 or more in excess baggage charge.
We listened to the live music by a 3-piece band (piano, violin and string bass) in the large sitting room that adjoins the restaurant, enjoying an evening drink and very nice music.
After checking in, we wandered through the gardens. They are not very impressive or large, but they were pleasant to view, and we got some nice photos and video. We found the Internet connection was not free, but was pretty reasonable - E10 for 99 hours. It would have been a better deal if we were going to be there several days, rather than just overnight. There were no English language newspapers, surprising for a 3-star, unforgivable for a 5-star hotel. There was a very nice plasma TV in the room the got CNN and CNBC, among others, so that somewhat made up for the lack of newspapers.
Then we had lunch at the restaurant, beer (bottled, unfortunately they don't have draft beer available), a large bottle of water, spaghetti with clams and ravioli with meat stuffing and mushroom sauce. The view from the restaurant was a panorama of Lake Como and the far side of the lake, on a beautiful somewhat hazy day, cool 17-18 C, but the restaurant was glassed-in with floor to ceiling windows. The food was excellent, really good home-made pasta and ravioli; the service and settings were impeccable, as expected for a 5-star restaurant; but the price was E62 (almost $100, good for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but I would not make a habit).
We used the Internet to check transportation and accommodations for Florence and Barcelona, the last stage of our trip before the cruise home. We could go by ferry, a 20-hour trip from Livorno (an hour-and-a-half from Florence), or train (about 24 hours, with a change or two at odd times), or by air (one-and-a-half nonstop via Meridiana).
Luggage is the big issue - we have too much for the allowed air transport, and too much for the train to be convenient. The ferry might be OK, but 20 hours is a long time, and the port is not convenient. We're leaning toward the flight, though we'll have to pay an extra $100 or more in excess baggage charge.
We listened to the live music by a 3-piece band (piano, violin and string bass) in the large sitting room that adjoins the restaurant, enjoying an evening drink and very nice music.
Sat 18 Oct- another work/reading day in Bellagio Hotel Metropole
Sat 18 Oct- it was a cloudy cool day, so we continued working and reading after breakfast and searching the Internet for hotel accommodations and transportation. Stan read 'The Times' (http://timesonline.co.uk) for the market and other news while Kiyomi worked. Stan finished 'Simply Divine', a humorous book with lots of puns and names that were funny when read aloud; and started 'Weep No More, My Lady' by Mary Higgins Clark, which seems full of 'red herrings' and misdirection as to the villain, but is interesting reading, and fast.
After a break for beer and coffee at the Metropole cafe, we continued until dinner. For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine; proscuitto & cantaloupe, salami, cheese and tortilla appetizer; spaghetti with vodka sauce with cheese & ham and panzerotta of the lake (mushroom, ham and fish wrapped in a thin pasta shell) for first plate; Milanese veal chop (breaded and fried) and steak, with beans and potato with rosemary for second plate; and a surprise grande finale dessert plate of chocolate cake, chocolate muffin, apple tart, vanilla pudding and whip cream, served with a glass of sweet wine like Muscato. What a pleasant surprise! The waiters and maitre d' came over, shook our hands, kissed Kiyomi, and bade us farewell.
After a break for beer and coffee at the Metropole cafe, we continued until dinner. For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine; proscuitto & cantaloupe, salami, cheese and tortilla appetizer; spaghetti with vodka sauce with cheese & ham and panzerotta of the lake (mushroom, ham and fish wrapped in a thin pasta shell) for first plate; Milanese veal chop (breaded and fried) and steak, with beans and potato with rosemary for second plate; and a surprise grande finale dessert plate of chocolate cake, chocolate muffin, apple tart, vanilla pudding and whip cream, served with a glass of sweet wine like Muscato. What a pleasant surprise! The waiters and maitre d' came over, shook our hands, kissed Kiyomi, and bade us farewell.
Fri 17 Oct- a working and reading day at Lake Como
Fri 17 Oct- after breakfast, Kiyomi continued work on her article while Stan read the newspaper and continued to read 'Simply Divine' by Wendy Holden. It was a nice sunny day, so we decided to try to visit the garden at Villa Serbelloni in case it were cloudy or rainy when we check in Sunday, where we had coffee and beer (for an astronomical E15 ($22) (although it did include a dish of potato chips); but they would not allow us to see the garden, as we were not yet officially guests. After a short walk, back at the Metropole, we continued working and reading until dinner.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house red wine; three kinds of smoked fish appetizer with toast; bucatini pasta Amatriciana (tomato and ham sauce) and risotto Milanese style (mixed with white cheese) for first plate; grilled veal escalope and escalope Aosta Valley style (cheese and proscuitto layers on the veal) for the second plate with cauliflower au gratin and potatoes as second plate; chocolate cake and lemon sorbet for dessert.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house red wine; three kinds of smoked fish appetizer with toast; bucatini pasta Amatriciana (tomato and ham sauce) and risotto Milanese style (mixed with white cheese) for first plate; grilled veal escalope and escalope Aosta Valley style (cheese and proscuitto layers on the veal) for the second plate with cauliflower au gratin and potatoes as second plate; chocolate cake and lemon sorbet for dessert.
Thu 16 Oct- a working & reading day
Thu 16 Oct- the sky was grey and threatening rain, so after breakfast we checked with reception about the tour of Villa Mylius Vigoni. She found the tour was cancelled due to insufficient number and weather concerns. Stan read the newspaper, relieved to see the market and financial meltdown is at least temporarily controlled while Kiyomi looked for a place to stay in Florence. Back in the room, Stan prepared the photos for upload, updated the blog and continued reading while Kiyomi continued work on her article.
After a coffee break at the Metropole's cafe, we continued inside, since it was still cool, windy and threatening rain. Stan finished 'London Bridges' and started (for lack of anything else) 'Simply Divine' by Wendy Holden.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine; beef cured and cut like proscuitto & white cheese appetizer; dumplings Roman style (with cheese) and pasta Woodman's style (in a white sauce with peas and mushrooms) as first plate; sirloin steak Mirabeau (with anchovy topping) and fish with almond sauce, served with rustic potatoes & pan-fried peppers, onions and potatoes as second plate; vanilla ice cream and tiramisu for dessert.
After a coffee break at the Metropole's cafe, we continued inside, since it was still cool, windy and threatening rain. Stan finished 'London Bridges' and started (for lack of anything else) 'Simply Divine' by Wendy Holden.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine; beef cured and cut like proscuitto & white cheese appetizer; dumplings Roman style (with cheese) and pasta Woodman's style (in a white sauce with peas and mushrooms) as first plate; sirloin steak Mirabeau (with anchovy topping) and fish with almond sauce, served with rustic potatoes & pan-fried peppers, onions and potatoes as second plate; vanilla ice cream and tiramisu for dessert.
Wed 15 Oct- another walk to San Giovanni through Villa Melzi
Wed 15 Oct- after breakfast, Stan read the paper while Kiyomi worked on her article. After it warmed up to 18-19 C, we took a walk down Lungo Lario Manzoni, which had a flea market going on. We walked around looking at all the things on sale, many good bargains if only we had room for them. Then we continued to Lungo Lario Marconi, the lakefront promenade, then through the Giardini di Villa Melzi (http://www.giardinidivillamelzi.it) again, through Loppia, past Villa Gerli to Guggiate and San Giovanni, where we sat on the bench for a while, watched fish, birds, boats and ferries, then walked back, stopping by the highly recommended 'Alle Darsene di Loppia' (http://www.alledarsenediloppia.com) just outside the south entrance of Villa Melzi for a beer and excellent cappuccino. We walked back through the Villa Melzi on a different path, enjoying the lovely warm day, views of the lake and beautiful garden scenery. Although it is mid-October, there are still many flowers blooming, especially gin-mokusei. The Japanese maple around the pond give wonderful colors as the sun shines on or through the leaves, and the reflections in the pond are beautiful.
Back at the Metropole, Stan finished 'A Season in Hell' by Jack Higgins and started on 'London Bridges' by Richard Patterson (his tenth Alex Cross adventure) while Kiyomi worked on the article.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine; proscuitto & cantaloupe appetizer (almost a meal in itself); tagliatelle with gorgonzola cheese and farfalle (bow-tie) pasta with sweet pepper sauce for first plate; Hungarian goulash and perch filet with butter & sage served with baked new potatoes and courgettes (zucchini) Peasant style for second plate; lemon sorbet and cream pudding for dessert.
