Tue 23 Sep- after a quick breakfast, Stan took a taxi to the private clinic 'Poliklinica Medico' at Mestroviceva 2 in Rijeka to have the PT/INR test done. They knew exactly what was required (they called the test PV), and taking only name, date of birth, fax number for results, the $13 fee, and a blood sample, were finished quickly and efficiently. I didn't even get a chance to open the book I brought in case there was a long wait. From the time leaving Kastav to return was less than 1 hour (and it's a 15-minute cab ride at $12 each way, plus a 5-10 minute wait for the taxi). Once again I'm impressed with the European health care system. Next challenge will be the Italian system, in the Lake Como region away from the cities.
Kiyomi worked on her article while Stan wrote a few postcards. We got some interesting postcards during our travels, but haven't had an opportunity to send them yet. We rely mainly on email. It is much easier to type one message to many friends and relatives than hand-write individual messages. We've also found that snail mail from overseas takes a long time, and sometimes never arrives. The Croatian keyboard is very similar to the US layout; just the letters z and y are swapped; and many of the punctuation and special characters are not where expected. The easiest work-around is to create documents on our computer, save as text or Word, and copy or attach to Gmail from a memory stick.
For lunch Kiyomi fixed the sausage and pork, plus some more of the vegetables we got at the Farmers Market. It's really nice to have the ability to cook the local foods we like the way we like them. The sausage was delicious with a nice piquancy; the pork was like a nicely smoked ham, with no fat - just delicious meat. To burn off some of the calories, we took hour-long walk in the woods behind Kastav. We got lots of exercise and fresh air on the cool 17 C partly cloudy day. It seems Fall arrived a week or so before the official change of seasons yesterday at the equinox.
We tuned in to CNN and CNBC to follow the financial crisis, wondering what the unintended consequences will be, and who will benefit or suffer.
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Mon 22 Sep- a trip to the dentist
Mon 22 Sep- we had a light breakfast: coffee, cereal with banana slices, fresh prunes and dried figs. Kiyomi's tooth had lost its crown several days ago, so we visited the local dentist (about 50 meters from our apartment, just through the old city gate). Kiyomi was very impressed with her expertise and sensitivity. We stopped by the library on the way back to check email and return the borrowed book.
Kiyomi fixed the vegetables, tuna and octopus we bought yesterday, and we had a delicious seafood lunch.
After lunch we went to the clinic to have Stan's PT/INR done, but found they only do the test in the morning and cannot keep the sample overnight. The clinic is in Rijeka near the huge supermarket like Costco named Kaufland, so we walked over to get soy sauce, mustard and Thai chili sauce; but we could not find any wasabi.
Back at the apartment, Kiyomi invited Ivan to try some Japanese style food, since he was kind enough to bring us some of his excellent red wine, some sausage and a pork steak that his father wanted us to try. Kiyomi fixed some octopus-cucumber salad, octopus spaghetti, seared tuna with salad greens, and a tomato-hard boiled egg salad. We had a very enjoyable conversation while we ate, with him and his friend from Pula, who is a TV program producer, a cook and a world traveler - he had been in Kobe, Japan so he and Kiyomi discussed Japanese cuisine, then he had many recipes for Croatian and other food preparation.
Kiyomi fixed the vegetables, tuna and octopus we bought yesterday, and we had a delicious seafood lunch.
After lunch we went to the clinic to have Stan's PT/INR done, but found they only do the test in the morning and cannot keep the sample overnight. The clinic is in Rijeka near the huge supermarket like Costco named Kaufland, so we walked over to get soy sauce, mustard and Thai chili sauce; but we could not find any wasabi.
Back at the apartment, Kiyomi invited Ivan to try some Japanese style food, since he was kind enough to bring us some of his excellent red wine, some sausage and a pork steak that his father wanted us to try. Kiyomi fixed some octopus-cucumber salad, octopus spaghetti, seared tuna with salad greens, and a tomato-hard boiled egg salad. We had a very enjoyable conversation while we ate, with him and his friend from Pula, who is a TV program producer, a cook and a world traveler - he had been in Kobe, Japan so he and Kiyomi discussed Japanese cuisine, then he had many recipes for Croatian and other food preparation.
Sun 21 Sep- Farmers Markets, feast at Konoba 'Ribarnica Volosko'
Sun 21 Sep- after breakfast on a cool 13 C cloudy day, we met with Ivan to see the markets in Rijeka. There are three: green, meat and fish. Outside the buildings there are dozens of stalls with fresh produce of all kinds on sale by farmers - fruits, vegetables, spices, herbs, etc. In the markets, which are 100-year or more old protected structures, there are the more established vendors of produce and fruits; meats; and fish. We bought some fresh tuna, octopus, tomatoes, beans, lettuce, lemons, peppers and basil.
After dropping off the groceries, we continued to the neighboring town Volosko to the Konoba 'Ribarnica Volosko' for a fish feast: a white fish pate spread for the bread, grilled shrimp, a heaping plate of tiny fried fish finger food, a platter of grilled ray, whole fish and fried calamari, accompanied by white wine. It was delicious, fresh and skillfully cooked, and plenty to satisfy our appetites.
We walked around Volosko admiring the old villas and interesting architecture. Many of the villas were built by captains and owners of fishing ships of the 19th century. There are narrow winding roads too narrow for cars (and no place to park anyway), staircases up and down connecting the roads, other little seafood restaurants, art shops, museums, churches and chapels.
Ivan took us then to a hotel and restaurant high over Lovran that had an incredible view of the surroundings. On the way back, we stopped by Hotel Astra to see the rooms we are considering to stay one night in for the experience. The hotel is a protected villa with only six or so rooms available. We saw the Red and Green Rooms, and were quite impressed by the luxury and beautiful decorations.
After dropping off the groceries, we continued to the neighboring town Volosko to the Konoba 'Ribarnica Volosko' for a fish feast: a white fish pate spread for the bread, grilled shrimp, a heaping plate of tiny fried fish finger food, a platter of grilled ray, whole fish and fried calamari, accompanied by white wine. It was delicious, fresh and skillfully cooked, and plenty to satisfy our appetites.
We walked around Volosko admiring the old villas and interesting architecture. Many of the villas were built by captains and owners of fishing ships of the 19th century. There are narrow winding roads too narrow for cars (and no place to park anyway), staircases up and down connecting the roads, other little seafood restaurants, art shops, museums, churches and chapels.
Ivan took us then to a hotel and restaurant high over Lovran that had an incredible view of the surroundings. On the way back, we stopped by Hotel Astra to see the rooms we are considering to stay one night in for the experience. The hotel is a protected villa with only six or so rooms available. We saw the Red and Green Rooms, and were quite impressed by the luxury and beautiful decorations.
Sat 20 Sep- a quiet day in Kastav
Sat 20 Sep- after a late breakfast, we spent a relaxing day in Kastav, talking over coffee to a professor/photographer, his wife and their visitor from Zagreb. We enjoyed listening to their opinions and observations about conditions in Croatia.
Kiyomi fixed a hot vegetable soup for dinner, very welcome on this chilly 15 C day.
Kiyomi fixed a hot vegetable soup for dinner, very welcome on this chilly 15 C day.
Fri 19 Sep- Relaxing in Kastav
Fri 19 Sep- we had bread from the local bakery for breakfast; Stan had a chocolate croissant and Kiyomi had a vanilla-filled donut. Kiyomi worked on her report for a while. Then we went to the library and while she filed her report and looked for a hotel on the waterfront in Lovran while Stan read the exciting conclusion of 'Triple'.
The weather is still partly cloudy and chilly 15-16 C. For lunch we decided to try the highly-recommended 'Bistro Pizzeria Loza' just down the street from our apartment. We had draft 'Hirter - since 1270' and split a large combo pizza. It was indeed delicious, and the bill was just $12.
We stopped by Drazen's restaurant Vidikovac (which means 'a beautiful view', and is no exaggeration) to pay the weekly rent and had a white coffee (an espresso with lots of milk) while we had a long talk with him about the restaurant business and the rental apartment business. Even in Croatia it is expensive to renovate and maintain a restaurant or apartment. He is optimistic that the economy will continue to improve, and tourism will become even more important.
The temperature had warmed to 19-20 C, so we decided to take a walk. We went down a street we had not taken before, past very nice new or recently renovated houses high on the hill facing southwest, overlooking the Adriatic and Opatija and the Istrian peninsula. We are impressed by the economic recovery over the past 10 years or so since they became independent. We passed a very nice stone building that houses the local school; it was as good as any in the USA. The school kids also seemed just like their American counterparts, talking and laughing as they walked with their friends, dressed in fashionable young peoples' clothes.