Back at the Metropole, Stan finished 'A Season in Hell' by Jack Higgins and started on 'London Bridges' by Richard Patterson (his tenth Alex Cross adventure) while Kiyomi worked on the article.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine; proscuitto & cantaloupe appetizer (almost a meal in itself); tagliatelle with gorgonzola cheese and farfalle (bow-tie) pasta with sweet pepper sauce for first plate; Hungarian goulash and perch filet with butter & sage served with baked new potatoes and courgettes (zucchini) Peasant style for second plate; lemon sorbet and cream pudding for dessert.
Tue 14 Oct- another PT/INR test adventure
Tue 14 Oct- left for an 8 am appointment for the PT/INR test before breakfast, walked to the clinic as the sun was coming up in about 20 minutes, where the doctor met us and filled out the forms for the blood draw and test in about 2 minutes. Then we waited inside about 5 minutes until the nurse took passport and copied the information to the medical form; waited about another 5 minutes to be called, blood drawn and ciao. In and out in less than 20 minutes. Walked back to the hotel in time for breakfast. The results of the test were faxed to the hotel about 1 pm, and faxed by the hotel to Kaiser soon thereafter. I had the evaluation back from Kaiser before we went to dinner.
After breakfast we read and worked a while until it warmed up to about 18-19 C. We had planned to visit the Villa Mylius Vigoni in Menaggio, but found out (fortunately before we left the hotel) that the villa is only open on Thursdays for tours. So instead we walked over to Pescallo for the exercise up and down there, then up and down back again, ready for a beer/cappuccino break.
Kiyomi took Stan shopping and we ended up with three shirts and a pair of stretch jeans. They offered free alterations to shirt sleeve length and jeans. The shirts are high quality material, and with the minor alterations, nicely sized and fitted for Stan.
We read and worked before dinner, then checked email and Internet for places to stay in Florence.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house red wine; a huge amount of shrimp cocktail with mayonnaise sauce as appetizer; pipette pasta greengrocer style (mixed cooked vegetables) and trenette pasta with basil pesto sauce for first plate; escalope cordon bleu and pork cutlet with rosemary, sandy potatoes & fennel root for second plate; lemon sorbet and profiteroles for dessert.
After breakfast we read and worked a while until it warmed up to about 18-19 C. We had planned to visit the Villa Mylius Vigoni in Menaggio, but found out (fortunately before we left the hotel) that the villa is only open on Thursdays for tours. So instead we walked over to Pescallo for the exercise up and down there, then up and down back again, ready for a beer/cappuccino break.
Kiyomi took Stan shopping and we ended up with three shirts and a pair of stretch jeans. They offered free alterations to shirt sleeve length and jeans. The shirts are high quality material, and with the minor alterations, nicely sized and fitted for Stan.
We read and worked before dinner, then checked email and Internet for places to stay in Florence.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house red wine; a huge amount of shrimp cocktail with mayonnaise sauce as appetizer; pipette pasta greengrocer style (mixed cooked vegetables) and trenette pasta with basil pesto sauce for first plate; escalope cordon bleu and pork cutlet with rosemary, sandy potatoes & fennel root for second plate; lemon sorbet and profiteroles for dessert.
Mon 13 Oct- PT/INR location, Hotel Belvedere, prescription refill at the pharmacy
Mon 13 Oct- PT/INR location, Hotel Belvedere, prescription refill at the pharmacy
Mon 13 Oct- after breakfast, Kiyomi continued working on her report while Stan finished 'Drop Shot', an enjoyable and funny detective story, and started 'A Season in Hell', a book by Jack Higgins. We were waiting for the sky to clear and for it to warm up before our walk.
Stan checked with the hotel receptionist about when and where he could get his upcoming PT/INR test done. She found out it could be done at the hospital in Menaggio, or at a once-a-week clinic in Bellagio, a 25-minute walk or 5 minute taxi ride. Stan decided to have it done tomorrow, close by in Bellagio, even though it's earlier than necessary, because now the boats to Menaggio are infrequent. We asked the GPS, and it told us 15 minutes walking would get us there, so we tried it; actual time was 25 minutes, but we took several round-about walkways.
On the way back, we stopped by the 3-star Hotel Belvedere for a beer and cappuccino (at E10/US$15, expensive, but we were there for the excellent view of Mt. Grigna, the other alps, and Lago di Lecco, so considered we were buying a nice view also; the cafe across the street was 1/4 the price, but no view). Their dining room also has the great view. It wouldn't be a bad place to stay, though it's a bit far from Bellagio center and the boats/ferries/shops/restaurants.
We continued our walk back through the fishing village Pescallo, and up, up, up the path and then down, down the path to Bellagio. We walked up and down in Bellagio for a while, Stan got a new backpack to replace his camera bag that has fallen apart, then back to the Metropole.
Kiyomi's prescription of 25 mg hydrochlothiazide tablets was getting low, so we decided to try the pharmacy. Sure enough, they looked at the prescription on the label, and immediately fixed us up with a refill, 20 tablets for E1.25 (that's less than US$2).
Kiyomi continued shopping, finding a very good shop named 'GLAMOUR' at Salita Serbelloni 18, with a knowledgeable proprietress while Stan returned to the hotel to blog and read.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine; proscuitto with artichoke & garlic toast with tomato & basil spread appetizer; conchiglie pasta with mixed cheeses and tagliatelle pasta with meat sauce for the first plate; lake trout with aromatic herbs and roast beef with peas & ham & potato Lyonnaise (in cream sauce with onions) as second plate; Sacher tort and lemon sorbet for dessert.
Mon 13 Oct- after breakfast, Kiyomi continued working on her report while Stan finished 'Drop Shot', an enjoyable and funny detective story, and started 'A Season in Hell', a book by Jack Higgins. We were waiting for the sky to clear and for it to warm up before our walk.
Stan checked with the hotel receptionist about when and where he could get his upcoming PT/INR test done. She found out it could be done at the hospital in Menaggio, or at a once-a-week clinic in Bellagio, a 25-minute walk or 5 minute taxi ride. Stan decided to have it done tomorrow, close by in Bellagio, even though it's earlier than necessary, because now the boats to Menaggio are infrequent. We asked the GPS, and it told us 15 minutes walking would get us there, so we tried it; actual time was 25 minutes, but we took several round-about walkways.
On the way back, we stopped by the 3-star Hotel Belvedere for a beer and cappuccino (at E10/US$15, expensive, but we were there for the excellent view of Mt. Grigna, the other alps, and Lago di Lecco, so considered we were buying a nice view also; the cafe across the street was 1/4 the price, but no view). Their dining room also has the great view. It wouldn't be a bad place to stay, though it's a bit far from Bellagio center and the boats/ferries/shops/restaurants.
We continued our walk back through the fishing village Pescallo, and up, up, up the path and then down, down the path to Bellagio. We walked up and down in Bellagio for a while, Stan got a new backpack to replace his camera bag that has fallen apart, then back to the Metropole.
Kiyomi's prescription of 25 mg hydrochlothiazide tablets was getting low, so we decided to try the pharmacy. Sure enough, they looked at the prescription on the label, and immediately fixed us up with a refill, 20 tablets for E1.25 (that's less than US$2).
Kiyomi continued shopping, finding a very good shop named 'GLAMOUR' at Salita Serbelloni 18, with a knowledgeable proprietress while Stan returned to the hotel to blog and read.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine; proscuitto with artichoke & garlic toast with tomato & basil spread appetizer; conchiglie pasta with mixed cheeses and tagliatelle pasta with meat sauce for the first plate; lake trout with aromatic herbs and roast beef with peas & ham & potato Lyonnaise (in cream sauce with onions) as second plate; Sacher tort and lemon sorbet for dessert.
Sun 12 Oct- walking and relaxing around Bellagio
http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Sun 12 Oct- after breakfast we worked and read until it warmed up to 19-20 C around noon. Then we walked over to the northern point of Bellagio where the two arms of the lake meet. We watched the fish and enjoyed the sun. Then we walked back through Bellagio, up and down streets (actually pedestrian stairways lined with shops of all kind) we hadn't been on before. We continued along the lakeside promenade Lungo Lario Europa, lined with raised flower beds on one side and the lake on the other. We watched the antics of the ducks and other birds, were amazed by all the fish we saw, and enjoyed the warm 22-23 C sunny day. Then we walked back to the Metropole.
After a beer/cappuccino break, Stan read the paper (the London Times is the only one in English) and worked on the blog while Kiyomi went shopping. We miss CNN and CNBC, which are not available at the Metropole; only the Eurosport channel and France24 (http://www.france24.com/en/)are in English. It was surprising and interesting to hear a French TV station broadcasting in English, with a very French and European perspective on the news.
For dinner we had: tomato and mozzarella cheese with lettuce and basil appetizer, 1/2 liter house white wine; spaghetti with shrimp & courgettes (zucchini chunks) and ravioli stuffed with green pesto (broccoli) under a cheese sauce served with rocket (arugula) & stuffed tomato for first plate; braised pork shank and fried fish for second plate; chocolate muffin and tiramisu for dessert.
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Sun 12 Oct- after breakfast we worked and read until it warmed up to 19-20 C around noon. Then we walked over to the northern point of Bellagio where the two arms of the lake meet. We watched the fish and enjoyed the sun. Then we walked back through Bellagio, up and down streets (actually pedestrian stairways lined with shops of all kind) we hadn't been on before. We continued along the lakeside promenade Lungo Lario Europa, lined with raised flower beds on one side and the lake on the other. We watched the antics of the ducks and other birds, were amazed by all the fish we saw, and enjoyed the warm 22-23 C sunny day. Then we walked back to the Metropole.
After a beer/cappuccino break, Stan read the paper (the London Times is the only one in English) and worked on the blog while Kiyomi went shopping. We miss CNN and CNBC, which are not available at the Metropole; only the Eurosport channel and France24 (http://www.france24.com/en/)are in English. It was surprising and interesting to hear a French TV station broadcasting in English, with a very French and European perspective on the news.
For dinner we had: tomato and mozzarella cheese with lettuce and basil appetizer, 1/2 liter house white wine; spaghetti with shrimp & courgettes (zucchini chunks) and ravioli stuffed with green pesto (broccoli) under a cheese sauce served with rocket (arugula) & stuffed tomato for first plate; braised pork shank and fried fish for second plate; chocolate muffin and tiramisu for dessert.
Sat 11 Oct- a walk to Suira, Taronico, Casate and Regatola and back
Sat 11 Oct- after breakfast, and a wait until it warmed up, we took a walk first to Suira via a pedestrian path we noticed yesterday, then on to Casate, Taronico, and then to San Marino, where we had a delicious Paulaner draft beer and capuccino while enjoying the beautiful view at the appropriately named Bellavista Ristorante on this sunny and warm 21-22 C day. We continued on to Regatola and back to Bellagio through Aureggio. They are all cute little towns with narrow twisting streets that are often cobblestone and narrow. We could frequently catch the fragrance of gin-mokusei as we walked the paths.
Back in the Metropole we read or worked. Stan finished reading Phillip Margolin's 'The Associate' and started Harlan Coben's 'Drop Shot'
For dinner we had 1/2 liter house white wine; smoked salmon with toast appetizer; tagliatelle with aromatic herbs and cannelloni with spinach & ricotta as first course; escalope Gypsy style (stewed sliced carrots, ham & peppers) and grilled sirloin steak, with French fries and stuffed tomato as second plate; wild berries cake and apple tart for dessert.
Back in the Metropole we read or worked. Stan finished reading Phillip Margolin's 'The Associate' and started Harlan Coben's 'Drop Shot'
For dinner we had 1/2 liter house white wine; smoked salmon with toast appetizer; tagliatelle with aromatic herbs and cannelloni with spinach & ricotta as first course; escalope Gypsy style (stewed sliced carrots, ham & peppers) and grilled sirloin steak, with French fries and stuffed tomato as second plate; wild berries cake and apple tart for dessert.
Fri 10 Oct- a walk to Mulini del Perlo
Fri 10 Oct- after breakfast we looked at the map of the area, read the walking excursions, and decided on an ambitious walk to Mulini del Perlo for a view of all three arms of Lake Como. We walked again by way of back roads that were winding, cobblestone, and too narrow, or steep with steps, for a car. The walks were generally fenced on each side with 7-8 foot tall stone walls, so we could only see the tops of the shrubs and trees in the yards; but we could frequently catch the fragrance of gin-mokusei. We walked through the town Aureggio, wondering who lived here and what did they do for a living. As we climbed the hill toward Mulini del Perlo, we could look back and see the yards that had been hidden from view as we walked by them, and the villas on the hill across the valley between us.
We reached Mulini del Perlo, at an altitude of 320 meters (about 1000 feet), and when we looked out from a viewpoint we could indeed see the three arms of Lake Como. It was a beautiful view, sunny and a warm 21-22 C. We walked down Via al Perlo toward San Giovanni, enjoying the pastoral landscape. We wondered if any cars could negotiate the stony steep winding trail.
Back in Bellagio, after a beer/coffee break, we worked or read for a while sitting in the afternoon sun on our balcony. It was relaxing to look over the lake, enjoying the boats coming and going, and the antics of the swans and ducks.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house red wine; melon and proscuitto appetizer; dumplings Florentine style (green color, made with broccoli) and maccheroncini pasta with aubergines (eggplant) for the first plate; breaded & fried plaice and beefsteak Pizzaiola style for the second plate; lemon cake and chocolate muffin (warm and YUM!) for dessert.
We reached Mulini del Perlo, at an altitude of 320 meters (about 1000 feet), and when we looked out from a viewpoint we could indeed see the three arms of Lake Como. It was a beautiful view, sunny and a warm 21-22 C. We walked down Via al Perlo toward San Giovanni, enjoying the pastoral landscape. We wondered if any cars could negotiate the stony steep winding trail.
Back in Bellagio, after a beer/coffee break, we worked or read for a while sitting in the afternoon sun on our balcony. It was relaxing to look over the lake, enjoying the boats coming and going, and the antics of the swans and ducks.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house red wine; melon and proscuitto appetizer; dumplings Florentine style (green color, made with broccoli) and maccheroncini pasta with aubergines (eggplant) for the first plate; breaded & fried plaice and beefsteak Pizzaiola style for the second plate; lemon cake and chocolate muffin (warm and YUM!) for dessert.
Thu 9 Oct- a walk to San Giovanni
Thu 9 Oct- it's a sunny cool 15-16 C breezy day, and we took a long walk again to enjoy the picturesque surroundings of Bellagio and the views of the lake. During our walk it warmed to 18-19 C and became quite pleasant. We went to the nearby San Giovanni town by way of back roads that were winding, cobblestone, and almost too narrow for a car. In San Giovanni we sat by the lake for a while, enjoying the peace and quiet, and warm sun. Then we walked back to the hotel for a beer and coffee.
Stan finished reading Tess Gerritsen 'The Mephisto Club' [http://www.tessgerritsen.com] while Kiyomi worked on her report.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine, a selection of three kinds of smoked fish (tuna, salmon and cod), very thinly sliced as appetizer; crepes chef style (cheese and butter) and Trenette pasta with tuna & olives as first plate; roast chicken and escalope Lombardy style as second plate; vanilla pudding and tiramisu for dessert.
Stan finished reading Tess Gerritsen 'The Mephisto Club' [http://www.tessgerritsen.com] while Kiyomi worked on her report.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine, a selection of three kinds of smoked fish (tuna, salmon and cod), very thinly sliced as appetizer; crepes chef style (cheese and butter) and Trenette pasta with tuna & olives as first plate; roast chicken and escalope Lombardy style as second plate; vanilla pudding and tiramisu for dessert.
Wed 8 Oct- a walk to Pescallo on the Lago de Lecco side, back over to Loppia
Wed 8 Oct- a rainy morning as we had breakfast, looking out and seeing the mist and rain dramatically obscure the mountains and the far side of the lake. It was pretty, as long as we could stay inside. Later we worked the Internet and read the paper. Things look pretty grim for the financial markets, banks and stock markets. We hope the world's leaders can get their acts together and do what they are elected and paid to do.
With the sky clearing and the temperature rising to 18-19 C, we decided to take a walk. We found an interesting cobblestone walk from Bellagio up over the hill and down to the fishing village Pescallo, which is on the Lago de Lecco side of Bellagio. There were many picturesque villas, hotels and homes, lots of flowers, shrubs (including blooming fragrant osmanthus), ivy enclosing houses in various shades of red and orange. It was a beautiful walk, and the cool temperature was stimulating. Then we walked back to the Lago di Como side to Loppia, the southern end of Villa Melzi, and then back north to Bellagio.