Kiyomi fixed grilled vegetables, salad and boiled beets she got fresh from the local fruit & vegetable shop. With the white wine we got from Ivan, it was a satisfying and enjoyable meal.
We listened to CNN and CNBC report on the amazing recovery of the world stock markets and the huge bail-outs and wondered how that will affect our taxes and lifestyle in the future. We expect painful unintended consequences for poor and middle class people as the rich and greedy take advantage of new opportunities and loopholes.
The weather is still partly cloudy and chilly 15-16 C. For lunch we decided to try the highly-recommended 'Bistro Pizzeria Loza' just down the street from our apartment. We had draft 'Hirter - since 1270' and split a large combo pizza. It was indeed delicious, and the bill was just $12.
We stopped by Drazen's restaurant Vidikovac (which means 'a beautiful view', and is no exaggeration) to pay the weekly rent and had a white coffee (an espresso with lots of milk) while we had a long talk with him about the restaurant business and the rental apartment business. Even in Croatia it is expensive to renovate and maintain a restaurant or apartment. He is optimistic that the economy will continue to improve, and tourism will become even more important.
The temperature had warmed to 19-20 C, so we decided to take a walk. We went down a street we had not taken before, past very nice new or recently renovated houses high on the hill facing southwest, overlooking the Adriatic and Opatija and the Istrian peninsula. We are impressed by the economic recovery over the past 10 years or so since they became independent. We passed a very nice stone building that houses the local school; it was as good as any in the USA. The school kids also seemed just like their American counterparts, talking and laughing as they walked with their friends, dressed in fashionable young peoples' clothes.
Kiyomi fixed grilled vegetables, salad and boiled beets she got fresh from the local fruit & vegetable shop. With the white wine we got from Ivan, it was a satisfying and enjoyable meal.
We listened to CNN and CNBC report on the amazing recovery of the world stock markets and the huge bail-outs and wondered how that will affect our taxes and lifestyle in the future. We expect painful unintended consequences for poor and middle class people as the rich and greedy take advantage of new opportunities and loopholes.
Thu 18 Sep- Relaxing in Kastav
Thu 18 Sep- we had a light breakfast, and watched the meltdown of the mortgage lenders, banks and financial market. We were quite surprised by the sudden drop in the Dow, NASDAQ and other markets. It was hard to believe the loss of equity and the turmoil being reported by CNN and CNBC. We were wondering how it would affect us in the near and long term.
For lunch, Kiyomi cooked the trout we got yesterday. Due to the low temperature in the car, and storing in refrigerator, the fish were still quite fresh. She sauteed them in olive oil, cooked with some chard and garlic, and served with the white wine we got from Ivan. It was a delicious lunch.
Afterward we watched more meltdown, Kiyomi worked and Stan read 'Triple'. Then went to the library to check our email and use the Internet. It was cool at 14-15 C and partly cloudy; it seems winter has arrived in Croatia.
For dinner we had the rest of the trout as a cold salad with cucumber and other vegetables, beets and a kind of yellow bean that was quite good. We finished off the bottle of red wind that Ivan had given us last week, enjoying it completely.
For lunch, Kiyomi cooked the trout we got yesterday. Due to the low temperature in the car, and storing in refrigerator, the fish were still quite fresh. She sauteed them in olive oil, cooked with some chard and garlic, and served with the white wine we got from Ivan. It was a delicious lunch.
Afterward we watched more meltdown, Kiyomi worked and Stan read 'Triple'. Then went to the library to check our email and use the Internet. It was cool at 14-15 C and partly cloudy; it seems winter has arrived in Croatia.
For dinner we had the rest of the trout as a cold salad with cucumber and other vegetables, beets and a kind of yellow bean that was quite good. We finished off the bottle of red wind that Ivan had given us last week, enjoying it completely.
Wed 17 Sep - Plitvice Lakes National Park
Wed 17 Sep - after the included very nice buffet breakfast, we headed for Plitvice Lakes National Park (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plitvice_Lakes).
The lakes are on the Plitvice plateau, between the mountains of Lièka Plješevica, Mala Kapela and Medveðak.
'The Plitvice Lakes lie in a basin of karstic rock, mainly dolomite and limestone, which has given rise to their most distinctive feature. The lakes are separated by natural dams of travertine, which is deposited by the action of moss, algae and bacteria. The encrusted plants and bacteria accumulate on top of each other, forming travertine barriers which grow at the rate of about 1 cm per year. The lakes are renowned for their distinctive colors, ranging from azure to green, grey or blue. The colors change constantly depending on the quantity of minerals or organisms in the water and the angle of sunlight.'
As we were crossing the mountains, the Bura was still very strong, so warnings were posted for high wind conditions. It was a windy chilly cloudy day, 13-14 C, and the wind chill made it seem colder. Ivan had told us that the Park is one of the most beautiful places in the world, and is a UNESCO site. On the way, we stopped by the home of one of Ivan's friends who is an ambulance driver and raises trout in water from a spring in back of his house that dates from the time of Empress Maria Theresa. He gave us 3 live, fresh trout to try.
Admission to the park was $22/person; this included boat rides on the lakes and a bus ride back to the parking lot. We had coffee ($5.50 for the three of us), bought socks for warmth, wore our warmest clothes, and bought a snack of famous Plitvice pies. We took the trail to the lakes, and were amazed at the number and height of waterfalls and cascades. There is a lot of water flowing through the park, and this is the low season! We walked from lake to lake, each one higher than the other, which leads to the cascades as one lake overflows into the next. The water color also changes from lake to lake, beautiful shades of blues and greens. We were amazed at the variety vegetation, the incredible clarity and cleanliness of the water, the freshness of the air at 10-11 C, the number of fish (trout and others) visible from the trails, and the variety in coloration of the lakes. There is a lot of chemistry going on to create all the colors, and the formation of travertine.
After five hours of hiking, we headed back to 'Restoran Licka Kuca' for dinner: bread with fresh cheese spread; beer, broiled potatoes, grilled mushrooms, a platter of mixed grilled meat, for a total of $68 for the three of us. It was a delicious meal, and we were glad to be sitting near the grill where we could get warmed up after our hike.
As we returned 'home', we saw the outside temperature drop down to 1 C as we were in the valley between mountain ranges, but by the time we arrived in Kastav, it was up to about 12 C.
The lakes are on the Plitvice plateau, between the mountains of Lièka Plješevica, Mala Kapela and Medveðak.
'The Plitvice Lakes lie in a basin of karstic rock, mainly dolomite and limestone, which has given rise to their most distinctive feature. The lakes are separated by natural dams of travertine, which is deposited by the action of moss, algae and bacteria. The encrusted plants and bacteria accumulate on top of each other, forming travertine barriers which grow at the rate of about 1 cm per year. The lakes are renowned for their distinctive colors, ranging from azure to green, grey or blue. The colors change constantly depending on the quantity of minerals or organisms in the water and the angle of sunlight.'
As we were crossing the mountains, the Bura was still very strong, so warnings were posted for high wind conditions. It was a windy chilly cloudy day, 13-14 C, and the wind chill made it seem colder. Ivan had told us that the Park is one of the most beautiful places in the world, and is a UNESCO site. On the way, we stopped by the home of one of Ivan's friends who is an ambulance driver and raises trout in water from a spring in back of his house that dates from the time of Empress Maria Theresa. He gave us 3 live, fresh trout to try.
Admission to the park was $22/person; this included boat rides on the lakes and a bus ride back to the parking lot. We had coffee ($5.50 for the three of us), bought socks for warmth, wore our warmest clothes, and bought a snack of famous Plitvice pies. We took the trail to the lakes, and were amazed at the number and height of waterfalls and cascades. There is a lot of water flowing through the park, and this is the low season! We walked from lake to lake, each one higher than the other, which leads to the cascades as one lake overflows into the next. The water color also changes from lake to lake, beautiful shades of blues and greens. We were amazed at the variety vegetation, the incredible clarity and cleanliness of the water, the freshness of the air at 10-11 C, the number of fish (trout and others) visible from the trails, and the variety in coloration of the lakes. There is a lot of chemistry going on to create all the colors, and the formation of travertine.
After five hours of hiking, we headed back to 'Restoran Licka Kuca' for dinner: bread with fresh cheese spread; beer, broiled potatoes, grilled mushrooms, a platter of mixed grilled meat, for a total of $68 for the three of us. It was a delicious meal, and we were glad to be sitting near the grill where we could get warmed up after our hike.
As we returned 'home', we saw the outside temperature drop down to 1 C as we were in the valley between mountain ranges, but by the time we arrived in Kastav, it was up to about 12 C.