We had an afternoon break at our Hotel Metropole, on the outside terrace right on the lake, watching people throw bread to the swans and ducks, and seeing the ferries and boats come and go. After a rest, we took clothes to the laundry, and picked up hearing aid batteries (Duracell 13, 1.4 V zinc air) at the local pharmacy. I'd heard hearing aid batteries were hard to find in Europe; but perhaps Americans don't think to ask at a pharmacy.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house red wine, proscuitto appetizer; penne pasta with hot tomato sauce and risotto with mushrooms as first plate; escalope in Marsala wine sauce and grilled sole as second plate; granny's cake (a nice lemon flavored light cake) and vanilla cream pudding for dessert.
With the sky clearing and the temperature rising to 18-19 C, we decided to take a walk. We found an interesting cobblestone walk from Bellagio up over the hill and down to the fishing village Pescallo, which is on the Lago de Lecco side of Bellagio. There were many picturesque villas, hotels and homes, lots of flowers, shrubs (including blooming fragrant osmanthus), ivy enclosing houses in various shades of red and orange. It was a beautiful walk, and the cool temperature was stimulating. Then we walked back to the Lago di Como side to Loppia, the southern end of Villa Melzi, and then back north to Bellagio.
We had an afternoon break at our Hotel Metropole, on the outside terrace right on the lake, watching people throw bread to the swans and ducks, and seeing the ferries and boats come and go. After a rest, we took clothes to the laundry, and picked up hearing aid batteries (Duracell 13, 1.4 V zinc air) at the local pharmacy. I'd heard hearing aid batteries were hard to find in Europe; but perhaps Americans don't think to ask at a pharmacy.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house red wine, proscuitto appetizer; penne pasta with hot tomato sauce and risotto with mushrooms as first plate; escalope in Marsala wine sauce and grilled sole as second plate; granny's cake (a nice lemon flavored light cake) and vanilla cream pudding for dessert.
Tue 7 Oct- by boat to Como, Villa Olmo, back to Bellagio by bus
Tue 7 Oct- after breakfast, we took a boat to Como for E8 ($12) each. It took about 2 hours, sailing along the side of the lake past picturesque villages at the foot of the mountains. The weather was cool 15-16 C, partly cloudy and windy, too chilly to be on the deck, but the view from the enclosed compartment was just as good. We got a few photos of Villa del Balbianello as we passed, but generally just enjoyed the scenery as it unfolded.
In Como, after we had caffe lattes at hotel Barchetta Excelsior on Piazza Cavour (E8 for two - at $12 that's really expensive), we visited the only "garden" around Como, at the Villa Olmo. The villa is situated right on the lake, with its own little beach and dock for boats. It is more of a park, but admission was free and the view of the lake, the mountains, and Como city was beautiful. We took a few photos, then went back to the old town to look around. There were, as usual, lots of upscale shops selling the usual upscale shoes, clothes and other goods, cafes, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops. We stopped by for espresso at Cioccolandia on Via Rusconi, and paid only E2.60 for both (moral: don't go to the big hotels for coffee or snacks, instead stop by the little cute bar/cafes). I was tempted to buy several of the chocolate bars they sell, but Kiyomi says we have more than enough chocolate.
We decided to return by bus so we could see the lake from a different perspective, not realizing the bus would be packed, with standing room only. Apparently lots of high school kids were going home to villages along the lake, and there was a big group with lots of luggage heading for a hotel along the road. So we hung from the rack for a half-hour until some seats were vacated. The road goes pretty high up over the lake, and the views down into the towns and gardens was very pretty (once we got the window seats). All in all, we decided the time and expense to visit Como was a bad investment; we could have gone back to one of the really pretty gardens, or Villa Cipressi for a leisurely coffee and snack after it warmed to 20-21 C, the wind died down and the sky cleared up.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine, shrimp cocktail over lettuce appetizer; lasagna and spaghetti with tomato sauce as first plate; escalope with mushrooms and grilled trout fillet as second plate; cheese cake and chocolate pudding for dessert. Again everything was delicious, and we went away full and content.
In Como, after we had caffe lattes at hotel Barchetta Excelsior on Piazza Cavour (E8 for two - at $12 that's really expensive), we visited the only "garden" around Como, at the Villa Olmo. The villa is situated right on the lake, with its own little beach and dock for boats. It is more of a park, but admission was free and the view of the lake, the mountains, and Como city was beautiful. We took a few photos, then went back to the old town to look around. There were, as usual, lots of upscale shops selling the usual upscale shoes, clothes and other goods, cafes, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops. We stopped by for espresso at Cioccolandia on Via Rusconi, and paid only E2.60 for both (moral: don't go to the big hotels for coffee or snacks, instead stop by the little cute bar/cafes). I was tempted to buy several of the chocolate bars they sell, but Kiyomi says we have more than enough chocolate.
We decided to return by bus so we could see the lake from a different perspective, not realizing the bus would be packed, with standing room only. Apparently lots of high school kids were going home to villages along the lake, and there was a big group with lots of luggage heading for a hotel along the road. So we hung from the rack for a half-hour until some seats were vacated. The road goes pretty high up over the lake, and the views down into the towns and gardens was very pretty (once we got the window seats). All in all, we decided the time and expense to visit Como was a bad investment; we could have gone back to one of the really pretty gardens, or Villa Cipressi for a leisurely coffee and snack after it warmed to 20-21 C, the wind died down and the sky cleared up.
For dinner we had: 1/2 liter house white wine, shrimp cocktail over lettuce appetizer; lasagna and spaghetti with tomato sauce as first plate; escalope with mushrooms and grilled trout fillet as second plate; cheese cake and chocolate pudding for dessert. Again everything was delicious, and we went away full and content.
Mon 6 Oct- Villa Cipressi and Villa Monastero
Mon 6 Oct- today after breakfast we took advantage of the beautiful weather, sunny and clear, 13-14 C in the morning warming to 19-20 C in the afternoon. We went by boat to nearby Varenna to visit the Hotel and Garden Villa Cipressi. There is a very pleasant promenade along the lake that we used to get from the dock to the hotel, rather than using the street. The water is quite clear; we can see many fish, and ducks and swans enjoying the lake. We enjoyed the small but beautiful garden that is part of the hotel property. There are many lovely vistas of the lake, neighboring villas, and mountains in the distance. Also of course, the beautifully laid out gardens on several levels of terraces, with again kin-mokusei and gin-mokusei trees scenting the air. The garden seems surrounded by wisteria; it will be lovely in spring when it blooms and fills the air with its fragrance. Kiyomi will recommend to her friends that they stay a few days here, in this boutique hotel. If it were not so far from the pier, we would cancel our reservations at the Villa Serbelloni and stay here - the price is much less, and the ambience is much more. This was well worth the small admission charge.
We then moved on to the Villa Monastero, just a few meters farther along the lakeside. It dates from the 13th Century, when it was a Cistercian monastery; but it was upgraded to a villa in the 17th Century, so the plants have had several hundred years to grow and flourish. The garden extends a long way along the lakeside, but isn't very wide. Almost every place along the path has a view of the lake, nearby towns, and towns across the lake along the base of the mountains. There are all kinds of plants to enhance the view; the kin-mokusei and gin-mokusei trees scenting the air, along with citrus trees of all kinds. This was well worth the small admission charge.
We enjoyed a beer and coffee on the patio of the Metropole back in Bellagio, enjoying the warm sun in the cool fresh air right on the lake. We were shocked to turn on TV and hear about the market crash. We wonder if the credit crunch will affect our credit card use, and whether our retirement funds will evaporate.
For dinner we continued our strategy of trying as many different selections as possible: 1/2 liter house red wine; cantaloupe with proscuitto, cheese, lettuce, arugula, and tortilla appetizer; fusilli pasta with tomato and meat sauce and cream of asparagus soup as first plate; stewed sausage with beans and grilled Lavaret (lake fish) as second plate; creme caramel and Sacher torte for dessert. Yum!
We then moved on to the Villa Monastero, just a few meters farther along the lakeside. It dates from the 13th Century, when it was a Cistercian monastery; but it was upgraded to a villa in the 17th Century, so the plants have had several hundred years to grow and flourish. The garden extends a long way along the lakeside, but isn't very wide. Almost every place along the path has a view of the lake, nearby towns, and towns across the lake along the base of the mountains. There are all kinds of plants to enhance the view; the kin-mokusei and gin-mokusei trees scenting the air, along with citrus trees of all kinds. This was well worth the small admission charge.