Tue 16 Sep - to Senj and Zadar
Tue 16 Sep - we left Kastav after breakfast to go south to Zadar (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zadar). On the way, we stopped by to visit the Nehaj fortress in Senj. The fortress was built in 1558 to defend Senj from the Venetians and Turks. After many years of fighting, Croatia joined the Austro-Hungarian empire for help in defending themselves, but apparently didn't get much military support. It must have been a difficult time, with battles and massacres a normal part of life. We were glad to be visiting in a peaceful time.
We had a light lunch of local white wine, bread, salad and fried calamari. We would have eaten more, but they did not accept credit cards and did not have grilled fish on the menu.
Continuing to Zadar, we drove along the coast enjoying the beautiful mountains to the east and the Adriatic with the many islands on the right. The occasional wind storm called 'bura' had developed over the past several days, so it was very windy and cold (10-11 C) as we went up into the mountains. Arriving in Zadar, we checked in to the Borik Hotel Falkensteiner. Our room at $145 was much more expensive than our Kastav apartment, and didn't even have a bathtub, just a shower. We missed our 'home' in Kastav!
We found out there is a good fish restaurant nearby, the 'Roko', to we headed over there for dinner. Ivan had rice with shrimp ($13) and shellfish, Stan had rice with scampi and shrimp ($12), Kiyomi chose a fresh fish 'riba' from a platter and asked for it to be grilled ($38). Everyone was satisfied with the quantity and quality of food, although the fish was pretty expensive. With Karlovaco beer and drinks, the total was $72, not bad for 3 persons, especially considering the high cost of fish. We were surprised that fish is so expensive considering Croatia is on the Adriatic, but apparently it is due to the high demand from other countries, which raises the price locally. Meat, shellfish and vegetables are much less expensive.
After dinner we went to see the old town, and a unique construction known as the Sea Organ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_organ). It is a 'musical instrument' that plays music when sea waves interact with tubes and a resonating cavity underneath the marble walkway. The waves create random but harmonic music that sounds like an organ or flute.
We had a light lunch of local white wine, bread, salad and fried calamari. We would have eaten more, but they did not accept credit cards and did not have grilled fish on the menu.
Continuing to Zadar, we drove along the coast enjoying the beautiful mountains to the east and the Adriatic with the many islands on the right. The occasional wind storm called 'bura' had developed over the past several days, so it was very windy and cold (10-11 C) as we went up into the mountains. Arriving in Zadar, we checked in to the Borik Hotel Falkensteiner. Our room at $145 was much more expensive than our Kastav apartment, and didn't even have a bathtub, just a shower. We missed our 'home' in Kastav!
We found out there is a good fish restaurant nearby, the 'Roko', to we headed over there for dinner. Ivan had rice with shrimp ($13) and shellfish, Stan had rice with scampi and shrimp ($12), Kiyomi chose a fresh fish 'riba' from a platter and asked for it to be grilled ($38). Everyone was satisfied with the quantity and quality of food, although the fish was pretty expensive. With Karlovaco beer and drinks, the total was $72, not bad for 3 persons, especially considering the high cost of fish. We were surprised that fish is so expensive considering Croatia is on the Adriatic, but apparently it is due to the high demand from other countries, which raises the price locally. Meat, shellfish and vegetables are much less expensive.
After dinner we went to see the old town, and a unique construction known as the Sea Organ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_organ). It is a 'musical instrument' that plays music when sea waves interact with tubes and a resonating cavity underneath the marble walkway. The waves create random but harmonic music that sounds like an organ or flute.
Mon 15 Sep- the islands Cres and Krk
http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Mon 15 Sep- getting an early start on a chilly 15-16 C, windy, partly cloudy day, Ivan took us on a scenic drive along the coast toward Pula, to Brestova, where we caught a ferry to Cres, a beautiful island in the Adriatic. The drive went through several towns like Opatija, Lovran and others on the Croatian Rivera, then southwest along the coast overlooking the Adriatic, with beautiful views of the Adriatic and the opposite coast.
The ferry transports vehicles and passengers, and took about 1/2 hour to reach Cres. On Cres, we drove around enjoying the natural beauty of the island, and the views of the mainland across the Adriatic. Apparently lamb and honey are the major products of the island; the population has decreased since WWII, but during the summer, thousands of visitors come to stay, many returning year after year.
We met a 95-year old priest in Beli, who is the oldest in Europe still giving Mass, and enjoyed a glass of plum wine with him. We saw an old olive oil production facility, which was a huge round stone that was turned by four men to crush the olives; the oil was collected, cleaned using hot water, and skimmed into containers for storage and transport. Ivan introduced us to one of his neighbors, who is currently living on Cres for the summer, and we enjoyed a glass of brandy made from honey.
We stopped by 'Eko centar Caput Insulae Beli' where we saw the endangered Eurasian Griffons (a kind of vulture) that were rescued and would be returned to the wild when they could fly (www.caput-insulae.com, www.supovi.hr); and two pet donkeys, a mother and a month-old cute little colt. The center is run by volunteers from all over the world; our guide was a university student from Zagreb.
The sheep on Cres eat grass that has been flavored by the salt water spray blown up from the Adriatic by the bura (a periodic very strong local wind), so the sheep take on a special unique flavor. We invited Ivan to join us in sampling the lamb at 'Gostionica (Restaurant) Bukaleta' that specializes in it. We had wine, bread with a special cheese spread, mixed salad, mineral water, an assortment of baked lamb, breaded/fried lamb, and roast lamb: 'peceni krumpir', 'mjesana salata', 'domace vino', 'gazirani sokovi', 'mjesana janjetina'. The cost for the three of us was $85. We then drove to the major city, Cres, to walk through the old town. It is a very pretty city, with many old and ancient buildings still in use. We realized that some of the buildings were old before Columbus discovered America.
We took another ferry to Krk Island for a drive back to Kastav; since it was dark, we did not stop by anywhere, but the lights in Rijeka were beautiful to see across the Adriatic. We drove across the bridge linking the island to the mainland, and back north to Kastav.
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Mon 15 Sep- getting an early start on a chilly 15-16 C, windy, partly cloudy day, Ivan took us on a scenic drive along the coast toward Pula, to Brestova, where we caught a ferry to Cres, a beautiful island in the Adriatic. The drive went through several towns like Opatija, Lovran and others on the Croatian Rivera, then southwest along the coast overlooking the Adriatic, with beautiful views of the Adriatic and the opposite coast.
The ferry transports vehicles and passengers, and took about 1/2 hour to reach Cres. On Cres, we drove around enjoying the natural beauty of the island, and the views of the mainland across the Adriatic. Apparently lamb and honey are the major products of the island; the population has decreased since WWII, but during the summer, thousands of visitors come to stay, many returning year after year.
We met a 95-year old priest in Beli, who is the oldest in Europe still giving Mass, and enjoyed a glass of plum wine with him. We saw an old olive oil production facility, which was a huge round stone that was turned by four men to crush the olives; the oil was collected, cleaned using hot water, and skimmed into containers for storage and transport. Ivan introduced us to one of his neighbors, who is currently living on Cres for the summer, and we enjoyed a glass of brandy made from honey.
We stopped by 'Eko centar Caput Insulae Beli' where we saw the endangered Eurasian Griffons (a kind of vulture) that were rescued and would be returned to the wild when they could fly (www.caput-insulae.com, www.supovi.hr); and two pet donkeys, a mother and a month-old cute little colt. The center is run by volunteers from all over the world; our guide was a university student from Zagreb.
The sheep on Cres eat grass that has been flavored by the salt water spray blown up from the Adriatic by the bura (a periodic very strong local wind), so the sheep take on a special unique flavor. We invited Ivan to join us in sampling the lamb at 'Gostionica (Restaurant) Bukaleta' that specializes in it. We had wine, bread with a special cheese spread, mixed salad, mineral water, an assortment of baked lamb, breaded/fried lamb, and roast lamb: 'peceni krumpir', 'mjesana salata', 'domace vino', 'gazirani sokovi', 'mjesana janjetina'. The cost for the three of us was $85. We then drove to the major city, Cres, to walk through the old town. It is a very pretty city, with many old and ancient buildings still in use. We realized that some of the buildings were old before Columbus discovered America.
We took another ferry to Krk Island for a drive back to Kastav; since it was dark, we did not stop by anywhere, but the lights in Rijeka were beautiful to see across the Adriatic. We drove across the bridge linking the island to the mainland, and back north to Kastav.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Sun 14 Sep- visit Trsat cathedral and castle
Sun 14 Sep- it is a windy partly cloudy cold day 13-14 C, so in the morning we stayed in, Kiyomi working and Stan reading until Ivan was free to take us and two journalists from Zagreb to Rijeka to see Trsat. It is above Rijeka, and has been inhabited since prehistoric times. We saw the St. Mary of Trsat church, started in the 13th century as a pilgrimage, which contains an icon reputed to have miraculous powers. We then walked through the Trsat castle, up to the upper battlements for a fantastic view of Rijeka, the Adriatic and the Istrian coast.
Ivan took us to a nearby pizza restaurant, the 'Pampas', where Kiyomi and Stan each ordered the Tuborg draft beer and shared a Polpo pizza (tomato, cheese and octopus). We enjoyed talking to the two journalists from Zagreb about a variety of topics.
The Italian influence on Croatia is due to it being part of Italy for many years; the border between Italy and Yugoslavia ran through the center of Rijeka, so there is lots of Italian architecture and restaurants (especially for pizza and pasta).
Ivan took us to a nearby pizza restaurant, the 'Pampas', where Kiyomi and Stan each ordered the Tuborg draft beer and shared a Polpo pizza (tomato, cheese and octopus). We enjoyed talking to the two journalists from Zagreb about a variety of topics.
The Italian influence on Croatia is due to it being part of Italy for many years; the border between Italy and Yugoslavia ran through the center of Rijeka, so there is lots of Italian architecture and restaurants (especially for pizza and pasta).
Sat 13 Sep- lunch at Vidikovac, farwell party for journalitst
Sat 13 Sep- the weather was cool and threatening rain, so we decided to read and work. We stopped by the library so Kiyomi could do some research, and Stan found a Ken Follett book, 'Triple', a Israeli spy vs. Russian spy vs. Egyptian spy vs. the PLO adventure set in 1968 that the librarian kindly let him borrow without any paperwork. Stan saw many familiar book titles and authors, all in Croatian - technical works (Chaos Theory), lots of travel books from Michelin and others, fiction (many mysteries, adventure, horror, romance), and motivational (would you believe Deepak Chopra!).
We had a great lunch at Vidikovac: draft beer, sides of French fries and Swiss chard with potato and garlic, Kiyomi had fried squid and Stan had the Argentina beefsteak. We were completely satisfied with the quantity (stuffed!) and the quality (delicious). The total was $39.
That evening we were invited to the closing ceremonies of the journalist's tennis tournament. There was champagne and wine, and a very nice buffet, including: octopus salad, cheese of various types, tomato and mozzarella salad, canapes, ravioli stuffed with truffle, grilled zucchini and eggplant, and other tasty dishes. We had interesting discussions about the Eastern Europe experience after the fall of Communism and the opening of the countries to the west. The general consensus was that some things are better, some things are worse, but overall it is a good thing. The older people are more nostalgic for 'the good old days' while the young people resent the decline in education opportunities and lack of jobs. Apparently under Communism, everyone had a job and had to work; schooling was free through the university for those capable of passing the exams; companies provided their workers with housing; health care, although basic, was free. On the other hand, there was no motivation to do anything more than 'good enough'; and good public service was unknown; housing was basic and often uncomfortable; transportation was all public with few private autos.
We had a great lunch at Vidikovac: draft beer, sides of French fries and Swiss chard with potato and garlic, Kiyomi had fried squid and Stan had the Argentina beefsteak. We were completely satisfied with the quantity (stuffed!) and the quality (delicious). The total was $39.
That evening we were invited to the closing ceremonies of the journalist's tennis tournament. There was champagne and wine, and a very nice buffet, including: octopus salad, cheese of various types, tomato and mozzarella salad, canapes, ravioli stuffed with truffle, grilled zucchini and eggplant, and other tasty dishes. We had interesting discussions about the Eastern Europe experience after the fall of Communism and the opening of the countries to the west. The general consensus was that some things are better, some things are worse, but overall it is a good thing. The older people are more nostalgic for 'the good old days' while the young people resent the decline in education opportunities and lack of jobs. Apparently under Communism, everyone had a job and had to work; schooling was free through the university for those capable of passing the exams; companies provided their workers with housing; health care, although basic, was free. On the other hand, there was no motivation to do anything more than 'good enough'; and good public service was unknown; housing was basic and often uncomfortable; transportation was all public with few private autos.
Fri 12 Sep- visit to Rijeka, the sister city of Kawasaki
Fri 12 Sep- it is a warm sunny day 26-27, and we decided to take the bus to Rijeka. The tickets are about $5.60 each for a round trip; the bus takes about 1/2 hour from Kastav down a winding, curving road. We walked around the town center on Korzo Street and the other pedestrian streets in the old town. We saw St. Vitus Cathedral (St. Vitus is the patron saint of Rijeka) and other famous landmarks, then had lunch at the renowned Municipium, which featured fish dishes somewhat overpriced for the quality and quantity, though the other menu choices were reasonable: bread with tuna pate $5, shrimp with pasta $11, 1/2 liter beer for $3.20 each. The fish (Orada) was $74/kg; Kiyomi had 0.45 kg for a charge of $37. She said the fish was good, but not that good.
After lunch we continued down Korzo to the fountains (Fontana Korzo and Fontana Jadranski trg), than headed back towards the bus station, past the Kawasaki fountain (presented to Rijeka by its sister-city Kawasaki, Japan). As we started looking for the bus station, Stan fired up the GPS, and fortunate it was, because we were headed in the wrong direction. It guided us back just in time to catch the bus, even though it does not have a map of Croatia, by saving the arrival point to Favorites, we could find our way back. We made Favorites several other locations, including our apartment in case we get turned around in the forest.
After lunch we continued down Korzo to the fountains (Fontana Korzo and Fontana Jadranski trg), than headed back towards the bus station, past the Kawasaki fountain (presented to Rijeka by its sister-city Kawasaki, Japan). As we started looking for the bus station, Stan fired up the GPS, and fortunate it was, because we were headed in the wrong direction. It guided us back just in time to catch the bus, even though it does not have a map of Croatia, by saving the arrival point to Favorites, we could find our way back. We made Favorites several other locations, including our apartment in case we get turned around in the forest.
Thu 11 Sep- a walk in the woods and meeting international journalists
Thu 11 Sep- it was a beautiful sunny warm day 26-27 C, so we decided to take a hike in the forest behind Kastav. There are several trails, and we chose one. It was very pleasant walking through the forest, enjoying the fresh air. We found out that the area previously was a source of quicklime. The limestone rocks were gathered and put inside a wood structure in a pit, then the whole thing was set on fire, and kept burning for several days. When cooled, the limestone had been converted to quicklime, which was used for construction. We had noticed the beautiful white limestone, partially covered with bright green moss and algae; and we had seen pits that we wondered how they had formed. When we read the poster, it all made sense.
In the afternoon we relaxed, having coffee at the Vidikovac and Stan reading, Kiyomi working on an article.
In the evening, we were invited to a welcome party for a tennis tournament for international journalists, sponsored by several local businesses and organized by our friend Ivan. The party was a dinner at Vidikovac, and featured a range of typical Croatian foods and wine. It was a lively get-together, with journalists from several neighboring countries: Italy, Hungary, Austria, Slovenia, and many from Croatia. We enjoyed talking with them and hearing their views on interesting topics. We left at about 11:30 pm after hearing an accordion player give a recital of folk music, but we heard from Ivan that the party didn't break up until 3 am.
In the afternoon we relaxed, having coffee at the Vidikovac and Stan reading, Kiyomi working on an article.
In the evening, we were invited to a welcome party for a tennis tournament for international journalists, sponsored by several local businesses and organized by our friend Ivan. The party was a dinner at Vidikovac, and featured a range of typical Croatian foods and wine. It was a lively get-together, with journalists from several neighboring countries: Italy, Hungary, Austria, Slovenia, and many from Croatia. We enjoyed talking with them and hearing their views on interesting topics. We left at about 11:30 pm after hearing an accordion player give a recital of folk music, but we heard from Ivan that the party didn't break up until 3 am.
Wed 10 Sep- lunch at 'Kukuriku'
Wed 10 Sep- we spent some time in the library checking email, and Kiyomi had some work matters to check on.
We had heard that a local restaurant 'Kukuriku' has been awarded some of the highest honors, not only in Croatia, but from international food critics. We decided to give it a try for lunch. Kiyomi had a sparkling wine to start, and we were served a tuna pate with crispy crackers as appetizer. A nice gazpacho followed. Then we had a bottle of very nice white wine recommended by the waiter to go with the shrimp with a brandy sauce served as the first course. For the second course, we had a very fancy concoction composed of layers of different ingredients, and wrapped in fish. The total cost was about $124; although the food was quite good, it wasn't that good, especially to Kiyomi's sensitive nose for fish that is not quite fresh.