We enjoyed a beer and coffee on the patio of the Metropole back in Bellagio, enjoying the warm sun in the cool fresh air right on the lake. We were shocked to turn on TV and hear about the market crash. We wonder if the credit crunch will affect our credit card use, and whether our retirement funds will evaporate.
For dinner we continued our strategy of trying as many different selections as possible: 1/2 liter house red wine; cantaloupe with proscuitto, cheese, lettuce, arugula, and tortilla appetizer; fusilli pasta with tomato and meat sauce and cream of asparagus soup as first plate; stewed sausage with beans and grilled Lavaret (lake fish) as second plate; creme caramel and Sacher torte for dessert. Yum!
Sun 5 Oct- Villa del Balbianello and Villa Carlotta
Sun 5 Oct- We are enjoying visiting gardens in towns around Lake Como. Today we visited Villa del Balbianello, near the town Lenno, built in the late 1700s on a promontory previously occupied by Capuchin monks. It's more famous as a museum, but the grounds are lovely, with many vistas overlooking the lake. It is maintained by FAI (http://www.fondoambiente.it).
After a short ferry ride to Tremezzo and a coffee break at Cafe Helvetia (E16 for a beer, a coffee and a salad- $25!), we visited Villa Carlotta (http://www.villacarlotta.it), which was built in the 17th Century. The garden is huge, and is also a botanical garden, with plants identified by plaques and on the map of the garden. There are plants from all over the world, laid out in a very enjoyable way that makes it a real pleasure to wander the paths with their frequent vistas of Lake Como. We could smell, and then see when we stopped and looked around, many gin-mokusei (osmanthus fragrans) and kin-mokusei (osmanthus auris) as we walked in the gardens. It reminded us of our garden. The kin-mokusei and gin-mokusei trees here are huge, much larger than ours; we can't believe how well they are doing here. The fragrance is heavenly.
From our hotel balcony, we can see beautiful sunsets before we go to dinner, as the sun sinks behind the mountains across the lake. We are eating at our hotel every morning and night because we arranged half-board. They are serving us four courses every night, but hopefully, visiting gardens will give us enough exercise to burn off the excess. Tonight we had 1/2 liter of the house white wine, salmon and cream cheese appetizer; tortellino with cream and ham and rigatoni pasta Portofino style (tomato and basil sauce) as first plate; grilled veal escalope and swordfish Amalfi style as second plate; then profiteroles and ice cream sundae for dessert.
After a short ferry ride to Tremezzo and a coffee break at Cafe Helvetia (E16 for a beer, a coffee and a salad- $25!), we visited Villa Carlotta (http://www.villacarlotta.it), which was built in the 17th Century. The garden is huge, and is also a botanical garden, with plants identified by plaques and on the map of the garden. There are plants from all over the world, laid out in a very enjoyable way that makes it a real pleasure to wander the paths with their frequent vistas of Lake Como. We could smell, and then see when we stopped and looked around, many gin-mokusei (osmanthus fragrans) and kin-mokusei (osmanthus auris) as we walked in the gardens. It reminded us of our garden. The kin-mokusei and gin-mokusei trees here are huge, much larger than ours; we can't believe how well they are doing here. The fragrance is heavenly.
From our hotel balcony, we can see beautiful sunsets before we go to dinner, as the sun sinks behind the mountains across the lake. We are eating at our hotel every morning and night because we arranged half-board. They are serving us four courses every night, but hopefully, visiting gardens will give us enough exercise to burn off the excess. Tonight we had 1/2 liter of the house white wine, salmon and cream cheese appetizer; tortellino with cream and ham and rigatoni pasta Portofino style (tomato and basil sauce) as first plate; grilled veal escalope and swordfish Amalfi style as second plate; then profiteroles and ice cream sundae for dessert.
Sat 4 Oct- I giardini di Villa Melzi and Villa Serbelloni Park
Sat 4 Oct- it's a clear but windy and cool (13-14 C) day, and the view from our room is great. We can see snow-covered peaks in the north across the lake (Switzerland), and a very clear view of the opposite side.
After a nice included breakfast buffet, we decided to walk around town and view the gardens, since the weather is so nice. We went first to 'I giardini di Villa Melzi' designed by Giocondo Albertolli and built 1808-1810. It is a beautiful garden park, with a large number of different kinds of shrubs and trees, including four huge 'gin-mokusei' (osmanthus fragrans) and many other Japanese and Chinese plants. The pond had very clear reflections of the surrounding plants, almost like a mirror. Kiyomi was reminded of Japanese gardens as we wandered the many paths leading from one beautiful view to the next. We took many photos and video to remind us of this beautiful place; it was well worth the price of admission.
We spent the early afternoon in our room, which gets the sun this time of day; between frequent looking out the windows, we spent the time Kiyomi writing postcards and Stan reading the newspaper and writing the blog.
At 3:15 pm we left for a guided tour of the Villa Serbelloni Park. It is really a park, not a garden; we didn't see any real garden areas. Apparently the park has been run since 1959 by the Rockefeller Foundation as a place where scholars and scientists come to study and write. The site is known to have been occupied since Roman times (by Pliny the Younger), and since then subsequent conquerors and occupiers have built and rebuilt castles and watchtowers to control Lake Como; or perhaps just for the magnificent views of the three arms of the lake and surrounding mountains: the Goths in 475, the Longobard in the 8th Century, rebuilt in the Middle Ages, demolished in 1375, rebuilt 1489-1500, and so on until 1788 when the Serbelloni family got it, but it still changed hands several more times.
At the park's highest point of 325 meters, it has a commanding view of the three arms of the lake, and Switzerland is visible in the distance. It was a nice walk. We really enjoyed the fragrance of the many gin-mokusei along the path and the spectacular views, especially from the higher viewpoints; but Kiyomi was disappointed it was not more of a garden, and we felt it's not worth the E8/person ($12) price of admission.
Dinner was again above expectations: we each had a draft beer, and tonight was a proscuitto, lettuce and artichoke salad. Following our strategy, we split the pennette pasta (like macaroni & cheese, but a creamy delicious sauce with ham or bacon for flavor) and Panzerotto of the Lake (a ham, cheese and fish concoction that was delicious); then split the Milanese veal chop (breaded and fried veal) and Hake Livornese style (in a sauce of tomato and olives); then wild berry cake and apple tart for dessert.
After a nice included breakfast buffet, we decided to walk around town and view the gardens, since the weather is so nice. We went first to 'I giardini di Villa Melzi' designed by Giocondo Albertolli and built 1808-1810. It is a beautiful garden park, with a large number of different kinds of shrubs and trees, including four huge 'gin-mokusei' (osmanthus fragrans) and many other Japanese and Chinese plants. The pond had very clear reflections of the surrounding plants, almost like a mirror. Kiyomi was reminded of Japanese gardens as we wandered the many paths leading from one beautiful view to the next. We took many photos and video to remind us of this beautiful place; it was well worth the price of admission.
We spent the early afternoon in our room, which gets the sun this time of day; between frequent looking out the windows, we spent the time Kiyomi writing postcards and Stan reading the newspaper and writing the blog.
At 3:15 pm we left for a guided tour of the Villa Serbelloni Park. It is really a park, not a garden; we didn't see any real garden areas. Apparently the park has been run since 1959 by the Rockefeller Foundation as a place where scholars and scientists come to study and write. The site is known to have been occupied since Roman times (by Pliny the Younger), and since then subsequent conquerors and occupiers have built and rebuilt castles and watchtowers to control Lake Como; or perhaps just for the magnificent views of the three arms of the lake and surrounding mountains: the Goths in 475, the Longobard in the 8th Century, rebuilt in the Middle Ages, demolished in 1375, rebuilt 1489-1500, and so on until 1788 when the Serbelloni family got it, but it still changed hands several more times.
At the park's highest point of 325 meters, it has a commanding view of the three arms of the lake, and Switzerland is visible in the distance. It was a nice walk. We really enjoyed the fragrance of the many gin-mokusei along the path and the spectacular views, especially from the higher viewpoints; but Kiyomi was disappointed it was not more of a garden, and we felt it's not worth the E8/person ($12) price of admission.