We had heard that a local restaurant 'Kukuriku' has been awarded some of the highest honors, not only in Croatia, but from international food critics. We decided to give it a try for lunch. Kiyomi had a sparkling wine to start, and we were served a tuna pate with crispy crackers as appetizer. A nice gazpacho followed. Then we had a bottle of very nice white wine recommended by the waiter to go with the shrimp with a brandy sauce served as the first course. For the second course, we had a very fancy concoction composed of layers of different ingredients, and wrapped in fish. The total cost was about $124; although the food was quite good, it wasn't that good, especially to Kiyomi's sensitive nose for fish that is not quite fresh.
Tue 9 Sep- vistit Opatija and seafood dinner
Tue 9 Sep- after doing some morning shopping for fruit and vegetables ('banana', 'nektarina', 'pomidor', 'krastavci', 'balancane', 'cesnjak', 'gljive', paprike', which fortunately we didn't have to identify by name, but could just pick up, all for about $9.30) we decided to visit Opatija, the Croatian Rivera. It is only about 3 or 4 miles away, but down a winding road from our 1200 foot elevation to sea level. A bus goes regularly for a $2.50/person fare, so we checked the schedule at the local tourist info office, and saw it was about an hour to the next bus. We decided to have an Italian lunch at the Pizzeria 'Rustica' just across from the bus stop. We each had a draft Toceno, and shared a large Margarita pizza - delicious, with a thin crisp crust and generous amount of cheese and tomato, for a total cost of about $9.
We walked along the promenade in Opatija, which goes along the Adriatic, with its clear and clean water. It was a sunny warm 27-28 C afternoon, and there were lots of other people enjoying the day. We had coffee in the Grand Hotel Cafe, where we had a nice view of the Adriatic. Many hotels along the water have their own swimming areas, and some connect either under or above the promenade. There are also many public beach areas where apparently swimsuit tops are optional for men and women. We saw several hotels that must have wonderful views from the rooms' balconies, and we started considering spending a few days here overlooking the Adriatic Sea.
We had a seafood dinner at the highly rated and recommended'Plavi Podrum' right at the water's edge. We each had a draft beer; Kiyomi had an octopus salad, Stan had the shrimp and shellfish with pasta; total cost was about $49. We took a taxi back for about $10.
We walked along the promenade in Opatija, which goes along the Adriatic, with its clear and clean water. It was a sunny warm 27-28 C afternoon, and there were lots of other people enjoying the day. We had coffee in the Grand Hotel Cafe, where we had a nice view of the Adriatic. Many hotels along the water have their own swimming areas, and some connect either under or above the promenade. There are also many public beach areas where apparently swimsuit tops are optional for men and women. We saw several hotels that must have wonderful views from the rooms' balconies, and we started considering spending a few days here overlooking the Adriatic Sea.
We had a seafood dinner at the highly rated and recommended'Plavi Podrum' right at the water's edge. We each had a draft beer; Kiyomi had an octopus salad, Stan had the shrimp and shellfish with pasta; total cost was about $49. We took a taxi back for about $10.
Mon 8 Sep- relaxing and working in Kastav
Mon 8 Sep- after a light breakfast of cereal, fruit and coffee on the rooftop terrace where we had a 300-degree view of the surrounding countryside and Adriatic, we visited the library to check the Internet for email, and to let everyone know we arrived here safely. The cost is KN 10/hour ($2), quite reasonable after some of the expensive hotel rates, and KN 1/page printed.
After a light lunch, we spent a few hours over coffee (cappuccino and white coffee for about $3.40) at Vidikovac, Kiyomi working on an article, and Stan reading Timothy Zahn's 'Distant Friends'. It was a beautiful day, so we sat outside on the terrace under a shady arbor enjoying the mild pleasant breeze, with a stunning view of the Adriatic, distant mountains, and Opatija a few miles away, at the bottom of the hill.
In the evening we had dinner at Vidikovac with Ivan, including 'manestrica' (minestrone soup), 'domaci kruh', 'plata Vidikovac' (a mixed grill platter, with chicken, veal, beef and sausage - the sausage provider was Ivan's family; apparently his father is a butcher and makes sausage and proscuitto), Hirter toceno draft beer, and Velebitsko bottled beer that Kiyomi wanted to try. All this for about $43. While we were eating, we learned more about the history and politics of Croatia, and discussed possible trips.
We picked up our laundry, and were surprised by the cost - about $51 for 7 items.
After a light lunch, we spent a few hours over coffee (cappuccino and white coffee for about $3.40) at Vidikovac, Kiyomi working on an article, and Stan reading Timothy Zahn's 'Distant Friends'. It was a beautiful day, so we sat outside on the terrace under a shady arbor enjoying the mild pleasant breeze, with a stunning view of the Adriatic, distant mountains, and Opatija a few miles away, at the bottom of the hill.
In the evening we had dinner at Vidikovac with Ivan, including 'manestrica' (minestrone soup), 'domaci kruh', 'plata Vidikovac' (a mixed grill platter, with chicken, veal, beef and sausage - the sausage provider was Ivan's family; apparently his father is a butcher and makes sausage and proscuitto), Hirter toceno draft beer, and Velebitsko bottled beer that Kiyomi wanted to try. All this for about $43. While we were eating, we learned more about the history and politics of Croatia, and discussed possible trips.
We picked up our laundry, and were surprised by the cost - about $51 for 7 items.
Sun 7 Sep- discovering Kastav 3
Sun 7 Sep- after a leisurely morning breakfast, we met with Ivan for coffee at the Vidikovac to discuss our plans. There are many possibilities, including multi-day cruises of the islands; ferry excursions to Split and Dubrovnik, bus tours to various parks and other places of interest. Then Ivan showed us around Kastav, explaining the places we had noticed and wondered about yesterday.
There was an accordion festival in the afternoon, where accordion players and groups from the surrounding area came and performed in an open-air theater. It was quite interesting to experience the festival; it was as much a social event as a performance - people were greeting friends and having lively conversations as the music played in the background. Everyone seemed happy and friendly, glad to socialize on the nice afternoon about 26-27 C.
Back at the apartment we had a light supper with plenty of vegetables and salad, plus some delicious home-made white wine that Ivan gave us. He also gave us a bottle of red wine, which is also excellent, nice flavor and bouquet, but mild and smooth. Ivan explained that many families make their own wine, and compete to produce the best. His was certainly one of the best!
There was an accordion festival in the afternoon, where accordion players and groups from the surrounding area came and performed in an open-air theater. It was quite interesting to experience the festival; it was as much a social event as a performance - people were greeting friends and having lively conversations as the music played in the background. Everyone seemed happy and friendly, glad to socialize on the nice afternoon about 26-27 C.
Back at the apartment we had a light supper with plenty of vegetables and salad, plus some delicious home-made white wine that Ivan gave us. He also gave us a bottle of red wine, which is also excellent, nice flavor and bouquet, but mild and smooth. Ivan explained that many families make their own wine, and compete to produce the best. His was certainly one of the best!
Sat 6 Sep- discovering Kastav 2
Sat 6 Sep- after a breakfast of cereal, fruit and coffee we explored the town a little. It is a small town, fairly compact with a picturesque church on the top of the hill overlooking the countryside. Kastav is on a fairly high hill, about 400 meters (1200 feet) above the Adriatic, so we had nice views of the countryside in all directions. It did not take long to make a full circuit of the town. We were impressed by the cleanliness and lack of tourist influences. There is virtually no graffiti, most of the buildings are in good repair even though they may be hundreds of years old. Indeed, our apartment is part of the wall that surrounded the city several hundred years ago, though fortunately it has been very nicely renovated and is quite comfortable. There are very few souvenir shops; we know of only one; but there are two tourist information offices, two ATMs, and many restaurants and cafes, a laundry/dry cleaner, hairdresser, etc. This mix provides the real essentials without the distractions for visitors.
After our exploration we had a draft Ozujsko beer ($2/glass) in the Kastav Pub to refresh ourselves. We really enjoy draft beer in the warm weather (27-28 C) that we enjoyed today.
After our exploration we had a draft Ozujsko beer ($2/glass) in the Kastav Pub to refresh ourselves. We really enjoy draft beer in the warm weather (27-28 C) that we enjoyed today.
Fri 5 Sep- discovering Kastav 1
Fri 5 Sep- it was good to be able to sleep in and recover from our busy day yesterday. We found the local grocery store just around the corner from our apartment, and the fruit & vegetable store just across the street from it. So we stocked up on some of the fruit and vegetable foods we like as a change from the restaurant food. Although most of the labels were in Croatian, the fruit and vegetables were easily identified. We could often guess pretty well what were the items we wanted by the packaging or the picture on the label, and often there was the English name in small type somewhere.
We had lunch at Vidikovac to investigate the Croatian cuisine. Kiyomi tried Velebitsko beer, Stan had the Toceno. We shared 'punjena paprika sir' (grilled green pepper), 'lignji na zaru', 'blitva na Dalmatia' (Swiss chard with potato and garlic), 'onbul na vine', 'krompir na maslacu', for a total of $36. It was all very tasty and interesting, much was variations on foods we are familiar with.
The TV in the apartment gets lots of channels, so we could catch up on news with CNN, Sky news, BBC World, CNBC Europe, and Eurosport. Since the US Open tennis was being broadcast, we got to see some exciting matches.
We had lunch at Vidikovac to investigate the Croatian cuisine. Kiyomi tried Velebitsko beer, Stan had the Toceno. We shared 'punjena paprika sir' (grilled green pepper), 'lignji na zaru', 'blitva na Dalmatia' (Swiss chard with potato and garlic), 'onbul na vine', 'krompir na maslacu', for a total of $36. It was all very tasty and interesting, much was variations on foods we are familiar with.
The TV in the apartment gets lots of channels, so we could catch up on news with CNN, Sky news, BBC World, CNBC Europe, and Eurosport. Since the US Open tennis was being broadcast, we got to see some exciting matches.
Thu 4 Sep- to Croatia: Rijeka and Kastav
Thu 4 Sep- we got up at 4 am to catch the 6 am train to Rijeka. It is a 10+ hour trip, with a 45-minute stopover in Zagreb to change trains. About two hours from Rijeka, the conductor said everyone had to get off at the next stop, apparently something is wrong with the train or the tracks. We were loaded onto a very crowded bus, but fortunately got to Rijeka a little before the scheduled arrival.
Our apartment is owned by Mr. Drazen Srdoc; he arranged with his friend Iva to meet us at the station and take us to the apartment in Kastav. That was a real relief to us, to have a friendly face greet us and take us to the apartment door.
After we got settled and rested a bit, we met with Mr. Ivan Salamon, who had arranged our apartment, and Rajka, who had introduced us to Ivan when we were trying to arrange our stay. We had dinner of a selection of Croatian cuisine at Gostiona (Restaurant) Vidikovac, part-owned by Drazen. it is an upscale place with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, the islands, and Opatija (the Croatian Rivera). We asked Ivan to order an introduction to Croatian cuisine, the typical foods common in this area. The food included among other items, 'vino stolno' (a nice white wine), 'rafioli Vidikovac' (a kind of ravioli), 'fuzi s tartufima', 'morska palenta' (a kind of polenta), 'domaci kruh', tople maline sladul', palacinke cokolada', 'strudla', and 'medica' (an after-dinner cognac), all for about $64 for the four of us. While we ate, Ivan and Rajka gave us a brief history of Croatia and Kastav. Ivan had a large stack of information about Kastav, Rijeka, Opatija, the Kvarner region where we are, and about interesting places in Croatia, like Split, Zagreb, the various islands, the natural parks, and Dubrovnik.
Our apartment is owned by Mr. Drazen Srdoc; he arranged with his friend Iva to meet us at the station and take us to the apartment in Kastav. That was a real relief to us, to have a friendly face greet us and take us to the apartment door.
After we got settled and rested a bit, we met with Mr. Ivan Salamon, who had arranged our apartment, and Rajka, who had introduced us to Ivan when we were trying to arrange our stay. We had dinner of a selection of Croatian cuisine at Gostiona (Restaurant) Vidikovac, part-owned by Drazen. it is an upscale place with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, the islands, and Opatija (the Croatian Rivera). We asked Ivan to order an introduction to Croatian cuisine, the typical foods common in this area. The food included among other items, 'vino stolno' (a nice white wine), 'rafioli Vidikovac' (a kind of ravioli), 'fuzi s tartufima', 'morska palenta' (a kind of polenta), 'domaci kruh', tople maline sladul', palacinke cokolada', 'strudla', and 'medica' (an after-dinner cognac), all for about $64 for the four of us. While we ate, Ivan and Rajka gave us a brief history of Croatia and Kastav. Ivan had a large stack of information about Kastav, Rijeka, Opatija, the Kvarner region where we are, and about interesting places in Croatia, like Split, Zagreb, the various islands, the natural parks, and Dubrovnik.
Wed 3 Sep- Le Meridien and Budapest
Wed 3 Sep- after the breakfast buffet, we relaxed in the room, read the newspaper and worked the Internet until time for our afternoon walk. We walked over to the dock, watched a Dielman ship dock, then donated some of our books that we don't need any more to the ship. We walked over to a traditional Hungarian restaurant and had veal goulash with dumplings, mixed salad, and draft beer. Total was HUF 3500, about $24.
Kiyomi got a facial and stocked up on various cosmetics in case they are not available in Croatia where we'll be.
We again enjoyed a draft Dreher beer and traditional Hungarian beef goulash with noodles while listening to the trio playing jazz arrangements of popular tunes.
Kiyomi got a facial and stocked up on various cosmetics in case they are not available in Croatia where we'll be.
We again enjoyed a draft Dreher beer and traditional Hungarian beef goulash with noodles while listening to the trio playing jazz arrangements of popular tunes.
Tue 2 Sep- Le Meridien and Budapest
http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Tue 2 Sep- after the Le Meridien included breakfast buffet, we worked on Internet, email, read USA Today and generally relaxed.
For lunch, we went to a local Hungarian restaurant 'Strudel House' and had a mixed salad (HUF 1590), draft Bitburg beer (HUF 1620), and beefsteak Hungarian style (HUF 3990); total HUF 7200 (E32.7, about $48). The beef was like filet mignon, really delicious and tender, and the salad was very nice with an assortment of lettuce and vegetables. The beer was different from the Pilsner we've become used to, more acid and a stronger flavor, but still very good. Budapest is not a cheap city, especially in the tourist-oriented old town areas.
In the evening we walked around the old town, over to the Danube to admire once again the lights of the palace and castle across the river. We returned to the hotel and went to the bar, where we enjoyed draft Dreher beer and a salad while listening to the piano, string bass and drum trio playing jazz arrangements of popular tunes.
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Tue 2 Sep- after the Le Meridien included breakfast buffet, we worked on Internet, email, read USA Today and generally relaxed.
For lunch, we went to a local Hungarian restaurant 'Strudel House' and had a mixed salad (HUF 1590), draft Bitburg beer (HUF 1620), and beefsteak Hungarian style (HUF 3990); total HUF 7200 (E32.7, about $48). The beef was like filet mignon, really delicious and tender, and the salad was very nice with an assortment of lettuce and vegetables. The beer was different from the Pilsner we've become used to, more acid and a stronger flavor, but still very good. Budapest is not a cheap city, especially in the tourist-oriented old town areas.
In the evening we walked around the old town, over to the Danube to admire once again the lights of the palace and castle across the river. We returned to the hotel and went to the bar, where we enjoyed draft Dreher beer and a salad while listening to the piano, string bass and drum trio playing jazz arrangements of popular tunes.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Mon 1 Sep- Budapest Le Meridien, PT/INR
Mon 1 Sep- after a nice buffet breakfast, we disembarked and took a taxi to our Hotel Le Meridien in Budapest. Fortunately they had a room ready at 10 am, so we unpacked and rested a bit.
We had two mandatory items to accomplish: Stan's PT/INR test, and tickets from Budapest to Rijeka, Croatia. The concierge helped us with both. For the PT/INR test, it took less than 40 minutes from the time we left our hotel room at the Hotel Le Meridien. We spent a few minutes at the concierge's desk finding out where we could get the test done. He had a database, made a phone call and arranged everything. He gave us a map and showed us how to get to the lab. It was a short walk, about 5 minutes at most. A few minutes in line at the reception area, then a few minutes wait for the blood draw. We were done before noon, and told to return after 3 pm for the results. When we returned, the results were ready as promised. Cost was 2,700 Hungarian Forints, about $18.
Any patients who need PT/INR testing in Paris, Prague or Budapest should have minimum trouble, if my experiences are any guide.
While we were getting the test done, the concierge researched the train schedule and got the tickets for us - they were ready when we returned.
We went out looking for somewhere to eat, and spotted a Japanese Sushi restaurant. Kiyomi could not resist, so we had a plate of mixed sushi and a plate of California roll, and Hungarian beer to wash it down.
We rested a while in the huge room, then used the Internet connection to catch up on email, bills, photo uploads, etc. Later in the evening we enjoyed the piano, string bass and drum trio in the Meridien's bar with a glass of draft beer, a relaxing finish to the busy day.
We had two mandatory items to accomplish: Stan's PT/INR test, and tickets from Budapest to Rijeka, Croatia. The concierge helped us with both. For the PT/INR test, it took less than 40 minutes from the time we left our hotel room at the Hotel Le Meridien. We spent a few minutes at the concierge's desk finding out where we could get the test done. He had a database, made a phone call and arranged everything. He gave us a map and showed us how to get to the lab. It was a short walk, about 5 minutes at most. A few minutes in line at the reception area, then a few minutes wait for the blood draw. We were done before noon, and told to return after 3 pm for the results. When we returned, the results were ready as promised. Cost was 2,700 Hungarian Forints, about $18.