Dinner was again above expectations: we each had a draft beer, and tonight was a proscuitto, lettuce and artichoke salad. Following our strategy, we split the pennette pasta (like macaroni & cheese, but a creamy delicious sauce with ham or bacon for flavor) and Panzerotto of the Lake (a ham, cheese and fish concoction that was delicious); then split the Milanese veal chop (breaded and fried veal) and Hake Livornese style (in a sauce of tomato and olives); then wild berry cake and apple tart for dessert.
Fri 3 Oct- final shopping in Milan, then on to Lake Como and Bellagio 'Hotel Metropole'
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Fri 3 Oct- final shopping in Milan, then on to Lake Como and Bellagio 'Hotel Metropole'
Fri 3 Oct- we had a fruit and vegetable breakfast, then Kiyomi headed out for more shopping, trying to decide whether to buy the coat she tried on yesterday. Stan stayed at the hotel room, working on this blog. She decided to buy it, and it is a beautiful reversible very soft leather/suede coat with classic simple style.
For lunch we ate at Caffe Panzera: a draft beer, spaghetti pomodore, pizza al funghi and 2 espresso for E30. It was pretty good, but I would not say $45 worth of good. Milan is expensive! Our half-board at Hotel Metropole will be an extra E30 for both of us, that's breakfast and 4-course dinner.
At 2 pm we departed by taxi for Bellagio. Le Meridien helped Kiyomi arrange a special taxi to take us directly to the hotel so we don't have to worry about our luggage on the train, and then from Como to Bellagio; but it's pretty expensive at E200. When we left Milan it was sunny and warm; along the way the sky got very dark, there was lightening and thunder, and then rain, sleet and snow! It got so bad we and other vehicles parked for a while under overpasses to get out of the storm. Then as we turned down the narrow road to Bellagio and went through a tunnel, it got suddenly brighter, the rain tapered off, and by the time we arrived at our Hotel Metropole (http://www.albergometropole.it), it was getting sunny, though still quite windy-there were actual whitecaps on Lake Como.
We have a nice room, with a newly-renovated bathroom, complete with bidet and tub. It's not large, but is nicely done and easy to use, with a heated towel rack where we can dry our clothes. The view from our room is really fantastic. We overlook the lake with a view from our window up and down the lake, to the Italian Alps on the other side of the lake, and to the Swiss Alps in the distance, all from our balcony. We can watch the ferries and boats come and go to the docks on each side of the hotel. We took a short walk around town, and were surprised at the number and variety of shops. Kiyomi is determined to investigate all of them (while Stan is doing something else).
Dinner was a nice surprise, exceeding our expectation. First, a welcome glass of champagne, then a tomato & mozzarella cheese salad appetizer. We decided to have the house red wine and each order a different dish and share, so we could taste a greater variety. The first course was Bicatini Pasta Ametriciana (spaghetti with tomato sauce and ham) and Risotto Milanese style (a creamy rice dish). The second course was Lavaret filets with aromatic herbs (a fresh-water fish) and Escalope Aosta-Valley style (veal with a cheese topping). Then lemon cake and warm chocolate muffin (YUM!) were served for dessert.
Fri 3 Oct- final shopping in Milan, then on to Lake Como and Bellagio 'Hotel Metropole'
Fri 3 Oct- we had a fruit and vegetable breakfast, then Kiyomi headed out for more shopping, trying to decide whether to buy the coat she tried on yesterday. Stan stayed at the hotel room, working on this blog. She decided to buy it, and it is a beautiful reversible very soft leather/suede coat with classic simple style.
For lunch we ate at Caffe Panzera: a draft beer, spaghetti pomodore, pizza al funghi and 2 espresso for E30. It was pretty good, but I would not say $45 worth of good. Milan is expensive! Our half-board at Hotel Metropole will be an extra E30 for both of us, that's breakfast and 4-course dinner.
At 2 pm we departed by taxi for Bellagio. Le Meridien helped Kiyomi arrange a special taxi to take us directly to the hotel so we don't have to worry about our luggage on the train, and then from Como to Bellagio; but it's pretty expensive at E200. When we left Milan it was sunny and warm; along the way the sky got very dark, there was lightening and thunder, and then rain, sleet and snow! It got so bad we and other vehicles parked for a while under overpasses to get out of the storm. Then as we turned down the narrow road to Bellagio and went through a tunnel, it got suddenly brighter, the rain tapered off, and by the time we arrived at our Hotel Metropole (http://www.albergometropole.it), it was getting sunny, though still quite windy-there were actual whitecaps on Lake Como.
We have a nice room, with a newly-renovated bathroom, complete with bidet and tub. It's not large, but is nicely done and easy to use, with a heated towel rack where we can dry our clothes. The view from our room is really fantastic. We overlook the lake with a view from our window up and down the lake, to the Italian Alps on the other side of the lake, and to the Swiss Alps in the distance, all from our balcony. We can watch the ferries and boats come and go to the docks on each side of the hotel. We took a short walk around town, and were surprised at the number and variety of shops. Kiyomi is determined to investigate all of them (while Stan is doing something else).
Dinner was a nice surprise, exceeding our expectation. First, a welcome glass of champagne, then a tomato & mozzarella cheese salad appetizer. We decided to have the house red wine and each order a different dish and share, so we could taste a greater variety. The first course was Bicatini Pasta Ametriciana (spaghetti with tomato sauce and ham) and Risotto Milanese style (a creamy rice dish). The second course was Lavaret filets with aromatic herbs (a fresh-water fish) and Escalope Aosta-Valley style (veal with a cheese topping). Then lemon cake and warm chocolate muffin (YUM!) were served for dessert.
Sun 12 Oct- walking and relaxing around Bellagio
http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Sun 12 Oct- after breakfast we worked and read until it warmed up to 19-20 C around noon. Then we walked over to the northern point of Bellagio where the two arms of the lake meet. We watched the fish and enjoyed the sun. Then we walked back through Bellagio, up and down streets (actually pedestrian stairways lined with shops of all kind) we hadn't been on before. We continued along the lakeside promenade Lungo Lario Europa, lined with raised flower beds on one side and the lake on the other. We watched the antics of the ducks and other birds, were amazed by all the fish we saw, and enjoyed the warm 22-23 C sunny day. Then we walked back to the Metropole.
After a beer/cappuccino break, Stan read the paper (the London Times is the only one in English) and worked on the blog while Kiyomi went shopping. We miss CNN and CNBC, which are not available at the Metropole; only the Eurosport channel and France24 are in English. It was surprising and interesting to hear a French TV station broadcasting in English, with a very French and European perspective on the news.
For dinner we had: tomato and mozzarella cheese with lettuce and basil appetizer, 1/2 liter house white wine; spaghetti with shrimp & courgettes (zucchini chunks) and ravioli stuffed with green pesto (broccoli) under a cheese sauce served with rocket (arugula) & stuffed tomato for first plate; braised pork shank and fried fish for second plate; chocolate muffin and tiramisu for dessert.
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Sun 12 Oct- after breakfast we worked and read until it warmed up to 19-20 C around noon. Then we walked over to the northern point of Bellagio where the two arms of the lake meet. We watched the fish and enjoyed the sun. Then we walked back through Bellagio, up and down streets (actually pedestrian stairways lined with shops of all kind) we hadn't been on before. We continued along the lakeside promenade Lungo Lario Europa, lined with raised flower beds on one side and the lake on the other. We watched the antics of the ducks and other birds, were amazed by all the fish we saw, and enjoyed the warm 22-23 C sunny day. Then we walked back to the Metropole.
After a beer/cappuccino break, Stan read the paper (the London Times is the only one in English) and worked on the blog while Kiyomi went shopping. We miss CNN and CNBC, which are not available at the Metropole; only the Eurosport channel and France24 are in English. It was surprising and interesting to hear a French TV station broadcasting in English, with a very French and European perspective on the news.
For dinner we had: tomato and mozzarella cheese with lettuce and basil appetizer, 1/2 liter house white wine; spaghetti with shrimp & courgettes (zucchini chunks) and ravioli stuffed with green pesto (broccoli) under a cheese sauce served with rocket (arugula) & stuffed tomato for first plate; braised pork shank and fried fish for second plate; chocolate muffin and tiramisu for dessert.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Thu 2 Oct- more shopping in Milan
Thu 2 Oct- we had a fruit and vegetable breakfast, then headed out for more shopping, today in the upscale Montenapoleone area. All the big brands are there: Armani, Brioni, Chanel, Tiffany, Ferragamo, and a lot of lesser known brands.