Any patients who need PT/INR testing in Paris, Prague or Budapest should have minimum trouble, if my experiences are any guide.
While we were getting the test done, the concierge researched the train schedule and got the tickets for us - they were ready when we returned.
We went out looking for somewhere to eat, and spotted a Japanese Sushi restaurant. Kiyomi could not resist, so we had a plate of mixed sushi and a plate of California roll, and Hungarian beer to wash it down.
We rested a while in the huge room, then used the Internet connection to catch up on email, bills, photo uploads, etc. Later in the evening we enjoyed the piano, string bass and drum trio in the Meridien's bar with a glass of draft beer, a relaxing finish to the busy day.
Sun 31 Aug- Budapest city tour
Sun 31 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we went for a Budapest city tour, where we went across the chain bridge, up to the palace and castle for a view of the river and city. Then we went to the Hero's Square, where previous rulers and war heroes of Hungary are remembered in statues. We passed the zoo and the spa area (apparently Budapest is famous for its spas and mineral water). We then went to St. Stephen's cathedral in old town, close to the ship and to Le Meridien where we'll stay tomorrow until Sep 4.
We had our usual salad for lunch, and decided to walk around Budapest some more. There are lots of upscale shops and restaurants (including several Japanese and Chinese, as well as Italian, Thai, Indian and Hungarian). The Natural Science Museum next to the docking area had very nice facade and architecture. Many of the buildings still have the very decorative facades from decades and centuries ago. The Hungarians seem glad to be out from Communist rule, and their economy seems to be improving. We see all the trappings of modern life: computers, cell phones, iPods, digital cameras and camcorders.
We had our usual salad for lunch, and decided to walk around Budapest some more. There are lots of upscale shops and restaurants (including several Japanese and Chinese, as well as Italian, Thai, Indian and Hungarian). The Natural Science Museum next to the docking area had very nice facade and architecture. Many of the buildings still have the very decorative facades from decades and centuries ago. The Hungarians seem glad to be out from Communist rule, and their economy seems to be improving. We see all the trappings of modern life: computers, cell phones, iPods, digital cameras and camcorders.
Sat 30 Aug- Bratislava, Slovakia
Sat 30 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we had a walking tour of Bratislava's old town, another interesting city from hundreds of years ago. We returned to the ship for our usual salad buffet lunch, then walked back to the town, up to the castle for a great view over the countryside, walked down to have a draft Zlaty Bazant Slovak beer, a very pleasant pilsner. We then walked back to the ship.
After the port talk about tomorrow's destination, Budapest, we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, shrimp cocktail, corn chowder with strips of ham, corn and honey, grilled salmon filet with mango cucumber relish on buttered leek, carrot and potato vegetables (Kiyomi) or whole wheat crepes with corn, bell pepper, zucchini, tomato and cheese filling (Stan), and chocolate cake with chocolate ice cream and whipped cream for dessert.
After dinner, the crew put on a show that had some very funny action and dialogue, and an action song that required great precision as each person told about what they would be if they weren't crew members.
After the port talk about tomorrow's destination, Budapest, we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, shrimp cocktail, corn chowder with strips of ham, corn and honey, grilled salmon filet with mango cucumber relish on buttered leek, carrot and potato vegetables (Kiyomi) or whole wheat crepes with corn, bell pepper, zucchini, tomato and cheese filling (Stan), and chocolate cake with chocolate ice cream and whipped cream for dessert.
After dinner, the crew put on a show that had some very funny action and dialogue, and an action song that required great precision as each person told about what they would be if they weren't crew members.
Fri 29 Aug- Spanish Riding School visit
Fri 29 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we headed back to Stephensplatz for the Spanish Riding School training session featuring the Lipizzaner stallions. It was not an actual performance, it was the riders putting the horses through their paces as an exercise and training session, but it was wonderful to see those graceful and beautiful horses exercising in the various gaits they use in the performances (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363974656_mQc62-M.jpg). After the show, we walked around a bit, had a Vienna coffee at a coffee house, and then headed back to the ship for lunch. We relaxed on the ship until dinner.
After the port talk about tomorrow's destination, Bratislava (capital of Slovakia), we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, phylo pastry stuffed with feta cheese ham and leek in curry, beef consomme, roast pork tenderloin in Savoy cabbage with caraway beer gravy with potato gratin and vegetables (Stan) or breaded eggplant stuffed with tomatoes and appenzeller cheese with baked potato and sour cream (Kiyomi), French apple pie with vanilla sauce and vanilla ice cream for dessert.
After the port talk about tomorrow's destination, Bratislava (capital of Slovakia), we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, phylo pastry stuffed with feta cheese ham and leek in curry, beef consomme, roast pork tenderloin in Savoy cabbage with caraway beer gravy with potato gratin and vegetables (Stan) or breaded eggplant stuffed with tomatoes and appenzeller cheese with baked potato and sour cream (Kiyomi), French apple pie with vanilla sauce and vanilla ice cream for dessert.
Fri 29 Aug- Spanish Riding School visit
Fri 29 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we headed back to Stephensplatz for the Spanish Riding School training session featuring the Lipizzaner stallions. It was not an actual performance, it was the riders putting the horses through their paces as an exercise and training session, but it was wonderful to see those graceful and beautiful horses exercising in the various gaits they use in the performances (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363974656_mQc62-M.jpg). After the show, we walked around a bit, had a Vienna coffee at a coffee house, and then headed back to the ship for lunch. We relaxed on the ship until dinner.
After the port talk about tomorrow's destination, Bratislava (capital of Slovakia), we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, phylo pastry stuffed with feta cheese ham and leek in curry, beef consomme, roast pork tenderloin in Savoy cabbage with caraway beer gravy with potato gratin and vegetables (Stan) or breaded eggplant stuffed with tomatoes and appenzeller cheese with baked potato and sour cream (Kiyomi), French apple pie with vanilla sauce and vanilla ice cream for dessert.
After the port talk about tomorrow's destination, Bratislava (capital of Slovakia), we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, phylo pastry stuffed with feta cheese ham and leek in curry, beef consomme, roast pork tenderloin in Savoy cabbage with caraway beer gravy with potato gratin and vegetables (Stan) or breaded eggplant stuffed with tomatoes and appenzeller cheese with baked potato and sour cream (Kiyomi), French apple pie with vanilla sauce and vanilla ice cream for dessert.
Thu 28 Aug- Vienna, Strauss-Mozart concert
Thu 28 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we went for the bus and walking tour of Vienna. The bus took about a half-hour to go the distance the Metro covers in about 5 minutes, but the guide kept our attention with numerous anecdotes and history of Vienna. The walk introduced us to St. Stephen's cathedral, the 'plague column', Michael's Gate, some Lipizzaner stallions going into the Spanish Riding School (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363974629_EJMve-M.jpg); by bus we saw the huge Ferris wheel from 1899 in the amusement park, got to walk through the grounds of one of the many palaces and its garden.
Back on the ship we had a nice salad from the buffet. We took the Metro back to Stephenplatz and walked around town for several hours, picking up tickets to the Spanish Riding School training session tomorrow, and a concert tonight by the Konzertburo der Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde in Wein at the Grosser Musikvereinssaal.
After the port talk, we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, melon wrapped with ham, cream of carrot soup, breaded mushrooms stuffed with feta cheese on mixed vegetables (Stan) or grilled butter fish on creamy leek and crispy potato rosti with tomato risotto fennel and lemon saffron sauce (Kiyomi), Swedish pancake filled with chocolate pastry cream for dessert.
We took the Metro to Karlsplatz, and headed for the concert hall on the brochure. When we arrived, we were told the venue had changed, so we walked back to just about where we got off the Metro for the actual venue. It was a Johann Strauss and Mozart concert by the Wiener Hofburg Orchestra, with five operatic soloists. It was a lively, upbeat program, marches, waltzes, cheerful arias and concluding with 'The Beautiful Blue Danube'. Our seats in the balcony loge gave us a good view of the orchestra (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363974652_qaVYo-Ti.jpg), and the acoustics were quite nice. We really enjoyed the program.
Back on the ship we had a nice salad from the buffet. We took the Metro back to Stephenplatz and walked around town for several hours, picking up tickets to the Spanish Riding School training session tomorrow, and a concert tonight by the Konzertburo der Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde in Wein at the Grosser Musikvereinssaal.
After the port talk, we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, melon wrapped with ham, cream of carrot soup, breaded mushrooms stuffed with feta cheese on mixed vegetables (Stan) or grilled butter fish on creamy leek and crispy potato rosti with tomato risotto fennel and lemon saffron sauce (Kiyomi), Swedish pancake filled with chocolate pastry cream for dessert.
We took the Metro to Karlsplatz, and headed for the concert hall on the brochure. When we arrived, we were told the venue had changed, so we walked back to just about where we got off the Metro for the actual venue. It was a Johann Strauss and Mozart concert by the Wiener Hofburg Orchestra, with five operatic soloists. It was a lively, upbeat program, marches, waltzes, cheerful arias and concluding with 'The Beautiful Blue Danube'. Our seats in the balcony loge gave us a good view of the orchestra (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363974652_qaVYo-Ti.jpg), and the acoustics were quite nice. We really enjoyed the program.
Wed 27 Aug- Melk, Danube Wachau Valley
Wed 27 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we went on a walk into Melk, famous for its abbey. The town is a 15-minute walk down a tree-lined road, and the weather was a very pleasant 20-21 C with a nice gentle breeze. The town itself was very nice. There was a farmer's market on a pedestrian-only street where local merchants sold a variety of goods, such as cheese, meat, clothes, alcoholic beverages, vegetables, fruits, etc.
Back onboard, we had mixed green salad from the buffet for lunch. It's difficult to avoid over-eating, with the huge selection available at breakfast and lunch, and then the excellent dinner.
The ship set sail for the Wachau Valley, one of the prettiest sections of the Danube. We saw numerous small pretty towns, castles on the hills, lots of vineyards and occasionally, nude sunbathers.
After the port talk about tomorrow's destination, Vienna, we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, ham-wrapped cheese rolls with marinated asparagus, cream of roasted garlic soup, grilled mixed lamb platter (Stan) or breaded filet of Atlantic catfish with lemon and tartar sauce with potato, creamy spinach and salcify (Kiyomi), cheese cake with ice cream for dessert.
Back onboard, we had mixed green salad from the buffet for lunch. It's difficult to avoid over-eating, with the huge selection available at breakfast and lunch, and then the excellent dinner.
The ship set sail for the Wachau Valley, one of the prettiest sections of the Danube. We saw numerous small pretty towns, castles on the hills, lots of vineyards and occasionally, nude sunbathers.
After the port talk about tomorrow's destination, Vienna, we had another great dinner: choice of house wine, ham-wrapped cheese rolls with marinated asparagus, cream of roasted garlic soup, grilled mixed lamb platter (Stan) or breaded filet of Atlantic catfish with lemon and tartar sauce with potato, creamy spinach and salcify (Kiyomi), cheese cake with ice cream for dessert.
Tue 26 Aug- Salzburg
Tue 26 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we departed on the optional 2.5 hour trip to Salzburg, first driving through the Austrian countryside approaching the Alps. We stopped by a beautiful scenic spot overlooking Mondsee (Moon Lake, shaped like a half-moon) for photo op and 'stretch our legs'.
In Salzburg, the weather was perfect, a cool 20-21 C, and sunny. We had a walking tour of the old town, where we were told the history and interesting stories of the town. The tour group had lunch at a local restaurant, as an example of Austrian cuisine, which was very good, and apple strudel for dessert. After the tour and lunch, we walked around admiring the architecture, stopped by a garden (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363970778_H8Qih-M.jpg) the cute and interesting facades, and noticing it was mostly tourist attractions: restaurants, beer gardens, souvenir shops of all kinds (including Christmas decorations) and upscale brand-name stores. We enjoyed a draft beer at a beer garden, and then it was time to return to the ship. We found a coffee machine that makes several varieties of good coffee, chocolate, or provides hot water for the large tea selection, that is available 24/7 at no cost - a great discovery.
Then for dinner: choice of house wine, 'dolmadaikas' (stuffed grape leaves with tzatziki), consomme of beef with 'schinkenchoeberll', boiled cap of rump with horseradish sauce, with creamy spinach and potatoes (Stan) or pan fried tilapia fillet with tomato and white wine sauce on carrot mousseline and saffron rice, frozen chocolate mousse stuffed with pistachio marzipan covered with chocolate ganache.
After dinner, we went for a guided walking tour into the old town of Linz, where we saw yet another large column erected by the survivors of the Black Plague, thanking God for their fortune in escaping death. It seems like there is a similar column in every town.
In Salzburg, the weather was perfect, a cool 20-21 C, and sunny. We had a walking tour of the old town, where we were told the history and interesting stories of the town. The tour group had lunch at a local restaurant, as an example of Austrian cuisine, which was very good, and apple strudel for dessert. After the tour and lunch, we walked around admiring the architecture, stopped by a garden (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363970778_H8Qih-M.jpg) the cute and interesting facades, and noticing it was mostly tourist attractions: restaurants, beer gardens, souvenir shops of all kinds (including Christmas decorations) and upscale brand-name stores. We enjoyed a draft beer at a beer garden, and then it was time to return to the ship. We found a coffee machine that makes several varieties of good coffee, chocolate, or provides hot water for the large tea selection, that is available 24/7 at no cost - a great discovery.
Then for dinner: choice of house wine, 'dolmadaikas' (stuffed grape leaves with tzatziki), consomme of beef with 'schinkenchoeberll', boiled cap of rump with horseradish sauce, with creamy spinach and potatoes (Stan) or pan fried tilapia fillet with tomato and white wine sauce on carrot mousseline and saffron rice, frozen chocolate mousse stuffed with pistachio marzipan covered with chocolate ganache.
After dinner, we went for a guided walking tour into the old town of Linz, where we saw yet another large column erected by the survivors of the Black Plague, thanking God for their fortune in escaping death. It seems like there is a similar column in every town.
Mon 25 Aug- Cesky Krumlov, Linz, MS River Adagio
Mon 25 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we departed by bus to Cesky Krumlov, an old medieval town in southern Czech Republic unchanged for hundreds of years, with winding cobblestone roads, and imposing 13th Century Krumlovsky Zamek (the castle), with an enjoyable garden (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363980986_vTDya-M.jpg) and wonderful views over the town (http://hutchings.smugmug.com/photos/363980955_8cVUb-M.jpg). We had lunch at a local home for a traditional Czech meal: potato soup, broiled chicken with potatoes, and a cake dessert accompanied by coffee. Our hostess was too busy serving to really talk, but was very gracious and hospitable.
Then we continued on to our cruise ship at Linz (Austria) on the Danube. When we arrived and settled in the GCT's ship MS River Adagio. The ship holds about 150 people, divided into 4 groups for bus, and each with a tour director. Our director is Erika, a native of Budapest, who took good care of us. Our room is pretty small, but big enough for a week or so. There is a large window to view the river, and a table between the beds that fold up when not in use.
We were welcomed by the captain and crew with a champagne toast and introductions to the crew. That was followed by the nightly 'port talk' (the briefing of the next day's activities), and then the Captain's welcome aboard dinner: roasted duck salad with mango and raspberry vinaigrette, sauteed prawns with mashed and crisp potatoes, grilled veal loin with green beans and onion pie (Kiyomi) or tortellini stuffed with 'gorgonzola e nocci' on creamy spinach with tomato filled with assorted vegetables (Stan), creme brulee with fresh fruit, accompanied by complimentary house wine (white or red).
Then we continued on to our cruise ship at Linz (Austria) on the Danube. When we arrived and settled in the GCT's ship MS River Adagio. The ship holds about 150 people, divided into 4 groups for bus, and each with a tour director. Our director is Erika, a native of Budapest, who took good care of us. Our room is pretty small, but big enough for a week or so. There is a large window to view the river, and a table between the beds that fold up when not in use.
We were welcomed by the captain and crew with a champagne toast and introductions to the crew. That was followed by the nightly 'port talk' (the briefing of the next day's activities), and then the Captain's welcome aboard dinner: roasted duck salad with mango and raspberry vinaigrette, sauteed prawns with mashed and crisp potatoes, grilled veal loin with green beans and onion pie (Kiyomi) or tortellini stuffed with 'gorgonzola e nocci' on creamy spinach with tomato filled with assorted vegetables (Stan), creme brulee with fresh fruit, accompanied by complimentary house wine (white or red).
Sun 24 Aug- Prague departure eve
http://stanhutchings.blogspot.com/ (this information as a blog)
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Sun 24 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we spent some time getting ready for our departure tomorrow, and then took a walk across the street to a Chinese restaurant, where we had an enjoyable lunch. Back at the hotel, we continued with our preparations and relaxing.
http://hutchings.smugmug.com/ (photos)
Sun 24 Aug- after breakfast buffet, we spent some time getting ready for our departure tomorrow, and then took a walk across the street to a Chinese restaurant, where we had an enjoyable lunch. Back at the hotel, we continued with our preparations and relaxing.
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