We had lunch at a restaurant in the Duomo vicinity, 'San Carlo al Corso': beer (2xE9), penne arrabbbiala (E13), pizza Napoli (E10), caffe (2x3.5); total was E49. Expensive for the quality, the pasta didn't compare with yesterday's and that's really expensive beer and espresso. But it's the really upscale tourist area on 'Vittorio Emanuelle II'. Kiyomi continued shopping. Stan had brought a book, 'My Name is Legion' by Roger Zelazny, which he started reading and finished while waiting for Kiyomi in the various shops. Fortunately all the shops had a chair or stool for weary husbands to rest on while the wives looked and tried on clothes.
After shopping we stopped by 'Manzoni Romantic Cafe' for a drink: a 'G. Menabrea e Figli since 1846' beer (http://www.birramenabrea.com), which was served with a plate of potato chips, a dish of olives, and 4 pieces of pizza bread, similar to yesterday. Apparently beer and snacks is an evening custom. All for E12, so we hardly need dinner.
We took the subway back, E1/person. It was a bit difficult to figure out the procedure, but after watching other people we were successful.
We had lunch at a restaurant in the Duomo vicinity, 'San Carlo al Corso': beer (2xE9), penne arrabbbiala (E13), pizza Napoli (E10), caffe (2x3.5); total was E49. Expensive for the quality, the pasta didn't compare with yesterday's and that's really expensive beer and espresso. But it's the really upscale tourist area on 'Vittorio Emanuelle II'. Kiyomi continued shopping. Stan had brought a book, 'My Name is Legion' by Roger Zelazny, which he started reading and finished while waiting for Kiyomi in the various shops. Fortunately all the shops had a chair or stool for weary husbands to rest on while the wives looked and tried on clothes.
After shopping we stopped by 'Manzoni Romantic Cafe' for a drink: a 'G. Menabrea e Figli since 1846' beer (http://www.birramenabrea.com), which was served with a plate of potato chips, a dish of olives, and 4 pieces of pizza bread, similar to yesterday. Apparently beer and snacks is an evening custom. All for E12, so we hardly need dinner.
We took the subway back, E1/person. It was a bit difficult to figure out the procedure, but after watching other people we were successful.
Wed 1 Oct- shopping in Milan
Wed 1 Oct- we had a nice cappuccinos and sandwich at Caffe Panzera, a local cafe since 1931, then continued shopping in the outlet stores in the vicinity. There were many discount shops, lots of sales. Kiyomi found a pair of good comfortable walking shoes, so we walked all over Milan window shopping.
We found a nice Italian restaurant for a lunch of white wine, a shared mixed salad, spaghetti with tomato sauce and veal parmagiana with mushrooms.
Then we continued walking and shopping, visiting several of the 'top 10' Surplus, Rufus, Vestimoda Stock; and one suggested by the hotel 'Il Salvagente'. We stopped by for a beer on our way back to the hotel, and were served a plate of potato chips, and another plate of snacks, like olives, bread sticks, canapes, and other goodies, for E5 each, total E10.
We found a nice Italian restaurant for a lunch of white wine, a shared mixed salad, spaghetti with tomato sauce and veal parmagiana with mushrooms.
Then we continued walking and shopping, visiting several of the 'top 10' Surplus, Rufus, Vestimoda Stock; and one suggested by the hotel 'Il Salvagente'. We stopped by for a beer on our way back to the hotel, and were served a plate of potato chips, and another plate of snacks, like olives, bread sticks, canapes, and other goodies, for E5 each, total E10.
Tue 30 Sep- on to Milan, good pasta at 'Al Cantinone'
Tue 30 Sep- we left for Trieste, Italy driven by Ivan. We actually drove through Slovenia for a short distance before entering Italy. From Trieste we took the train to Venice, where we changed trains for Milan. The Milan Centrale station was just across the street from Le Meridien Gallia, where we are staying, so it was just a short walk.
After a short rest, we took a walk past the Teatro Alla Scala and through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and ended up in the Duomo area, where we decided to have dinner at the Ristorante Anzani as recommended by the book 'Top 10 Milan & the Lakes', but which seemed to be renamed to 'Al Cantinone'. We had a very nice Strevi Moscato d'Asti wine, shared a rucolo (arugula) salad with proscuitto (E`10), spaghetti with pine nuts, pepperoncini and bottarga (a dried seafood) (E15), and spaghetti with gamberi (shrimps) and zucchini (E13); total E59. It was a bit expensive, but worth it for the quality and ambience. The pasta was really good, a smooth texture and delightful taste, noticeably different and much better than we usually have.
After a short rest, we took a walk past the Teatro Alla Scala and through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and ended up in the Duomo area, where we decided to have dinner at the Ristorante Anzani as recommended by the book 'Top 10 Milan & the Lakes', but which seemed to be renamed to 'Al Cantinone'. We had a very nice Strevi Moscato d'Asti wine, shared a rucolo (arugula) salad with proscuitto (E`10), spaghetti with pine nuts, pepperoncini and bottarga (a dried seafood) (E15), and spaghetti with gamberi (shrimps) and zucchini (E13); total E59. It was a bit expensive, but worth it for the quality and ambience. The pasta was really good, a smooth texture and delightful taste, noticeably different and much better than we usually have.
Mon 29 Sep- last day in Kastav - goodbyes
Mon 29 Sep- after breakfast we went to the library to work on the Internet. We said our goodbyes to the librarian who we had gotten to know over the past month. We finished the last-minute packing and cleaning, and cooked the last of our food for lunch.
In the evening we met with Ivan and Rajka at the Ribarnica Restaurant in Volosko. We had a plate of shrimp and octopus salad to start, then a large seafood platter with grilled squid and several different fish. It was delicious, fresh, and perfectly cooked. Afterwards, we went to the 5-star Admiral Hotel in Opatija to talk and enjoy the night view. They had presents for us, souvenirs of Croatia that we will treasure as memories of our stay here.
In the evening we met with Ivan and Rajka at the Ribarnica Restaurant in Volosko. We had a plate of shrimp and octopus salad to start, then a large seafood platter with grilled squid and several different fish. It was delicious, fresh, and perfectly cooked. Afterwards, we went to the 5-star Admiral Hotel in Opatija to talk and enjoy the night view. They had presents for us, souvenirs of Croatia that we will treasure as memories of our stay here.
Sun 28 Sep- Info on a good travel representative in Croatia
Sun 28 Sep- we spent the morning getting ready to move to Italy. We will be sorry to leave this comfortable apartment and relaxing life we have enjoyed the past three weeks in Croatia.
If anyone is interested in getting more information about Croatia, Ivan Salamon (Marcelji 18, 51216 VIŠKOVO, CROATIA; mobile phone: +385 91 5204623; email: ivan.salamon@gmail.com) would be happy to help. He works for the Croatian Tourist Office, so can have literature and brochures sent from the oversea offices in many countries (including Japan and USA). Ivan has been a great resource and a wonderful guide during our stay.
For lunch we went again to the Vidikovac, where we had the mixed meat grill of beef, chicken, sausage and pork with French fries and vegetables, accompanied by a half-liter of red wine. To our surprise, Drazen treated us to our last lunch at his restaurant. He has been a good landlord, providing a space heater when the weather turned cold, and an iron and ironing board.
After lunch we went around town taking photos of the places we wanted to remember: the laundry, the hairdresser, the library, the shops, our apartment, the interesting architecture, and other landmarks. Then we continued packing for our departure.
If anyone is interested in getting more information about Croatia, Ivan Salamon (Marcelji 18, 51216 VIŠKOVO, CROATIA; mobile phone: +385 91 5204623; email: ivan.salamon@gmail.com) would be happy to help. He works for the Croatian Tourist Office, so can have literature and brochures sent from the oversea offices in many countries (including Japan and USA). Ivan has been a great resource and a wonderful guide during our stay.
For lunch we went again to the Vidikovac, where we had the mixed meat grill of beef, chicken, sausage and pork with French fries and vegetables, accompanied by a half-liter of red wine. To our surprise, Drazen treated us to our last lunch at his restaurant. He has been a good landlord, providing a space heater when the weather turned cold, and an iron and ironing board.
After lunch we went around town taking photos of the places we wanted to remember: the laundry, the hairdresser, the library, the shops, our apartment, the interesting architecture, and other landmarks. Then we continued packing for our departure.
Sat 27 Sep- Hotel Villa Astra and Opatija
Sat 27 Sep- our breakfast was delicious, eggs cooked just for us, delicious bread and croissants, freshly-squeezed orange juice, excellent coffee brewed fresh for us - it was a great experience.
After breakfast, Kiyomi enjoyed the Wellness program with a relaxing massage while Stan worked on the Internet, uploading photos and sending the newsletter.
We were so reluctant to leave we invited Ivan to have lunch with us outside on the terrace overlooking the sea. We were the only guests outside, so all we heard was the sea waves and the wind; it had warmed up to about 18-19 C, so the terrace was comfortable. We had shrimp risotto, mixed green arugula salad, the Muscat wine we enjoyed last night, and apple strudel and cheesecake for dessert; then a cup of espresso to finish the meal.
Ivan drove us into Opatija, where we walked up and down the main street, Marsala Tita Boulevard. We visited Ivan's Tourist Info office; then had coffee and bought some of the famous Kras chocolates at the 'Chocó Bar'. We visited the Angiolina Park after Kiyomi smelled 'kinmokusei' (Sweet Olive/Osmanthus Fragrans) in the air and we traced it there. We found three large trees in full bloom, scenting the air with their sweet fragrance. Kiyomi was delighted to be able to smell it so far from Japan and our yard, so we sat there for a few minutes just enjoying the smell.
After breakfast, Kiyomi enjoyed the Wellness program with a relaxing massage while Stan worked on the Internet, uploading photos and sending the newsletter.
We were so reluctant to leave we invited Ivan to have lunch with us outside on the terrace overlooking the sea. We were the only guests outside, so all we heard was the sea waves and the wind; it had warmed up to about 18-19 C, so the terrace was comfortable. We had shrimp risotto, mixed green arugula salad, the Muscat wine we enjoyed last night, and apple strudel and cheesecake for dessert; then a cup of espresso to finish the meal.
Ivan drove us into Opatija, where we walked up and down the main street, Marsala Tita Boulevard. We visited Ivan's Tourist Info office; then had coffee and bought some of the famous Kras chocolates at the 'Chocó Bar'. We visited the Angiolina Park after Kiyomi smelled 'kinmokusei' (Sweet Olive/Osmanthus Fragrans) in the air and we traced it there. We found three large trees in full bloom, scenting the air with their sweet fragrance. Kiyomi was delighted to be able to smell it so far from Japan and our yard, so we sat there for a few minutes just enjoying the smell.
Fri 26 Sep- Hotel Villa Astra and Lovran
Fri 26 Sep- today we are spending the night in Hotel Villa Astra in Lovran, a quiet historical town a few kilometers west of bustling Opatija. The Villa Astra is a 100-year old villa converted and renovated in 2002 to a 5-star hotel with only six rooms. The staff were very friendly and accommodating, and greeted us with a large dish of fruit. Our room has a beautiful view of the Adriatic from the balcony and window. The hotel garden exits to the pedestrian promenade that runs along the seaside. This is a great hotel for just relaxing, taking a walk along the promenade, enjoying the fresh air and ambience as you walk by other old villas with their nice gardens on one side, and the sea on the other.
It was a cloudy, windy chilly 14-15 C day, but we took a walk along the seaside promenade to the Lovran old town, where we wandered through the winding narrow lanes, admiring the architecture. The restaurants were inviting, but we had half-board at Villa Astra, so passed them by.
We enjoyed a wonderful dinner of fish soup, salad, a light white Muscat wine, fresh langoustes, squid and fish grilled to perfection, and the traditional chard with potato on the side; then a delicious apple strudel for dessert.
When we returned to our room, there was the famous delicious 'Kras' chocolates on our bed stand. The double windows kept any noise our, and kept our room at a very comfortable temperature, so we had a restful sleep.
It was a cloudy, windy chilly 14-15 C day, but we took a walk along the seaside promenade to the Lovran old town, where we wandered through the winding narrow lanes, admiring the architecture. The restaurants were inviting, but we had half-board at Villa Astra, so passed them by.
We enjoyed a wonderful dinner of fish soup, salad, a light white Muscat wine, fresh langoustes, squid and fish grilled to perfection, and the traditional chard with potato on the side; then a delicious apple strudel for dessert.
When we returned to our room, there was the famous delicious 'Kras' chocolates on our bed stand. The double windows kept any noise our, and kept our room at a very comfortable temperature, so we had a restful sleep.
Thu 25 Sep- our radio interview
Thu 25 Sep- it is another cool 14-15 C cloudy day in Kastav. Ivan went with us to the Maximum radio station, 90.30 FM, which is located about 80 meters from our apartment in Kastav. The station is located in rooms that were once part of a priest's residence. The interview lasted about an hour, and asked for our impressions of Croatia in general, how it differed from our expectations, our feelings about the people, our favorite cuisine, our first impressions of Rijeka and Kastav, and other comments about our experiences in Croatia. We said that since we don't have room in our luggage, our photos, videos and memories will be our souvenirs; we will be able to share these with friends and family.
After the interview, we visited the Kastav city museum, which maintains a history of Kastav from prehistoric times to the present. There are many photos of the city from 100 or more years ago, photos and articles from the various wars that have affected Kastav and Croatia, household implements and toys from olden days, etc.
Later in the day we had another interview with a professor/photographer who also writes a column for a local newspaper. We gave many of the same replies we had given earlier at our radio interview. I'm sure he was glad to hear our impressions and opinions on Croatia are so positive, and that we have so completely enjoyed our stay here.
After the interview, we visited the Kastav city museum, which maintains a history of Kastav from prehistoric times to the present. There are many photos of the city from 100 or more years ago, photos and articles from the various wars that have affected Kastav and Croatia, household implements and toys from olden days, etc.
Later in the day we had another interview with a professor/photographer who also writes a column for a local newspaper. We gave many of the same replies we had given earlier at our radio interview. I'm sure he was glad to hear our impressions and opinions on Croatia are so positive, and that we have so completely enjoyed our stay here.
Wed 24 Sep- fresh fish and octopus
http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Wed 24 Sep- Kiyomi had her second appointment with the dentist, this time to install the crown. She was once again very impressed with her efficiency, neatness and gentle touch. The crown fits perfectly, is smooth and feels natural.
Ivan stopped by to deliver a small octopus and a bag full of fresh fish (similar to mackerel) that one of his friends had caught this morning. We are finally getting the fish we were hoping for. Kiyomi fried the fish and the octopus; she also marinated some of the fish in lemon juice. We had an enjoyable lunch, along with the red wine.
Ivan told us he has set up an interview on the Maximum radio station for tomorrow. It should be interesting, since it's usually Kiyomi interviewing people, asking about their computer use, continuing education and elearning experiences.
We took another walk in the woods for exercise and fresh air, enjoying the cool 18-19 C cloudy afternoon. Afterward Kiyomi packed our summer clothes to return via mail to the US. It is pretty expensive, about $100 for up to 25 kg. DHL and FedEx are even more expensive, because they go by air freight. The mail will go by ship and take about 3 weeks. It will lighten our luggage somewhat, but the main purpose is to make room the clothes she intends to buy in Milan.
For dinner we had more of the octopus and fish. We have so much food now that we won't be able to go out for many dinners at restaurants.
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Wed 24 Sep- Kiyomi had her second appointment with the dentist, this time to install the crown. She was once again very impressed with her efficiency, neatness and gentle touch. The crown fits perfectly, is smooth and feels natural.
Ivan stopped by to deliver a small octopus and a bag full of fresh fish (similar to mackerel) that one of his friends had caught this morning. We are finally getting the fish we were hoping for. Kiyomi fried the fish and the octopus; she also marinated some of the fish in lemon juice. We had an enjoyable lunch, along with the red wine.
Ivan told us he has set up an interview on the Maximum radio station for tomorrow. It should be interesting, since it's usually Kiyomi interviewing people, asking about their computer use, continuing education and elearning experiences.
We took another walk in the woods for exercise and fresh air, enjoying the cool 18-19 C cloudy afternoon. Afterward Kiyomi packed our summer clothes to return via mail to the US. It is pretty expensive, about $100 for up to 25 kg. DHL and FedEx are even more expensive, because they go by air freight. The mail will go by ship and take about 3 weeks. It will lighten our luggage somewhat, but the main purpose is to make room the clothes she intends to buy in Milan.
For dinner we had more of the octopus and fish. We have so much food now that we won't be able to go out for many dinners at restaurants.
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